compression Test Results

[Moncha]

So what you are saying I need to do is

1. remove the other head YES
2. remove all 4 cams YES
3. remove all 24 valves YES
4. remove all guides YES
5. remove all seats YES
6. get both heads skimmed YES
7. buy new valves, guides, seats and headbolts
8. rebuild both heads YES
9. buy complete gasket kit YES
10. rebuild engine Maybe

Surly if I am going to go that far it would make sense to drop the bottom off the engine and replace the piston rings and main engine bearings.
******Then I would have a new engine******

The heads, go without question, do them all and do them right or you are headed for another failure. The weak point in the head, and block is where the center cylinder meets up with the two outer cylinders, as there is a lack of water jacket between them. The engineers are relying on convection to keep it reasonably cool but when there is an overheat, those valves will be the victims for sure. The valves, especially the exhaust, rely on contact with the seat to cool by convection, in this case, that valve, whether it was a weak spring, guide galling, or gross mal-adjustment, stuck open, causing hot gases to constantly blow by, thus overheating the valve, thus burning it (Like Roy said) then causing the tell-tale 45deg notch break.

Depending on what your low end looks like. From the pics, it is quite impressive that you still have crosshatching on the piston cylinders after that many miles/kms. If there was an overheating situation, then there would be quite a bit of crap floating in the oil (however microscopically) so the bearings, rods and mains, could have some wear or galling. You won't know unless you look. If it looks good and clearances are in range than you could get by without. But........

[lasturbo]

Did the burnt valve chunk that is missing disintigrated cuz I did not see any damage to the piston and wall in the pics?