My maxed out suspension lift :)

[WormGod]

Nice, but I HATE wheel well. Get some more rubber in there to cover those eye-sores.

[Y33TREKker]

So do you now have to get clearance from the tower before entering local airspace?

Looks pretty awesome LB.

[tom4bren]

Nice Ryan - lookin good - now if you would just get some rims with the PROPER offset.

[Mile High VX]

Mighty fine sir...

[nfpgasmask]

Yes....I like....

Bart

[LittleBeast]

How do you get it sitting so level? I have the 912's and mine has a slightly nose down stance

Where can I get me some of them spacers?

Did you have any problems with brake pipes or shock travel etc?

Torsion bars are cranked quite a bit, and I have the diff drop which helps CV angles.

As Larry said the spacers are available at Independent4x , as for brake lines, yes I have the steel braided extended brake line kit from Independent4x or I could not have done this at all. Shock travel is limiting my down travel right now by about 4-5" right now, and since I already extended my bumpstops on the rear I will be considering some new shocks in the rear possibly.

Tools are your friend...

15 buck$ & your problem is solved...

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=3980

Haha, that would makes things easier, what is the fun in that? Yeah if I have to remove them I will pick that up

I have mine raised 14 turns on the front (about 3", maybe more) and developed a nasty grind in the CV joint on tight turns in 4WD so i need to let it back down again, diff drop is a good idea but counter productive in trying to get ground clearance for me as im not going larger on the tyres any time soon.

I thought the same thing about the diff drop loosing ground clearance and all, but really you are not loosing any ground clearance if you modify the cross member. I just chose to put the cross member extension brackets on there until I decide on a local welder to do the mod to the cross member so I won't loose any ground clearance at all.

Did you have to creank the t-bars any more or is that still the same from your initial lift?

Only problem is the rear axle is creeping too far forward. Ldub and I were talking about that the other day. Gonna need some longer links to center the wheel in the well to get maximum clearance.

I did not do anything to the torsion bars this time around, still the same from the initial lift.

I was thinking the same thing and already started a thread about the options for moving the rear axle back just a little:
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=17430

What about a noise from joint? I lifted my VX aprox 2" and have bad noise betwen 100 and 120 km/h.

As has been discussed before a lot of these weird noises can be addressed. Mine has gone away as the tires wear more even and I played around with driveline angles by playing around with the torsion bar crank. Seems that we need a little tilt forward with the rear slightly higher than the front to get rid of the whine. Mine has gone away over time.

Nice, but I HATE wheel well. Get some more rubber in there to cover those eye-sores.

They are coming soon, I am trying to find something I like that is around 35" x 13.5" or so.

So you installed new CV drop brackets, and now you're back to a full torsion crank ??

I don't know about "full" I still have some room to go up, and I could always just reindex them, but yeah I have the CV drop brackets and a pretty mean torsion crank on the front to go along with the 4.77 gears.

So do you now have to get clearance from the tower before entering local airspace?

Actually now my antenna hits the garage on the way out, I still haven't gotten used to that Also it is slightly taller to get into now, and I cannot see out of the back window as nicely as I used to, but my modified higher rear view mirror mount still is helping with that. Also braking seems more responsive for some odd reason, and it seems to take speed bumps better now.

[pbkid]

hey, if you decide you want someone to take those terra-grapplers off your hands you can send em out here to colorado

just playing- ride looks great!

[AlaskaVX]

I will pray for your CV's if you pray for mine LOL.

I have the OME 912's, 1" spring spacers, 1.5" drop brackets, 33" tires and I can't keep a CV around for more than 6 months. I think I am going to end up dropping the diff another 1". The ground clearance up front is still WAY more than enough when you consider your rear axle has to go over whatever your front did.

[Marlin]

Hmmm, I must be lucky. I cranked the torsion bar as far as I could without reindexing the bolts. I have the 919s in the rear. Been 1 year, I have wheeled it and mudded it, original CVs and boots as far as I can tell. No problems so far!!!! (Fingers crossed)

[Ascinder]

To answer some questions or confusion earlier in this thread, you don't have to crank the piss out of your torsion bars to lift your VX. You can re-index the bars so they don't get overstressed from being cranked on. You simply uncrank the bars with the VX supported on jackstands, counting the turns it takes until they are unloaded. Then you remove the bolts on the brackets holding the bars to the A-arms. This is a good time to index mark both the side of the brackets and torsion bars for later so you have a reference. You then pull the torsion bars to the rear and allow the A-arms to come down to the position you want them to sit at for your desired tires/ride height. Remove the brackets from the bars and count how many splines you have to rotate them in order to line up again with the holes on the A-arms. You reinstall everything and let the VX down from the stands. It will likely squat onto the tires, or the tires will be close to the wheel well, this is when you start cranking for your desired springiness and stiffness. Another thing to remember while you're doing all this is that the thinner (lower profile) bumpstops you put in, the lower your A-arms can droop, and as a result, the higher your VX can be lifted. The bumpstops for the front are under the upper A-arm. Doing this indexing mod will place less stress on your torsion bars making them last longer, retain their springiness longer and keep your ride height correct longer. It will also reduce the shock loads from suspension cycling offroad so you don't break them while wheeling.