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Thread: My RWD VX :-(

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  1. #1
    Member Since
    Jan 2005
    Location
    2001, Ebony Black, 1153
    Posts
    2,264
    Thanked: 2
    THE FIRST THING YOU SHOULD DO:

    Make sure the VX is in 4H and park, crawl under the VX and try to move the front drive shaft. There should not be much play to it at all. A good healthy VX only has about 1/2" of turn (play) if any at all. If one of the CV's is blown or needing attention you will have quite a bit of loose feeling when you turn the shaft. If there is any weird noises or you can easily turn the front shaft (thing that attaches the TOD transfer case to the Differential) then you have CV issues. When my CV was blown I had about an inch of play. Checked someone else's VX at a meet and it had no play at all in the front drive shaft. After I replaced the front CV with the rebuilt one, I was close to no movement at all, but it still moved slightly, and then I came to learn that because I had driven around with the blown CV for so long it had damaged the Cup that goes into the Diff,

    and so I have this sitting in the garage to do as soon as Aamco is done fixing there mistakes that should've been fixed 2 and a half years ago when they first rebuilt my tranny.

    Lisa I can do the CV swap in about an hour now, but the differential short shaft cup (green inner cup) swap that goes into the Diff will take me a while at least a weekend or more, I have to drop my front diff again and this time I am going to replace both front seals. I don't mind doing this with some help, but it is a pain and I would rather do that in my garage at home, I have already done it once and have all the photos ready to post, but I have been super busy here lately.

  2. #2
    Member Since
    Feb 2008
    Location
    2001,Black,0565
    Posts
    10
    Thanked: 0
    I just installed a TOD on/off switch and my TOD display lights up whether the TOD is on or not. This is because I have the cable from the TOD ECU going to a 20 ohm resistor to trick the TOD ECU into thinking that it's connected and not give a bunch of error lights. Apparently, the electronics that operate the TOD lights come from the TOD ECU and not the TOD clutch or solenoid. So the TOD display is telling you how much power the TOD ECU is sending, not how much is acctually getting there.

    First, as has been suggested, look for an unmarked switch. I can't feel any difference when mine is switched, so you may not be able to tell what it does right away. Maybe take it off road.

    Second, take out your passenger seat and look at the electronic thing that looks like a small amp. That's the TOD ECU. If the light blue wire that is coming out of it has been diverted, then that is your issue. You either need to reattach it or connect it to a switch. I would recommend the switch assuming that it was diverted, in the first place, for a reason.

  3. #3
    Member Since
    Dec 2002
    Location
    '01 Ironman
    Posts
    1,286
    Thanked: 0
    ^^^^^ Good thinking
    Didn't even think of the previous owner installing a TOD On/Off switch.

    Do the lights move up and down when slipping in AWD mode? If not, that could be your simple fix.

    Edit: Wait MattLewis your TOD lights actually do light up when slipping? Then I guess you will have to check under the seat. My TOD ON/OFF switch sends me a "Check TOD" Light I thought the resistor just got rid of the check light not actually make it look as if TOD was working.
    Last edited by AlaskaVX : 02/26/2010 at 02:05 PM
    2001 Ironman Daily Driver... 3.5" suspension lift (OME912 springs and 1" spring spacer), ball joint flip, 1.5" front diff. drop, 33"x12.5 TrXus MT, 16x10 Eagle Alloy rims, Interceptor, PV muffler, K&N air filter, Alpine Supercharger, Bilstein shocks, and some trimming.

    2000 Ironman Project LS-1 VX... very slow progress but someday....... ohhhhh someday......

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