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Thread: Replacing Both CV Joints ?

  1. #1
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    Wrench Replacing Both CV Joints ?

    I now get quite a nasty crunching and binding from the drivers CV joint when turning in 4wd. Both CV joints need replacing. I have done a few searches but nothing has come up (which is weird) its all about CV boot changes. Has anyone done this?

    I am going to do the work over Easter but I need to order the parts before hand. Are there any special tools? Anyone got a walk through, lol !

    Are these the parts I need???

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CV-JOINT-KIT-I...item5ad4d28ef1

    Thanks guys!
    Speed Thrills, Boredom Kills!!

  2. #2
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    Only special tool I can think of is snap ring pliers to take the ring off inside the axle "tube". After you get everything off and have a little slack to work with you will need to remove the snap ring before you can slide the axle out.

    As far as I know there is one CV that is made aftermarket and is a descent price, but the other side is only from Isuzu or a junkyard VX. Please someone clarify if I am right about that. If both CV's are made aftermarket please let me know where I can find them. I think I am running out of junkyard CV's and the Isuzu charges WAY too much for the new one.
    2001 Ironman Daily Driver... 3.5" suspension lift (OME912 springs and 1" spring spacer), ball joint flip, 1.5" front diff. drop, 33"x12.5 TrXus MT, 16x10 Eagle Alloy rims, Interceptor, PV muffler, K&N air filter, Alpine Supercharger, Bilstein shocks, and some trimming.

    2000 Ironman Project LS-1 VX... very slow progress but someday....... ohhhhh someday......

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by AlaskaVX View Post
    Only special tool I can think of is snap ring pliers to take the ring off inside the axle "tube". .
    Cool man, thanks! I got one of those to change to manual hubs

  4. #4
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    I just swapped mine over the weekend while installing the locker. I got the ones off of ebay. Another item you might need will be a steel bar and a large random sized socket. The CV will come with a bolt. It is designed to be threaded into the CV so you can pull the CV out far enough to get the c clip back in. Thread the bolt through a hole in the large steel bar, use the socket as a space to pry against as you tighten the bolt. It is a TIGHT fit. I thought I was going to break something. I got the two CVs for 120 USD shipped. They were brand new. Seem decent enough.

    I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them.
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  5. #5
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    iirc dont the 97 trooper cvs fit?

    i heard something like stock are much stronger than aftermarket ( well from some isuzu guys over here changing there ones on there mu's)

  6. #6
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  7. #7
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    CR,

    Go to the download section & look at the instructions for the diff drop installation. That should contain all you need to know for the CV swap.

    Tom

    BTW, BritVX picked up his diff drops last week so if y'all live near each other, work together since the extra hands can be VERY helpful.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

    Put a smiley after you say that Bub.

  8. #8
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    I may be being a bit thick but can't find the download ???

  9. #9
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    Talking

    Quote Originally Posted by crotchrocket View Post
    I may be being a bit thick but can't find the download ???
    Dude...seriously.........

    http://www.vehicross.info/modules.php?name=Downloads

  10. #10
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    Red face Sorry Mate...

    A bit of a misunderstanding on my part...

    Now that I re-read, I think Tom meant "how to's", not "downloads"

    Here's what he was talkin' about...

    http://www.vehicross.info/modules.ph...warticle&id=49

    This is the other article mentioned...

    http://www.vehicross.info/modules.ph...warticle&id=48

  11. #11
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    My bad, it's in the how2 section:

    http://www.vehicross.info/modules.ph...c&daysprune=-1

    You'll probably need these 3: bearing repack, diff drop, CV boot install

    You need to decide before you start: are you replacing the entire half shaft including the CV outer races (green cups)?

    If you answered yes, then you'll be breaking down the bearings & you'll prolly want Kenny's write-up on that. You'll also need the diff drop instructions to pull the axles from the differential.

    If you can re-use the outer races, then your job will be much easier & you can just use the CV boot replacement instructions.

    When my CVs went Tango Uniform, the axle shop was able to machine the races whilst mounted so they didn't have to go through removing the differential brackets.

    BTW, thanx Ldub for making sure that the whole WORLD knows that I suffer from brain farts on occasion!!! (actually, I was just having a Handee moment).
    Last edited by tom4bren : 03/23/2010 at 07:05 AM

  12. #12
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    lol

    just kiddin, Thanks for the help! Looks like quite a job, might give the garage a call again to see how much they want. They did say it was just the outer joints that need replacing
    Last edited by crotchrocket : 03/23/2010 at 07:17 AM

  13. #13
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    The only thing that I had extreme difficulty with was the ball joints on the center link. They were designed with a taper that is entirely too shallow. They are extremely difficult to remove (so much so that we trashed one on CSTYLES & had to replace his center link). Make sure that liberal use of anti-sieze is used when they are re-installed.

    Tom

  14. #14
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    Talking

    Quote Originally Posted by tom4bren View Post
    BTW, thanx Ldub for making sure that the whole WORLD knows that I suffer from brain farts on occasion!!! (actually, I was just having a Handee moment).
    I don't think that many people in Bangladesh read VXinfo...

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ldub View Post
    I don't think that many people in Bangladesh read VXinfo...
    You'd be suprised. I got a PM from a guy there the other day. It said:

    jkferiu wiucxm wodl wohdshj kjlj grosd.

    That roughly translates to: 'The offset looks great on your Proton'

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