Alright, day two of the locker saga. I have now spent about 14 hours working on this POS. Couple hours just getting cotter pins out. Lessons learned, to remove the CV joint, there is a retaining ring just inside the "green" cup that holds the balls and cup assembly. Just use a knife and pop it out. You have to remove the inner boot to do this. Had I known that, I never would have broken the axle seal, and saved a few hours of labor. To date, I have now replaced drivers side upper ball joint, lower ball joint, maybe a sway bar tie rod end, front axle seal.
To make matters worse, my locker didn't fit. Requires .006 in min clearance between collar and pinion shaft. I ended up sanding down to 0.0065 one side and 0.004 on the other. That took quite a while.
Over all gap after assemble" .142ish, min required .145. Better be close enough. If anything, it won't unlock, which is fine, cause I will be running 2wd high via manual hubs anyway.
I didn't take pics, but it wouldn't be good anyway, a lot of cussing and screaming and running to parts stores. Now I am paying storage while the VX sits on the lift at the Hobby Shop. I should finish tuesday evening. Right now, CVs are in, diff mounted, full of Royal Purple. Good news, the cvs from Ebay fit just fine. Now I have my OEM set as spares. they were in good shape, boots were rough, but whole, and grease looked great.



Reply With Quote


Thanks guys, that makes sense. I've been in a 4x4 with a locked rear and felt how difficult it was turning, I assume that a locked front would be worse and almost impossible to drive on city streets.










