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Thread: I got the bug!

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by 89Vette View Post
    Not necessarily IMO. Cherokees only weigh about 3000lbs. I found where VX's top the scales around 3900lbs! WTF! Geez, how are they that heavy? Consider power-to-weight ratio (since the 4.0L is similar to the 3.5L in power) by looking at a weight difference of almost 1000lbs, it doesn't sound like a VX could "keep up". IOW, I bet a Jeep would run circles aroung a VX on the street. (Make sure you understand I'm not criticizing the VX here, just pointing out the obvious difference -- on paper).
    More digging...I found a site that provided 0-60mph times. For whatever reason, the VX's are 1-2 seconds faster than Cherokees. Hmmmmm.....

    I guess body shape (drag), and gearing might be better on the VX. Still doesn't seem right!
    Last edited by 89Vette : 02/21/2010 at 11:17 PM

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by VX KAT View Post
    MPG is usually around 13-16 mpg.

    p.s...thought of starting a kind of "check list" for potential buyers to ask sellers. I'll start this in another thread too. Please add on everybody to make the list better....

    ~electric windows work properly or bind?
    ~window regulator /motor been replaced?
    ~any oil consumption?
    ~chrome wheels peeling?
    ~Any ABS light problems?
    ~OEM CD player still work correctly or ERR3 code?
    ~brand & model of tires & approx tread remaining
    ~any alignment issues?
    ~timing belt changed?
    ~original OEM brake pads or replacements?
    ~any service history records?
    ~last time & what fluids have been changed?
    ~what type of fluids (synthetic oil or regular, motor oil, diff, tranny, transf case)?
    ~how long have you owned it?
    ~Where has the care resided over it's lifetime?
    ~any known repairs?
    ~any fluids dripping, ever?
    ~ever taken off road?
    ~any problems with TOD?
    ~any extra parts on hand?
    Considering weight, I guess I know why they don't get better mpg. Any obvious places to remove weight?

    Also, nice overall explanation and list for a buyer. Thanks VX Kat!

    Since you don't have to lock front hubs (with TOD), why would this be listed as an upgrade on the recent Proton for sale?

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by 89Vette View Post
    Considering weight, I guess I know why they don't get better mpg. Any obvious places to remove weight?

    Also, nice overall explanation and list for a buyer. Thanks VX Kat!

    Since you don't have to lock front hubs (with TOD), why would this be listed as an upgrade on the recent Proton for sale?
    I believe you're referring to "crossman"s Proton. I "believe" he and a few others (travelin2) have done the AISIN hubs so they CAN run in 2wd and be towed. (Crossman used to tow his Proton behind motorhome). Guys help me out here.
    Travelin2 just did some major mods to tow his behind his motorhome too.

    One thing I forgot to mention...the OEM shocks are KYBs with reservoirs, which I believe made it the only production car to ever have reservoir shocks as OEM (read that somewhere). These shocks are very high end (around $200 each) and give it tremendous off road capabilities. HOWEVER, many of us have found the kidney jarring ride on rough roads (like dirt/gravel) to be just too much, and many have swapped out for the Rancho XL9000 with the 9 way adjustments (me included). It makes the ride oh so much more civilized on my dirt road here in the boonies where I live. ON road is no problem with the OEM shocks.

    To reduce weight...about the only thing I think ya can do is remove the 65lb back seat ...no seriously, I can't recall anyone mentioning anything. Remember I said, yer not gonna burn any rubber with this truck, but it moves pretty dang good despite being 2 tons!!
    VX KAT
    ....the adventure BEGINS ANEW! ...2015......
    Remember that life is not measured in the breaths you take, but rather in the moments that take your breath away.

  4. #19
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    Oh yeah, I forgot to ask about shocks!

    I do remember reading that the VX used a unique shock setup. Are you saying any "normal" shock will mount on these?

    Shocks were "one" of the parts I was concerned about them becoming obsolete.

    Have people found any improvement (power or mpg) with larger or smaller tires/wheels? Sometimes smaller tires will improve torque. Actually, the diameter seems (looks) fairly large for the timeframe of manufacter.

    (And, thanks for the guess (?) on releaseable hubs.)

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cobrajet View Post
    Hmmm...
    Name's Gregg,
    Restored a musclecar,
    Only wants a sporty 2-dr SUV,
    Is mechanically inclined.

    I think you're me from an alternate dimension.

    Finding the "right" VX is the hard part. Mileage shouldn't be the biggest factor. Mine has just over 120k miles, and anybody who has seen it can tell you it is mint. I've had zero oil consumption, and no major mechanical issues. Take your time, there is probably a pristine gem in someone's garage just waiting for you.
    Where? Where? I don't see it yet!

    FWIW, I am from an alternate universe. But, I'm pretty sure that's different than "two nanners in a peel"! I'm from the planet Obsession -- near the Corvetron and Isuzu sector.

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by rowhard View Post
    Ldub, where do you come up with these crazy picture's
    lol he works hard at his job......
    Last edited by Moncha : 02/22/2010 at 10:09 AM Reason: Fixed quote
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]...

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by VX KAT View Post
    OK first it was PK in my head, now it must be Dub, OMG somebody save me!!!! AAAAHHHH!!!!! Two nutz in a pod? No,, that would be T4B...

    I know what it is!....two nanners in a peel....

    Sorry vette, you've got lots of reading for any of this to make sense......
    Love U 2 KAT

    Vette,

    The weight on the VX is prolly because of the full boxed frame. You're not gonna shave any significant weight off of a VX unless you REALLY think outsid the box - like tearing it all the way down and replace the frame with a custom built aluminum frame (which would be even stiffer and more prone to cracking). The bottom line is: don't get the VX if you want an economical car.

    As far as parts availability - some may be hard to find but if you're diligent and willing to put in the time, you'll be able to keep a VX operational for another 10 years without much problem. The primary concern with parts availability is if you are ever in an accident; the insurance company will probably total the VX even if you don't think it should be. There have been numerous examples of that in recent months.

    The locking hubs were mainly put on by certain members who are trying to improve gas mileage/decrease front end wear/set up for towing. There won't be any performance benefits (unless you like doing donuts in snowy parking lots).

    If you REALLY want to get hooked on the VX, go to the Download Section here on the forum. We put together a digital picture frame for Moncha back at Christmas. It's a zip file of about 700 pictures of members VX's. It'll take about an hour to look through them all.

    BTW - I've seen the other Gregg's Proton. It is mint & very impressive. He & rickshaw have the cleanest rigs of any on the forum.

    Don't be afraid to shop for a VX from a distance. I got mine from MO & live in VA. You should be able to get one of our members to check out any that you find & let you know if it's worth it. It only cost about $1K to have mine delivered.

    Tom
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

    Put a smiley after you say that Bub.

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by 89Vette View Post
    Oh yeah, I forgot to ask about shocks!

    I do remember reading that the VX used a unique shock setup. Are you saying any "normal" shock will mount on these?

    Shocks were "one" of the parts I was concerned about them becoming obsolete.

    Have people found any improvement (power or mpg) with larger or smaller tires/wheels? Sometimes smaller tires will improve torque. Actually, the diameter seems (looks) fairly large for the timeframe of manufacter.

    (And, thanks for the guess (?) on releaseable hubs.)
    The shocks ARE replaceable with several conventional shocks, no problem at all. Bilstein, Ranchos come to mind. There's also a guy (Bruce something) that rebuilds the OEM ones for about $500 total.

    I can't think of a single owner here that has put smaller tires on...I think somebody said 255/55-18s were a tad smaller, nothing significant, and not going to really affect MPG as the OEMs weighed 34 lbs, and just about anything else weighs more than that.

    T4B addressed the releasable hubs.

    Think you really need to see one in person soon, so you can pull all this info together in your head. I will mention again, if MPG is a big concern, this is NOT the vehicle for you. You'll just be frustrated.

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by VX KAT View Post
    I will mention again, if MPG is a big concern, this is NOT the vehicle for you. You'll just be frustrated.
    That said, my friend's g/f just picked up a Hummer H3, and they thought my mileage was "pretty good." If I figure mine just based on odometer and fuel, it goes to around 17. I think if you add in the extra inches I have in my tires, it's closer to 19. That's only a couple off what I get in my 2003 Ford Escape...

  10. #25
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    yeah, I know what ya mean, my big bimmer got 12, so my VX is "pretty good" too

    Since a lot of this thread has turned to MPG.... a few months ago I noticed "Knight7" had a little "fuelly" logo in his sig line. I went to that site and it's a place you can keep track of your fill ups, gallons, and MPG. Shows a bar & line graph too. Can make notes on each fill up too. Kinda fun. I've been doin' it just to see if the full skid plates & roof rack weight /aero made any difference.
    www.fuelly.com
    http://www.fuelly.com/driver/vxkat/vehicross

  11. #26
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    Are you sayin that your 'nice rack' ain't aerodynamic??? It makes one wonder.

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by tom4bren View Post
    Are you sayin that your 'nice rack' ain't aerodynamic??? It makes one wonder.
    .... well of course dey R, you nut!...both of dem are!

  13. #28
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    Tom do you need a pic to verify how aerodynamic...?

    Strange how 75% of the threads where VX KAT is involved we end up talking about racks. What up with that?

    OK to get this train back on the tracks...

    Quote Originally Posted by 89Vette
    Last night, I just found where VX's top the scales around 3900lbs! WTF! How is it that heavy?
    Because it's built like a brick sh*thouse, that's how.

    Isn't is smaller than a Grand Cherokee?
    Yup - and that's a major drawback if you have a lot of stuff or people to haul.

    Consider power-to-weight ratio .... a Jeep would run circles around a VX on the street.
    If you just consider the power to weight ratio it might look that way but the VX is geared low and the transmission shift points are matched well with the engine's power characteristics so it actually has a fairly "zippy" feel to it. The VX is not fast by any stretch of the imagination, but it's quick enough that it's fun to drive. And for a 2 ton vehicle with high ground clearance, it's surprisingly nimble. Once you get comfortable with the lack of visibility, you can slice through traffic like a border collie through a herd of sheep.

    Shocks were "one" of the parts I was concerned about them becoming obsolete.
    No worries there - those Kayabas are completely rebuildable and if you don't like how stiff they are, the compression damping can be altered via the shim stack. I wouldn't touch the rebound stack though - unless you're going the aftermarket springs/big tires route. Rebound damping is spot on for OEM springs and wheels/tires.

    If you decide to go for it and start looking at VXs, make sure to check the shocks for leakage. Dragging windows can be fixed with 50 cents worth of bungee cord and 30 minutes of your time but leaking shocks means serious ka-ching to rebuild if you want to stay with OEM. I don't know exactly how much - probably in the neighborhood of $600-$800 which believe it or not is half the price of new OEM. But even if you do it yourself (not advised if you haven't worked on shocks before) the parts are pretty expensive. If they're soft but you see no evidence of leaking fluid then you can probably get by with a nitrogen charge. (OR maybe no fluid visible means all the fluid leaked out and washed away years ago )

    They're the floating piston style so naturally the N2 leaks out over time. You will not be able to tell if they need nitrogen just by pushing down on a corner of the car - you can't push hard enough to cause cavitation - they will damp well and appear to be OK at slow shaft speed even if they have almost no nitrogen. Take it for a drive - if they need N2, whacking a few bumps will introduce air bubbles into the shock fluid and then you'll be swaying and diving and boinging down the road. Nitrogen is cheap though. If the VX of your desire has 100K+ miles on it you might want to figure the cost of shock rebuild into your negotiating even if they aren't leaking because like most all things the internals wear and the fluid gets thinner with use.

  14. #29
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    "Tom do you need a pic to verify how aerodynamic...?"

    I wish to respectfully decline your invitation as any response on my part would certainly result in cataclysmic results from one source or another.

  15. #30
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    Well,,,I did find (on this site) the gear ratios. I was surprised to see the diffs are 4.30's! Now I know how they get this thing to scoot!

    MPG isn't the biggest consideration. However, when I finally broke down and bought a V8 (Jeep) last fall, I started to get annoyed by how often the darn thing needed gas. According to the display, I was getting about 12.5 mpg in moderate temps. Dead winter might have shoved it down near 10 mph. That's a little rich for me.

    All the past units with 6-bangers never bothered me in that regard. But they couldn't have been much better in reality. EPA says they're only 1mpg different. If I got 14mpg or better in the city, I'd probably be "happy".

    I guess my personal guage is whether my Corvette can get better mileage. With the stock motor, it could beat 15mpg around town. And, 30mpg on the hwy! Not sure what the new 383 will get though.

    If I bought one and felt it didn't perform any better than my short-timer V8 Jeep performed, I might (secretly) feel I'd made a poor choice. Because a bigger, more versatile car is always better -- if MPG is the same.

    I think my biggest concern is the parts situation. Somewhere (maybe this thread), I read that Isuzu stopped selling/importing cars to the U.S. last year. Is that correct? If so, I gotta wonder where you'd go to order a part. Do you have to call overseas? Is everything salvage at this point?

    For a backup "go-to" vehicle to my good-weather-only Corvette, it would need to be something that could/would be fairly reliable. And, in the case(s) where repairs were needed, having to wait for weeks/months to find a part would get OLD fast!

    Paying more for a respective part -- than for my vette would get annoying too. (I already consider some parts too expensive with a "Corvette tax" built-in. I'm probably not "rich" enough to own multiple money-traps.)

    On the other hand, now that I've got the bug, every other SUV looks BORING. I can hardly look at a Jeep anymore. I'm definitely hooked.

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