To answer some questions or confusion earlier in this thread, you don't have to crank the piss out of your torsion bars to lift your VX. You can re-index the bars so they don't get overstressed from being cranked on. You simply uncrank the bars with the VX supported on jackstands, counting the turns it takes until they are unloaded. Then you remove the bolts on the brackets holding the bars to the A-arms. This is a good time to index mark both the side of the brackets and torsion bars for later so you have a reference. You then pull the torsion bars to the rear and allow the A-arms to come down to the position you want them to sit at for your desired tires/ride height. Remove the brackets from the bars and count how many splines you have to rotate them in order to line up again with the holes on the A-arms. You reinstall everything and let the VX down from the stands. It will likely squat onto the tires, or the tires will be close to the wheel well, this is when you start cranking for your desired springiness and stiffness. Another thing to remember while you're doing all this is that the thinner (lower profile) bumpstops you put in, the lower your A-arms can droop, and as a result, the higher your VX can be lifted. The bumpstops for the front are under the upper A-arm. Doing this indexing mod will place less stress on your torsion bars making them last longer, retain their springiness longer and keep your ride height correct longer. It will also reduce the shock loads from suspension cycling offroad so you don't break them while wheeling.