Recovery /snatch straps 101...to use Billy's words....

[VX KAT]

While picking out some ratchet straps for our trailer, thought I'd get a snatch strap for myself before Moab. Need some help making sense of all this info on recovery straps, I've also seen them called snatch straps. Searched and read some threads, then searched on internet. Trying to figure out what the ones are that most of you have on the front when you're off-roading.

I just don't know the details of what I'm lookin' for? All I see is a short piece hanging out the front, is that actually a 1' or 2' length or is it much longer but is wrapped up and secured somewhere out of site?

Read a true snatch strap has some stretch to it, ? whereas a tow or recovery strap does not. ??
Safe working load vs. break strength?

I know NOT to get anything with hooks.

Billy recommend getting "Clevis shackles", 3/4" fit good.

I've seen a few described in posts:

PK uses one -Safe Working Load of 17,600 lbs
Billy has a few 20,000 lb and a 30,000 lb

Can you all enlighten me on this subject with your recommendations?

[JAMAS]

Read through here, not sure if it is any help.

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...ghlight=rescue

[VX KAT]

Read through here, not sure if it is any help.

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...ghlight=rescue

Thanks, that's the thread where I got most of the info I quoted. It was most helpful!

[rowhard]

Billy recommend getting "Clevis shackles", 3/4" fit good.

Who needs Clevis shackles if you have one of these


Just kidding, You need the clevis shackles for the rear

[nfpgasmask]

This is a Clevis:


Usually, they are attached to the bumper with a Clevis mount welded/bolted in place:


Then there is a regular tow strap. This is all you will need to Moab, imo. Some have hooks, some don't, some are better than others.


I hear "Super Yanker" makes a really nice tow strap. Looks like this:


Then you level up with a winch. I'm putting one on my Trooper:


This is one type "snatch block":


Which is used for pulling people out like this:


I've never used a snatch block or snatch line, but I believe that is the purpose.

For Moab, a tow strap is enough for the trails you will likely do.

HTH,

Bart

[crotchrocket]

i have one of these, works great!

http://www.devon4x4.com/products_a/p...p-8000-kg.html

and one of these
http://www.devon4x4.com/products_a/p...rced-eyes.html


Do you need a snatch strap???? if so make sure you all know how to use one properly!!

[nfpgasmask]

Do you need a snatch strap???? if so make sure you all know how to use one properly!!

Yeah, definitely. People get hurt/killed all the time with careless/improper recovery techniques.

Bart

[PK]

The photo of the clevis shackle that Bart posted, is also known as a bow shackle down under.
They are the best because they -
Are made from higher tensile steel than a normal shackle, so are stronger for the same size.
Give more room for the strap to go through, and do less damage to the strap.

I always use a snatch strap, even for towing on the road.
You just adjust the length of it to suit.
It takes all of the jerking out of the towing connection that occurs when a normal strap goes slack and then tight again.

Just my preference though - others will have different opinions and experiences.

Bart's explanation of a snatch block in use is good.

PK

[Hiredgoon]

We use shackles all the time in theatrical rigging, which is what I do for a living. You have to look for ones that actually have a rating or safe working load stamped onto the shackle--they sell cheap ones at some hardware stores that have no actual rating, and aren't tested or certified to be any stronger than a dog-clip.

The reason you want something with a high safe working load is that the dynamic load on them will be considerably greater than the weight of the actual vehicle. The safe working load is generally 5x the failing load (depending on your country's standards) but it's generally not a good idea to exceed the SWL where it can be reasonably calculated.

As a rule your rigging is only as strong as the weakest part of the system, and you really don't want the weakest point to cause a pound of metal to come flying at you as though it was fired from a giant slingshot; which is what you are essentially creating when towing someone/thing. That's the main reason not to use anything with a hook on it, is that there's no positive closure on the fastener, and therefore no guarantee that it will stay where you hook it. A hook on the vehicle is more safe, since if the tow rope becomes unhooked, the hook itself--that is, the piece of metal--is much less likely to come flying at you. Also, stay away from quick-links, if they become distorted under strain they're almost impossible to open/close.

Your best bet, however, is to stick with webbing/strapping (rather than rope) and shackles (rather than hooks) even though they are a little less convenient. It's also important not to store the strap in the elements (for example on your roof rack) as exposure to moisture, and sunlight will cause them to become more brittle over time, and I've seen them snap under load. You also want to be careful about where your soft goods (strap) contacts any metal such as rubbing on the frame (or even using something like an aircraft cable or wire rope) will saw through them.

[AlaskaVX]

No need for a snatch block unless you are using a winch. The only time I have had to use one was to "double the power" of my winch when my brothers Toyota was in thick mud up to the doors. To do that you just hook up a strap to the vehicle needing recovery and attach the snatch block to it, then run the winch from your vehicle to the snatch block, then back to winching vehicle.

As for what you need in MOAB.... probobly just a cheap 10' and 25' strap that have loops at the ends and 2 shackles. Stretchy straps are nice since they don't give the big BANG/JERK when the strap tightens but the normal straps should be just fine.

[nfpgasmask]

As for what you need in MOAB.... probobly just a cheap 10' and 25' strap that have loops at the ends and 2 shackles. Stretchy straps are nice since they don't give the big BANG/JERK when the strap tightens but the normal straps should be just fine.

And not to keep your from spending money, but with all the folks that attend Moab, you will have a variety of options from fellow VXers if you get stuck, which is unlikely anyhow.

However, back in 08, Jim's Trooper got a little wedged and need to be yanked a tad to get out from this one difficult spot.


Bart

PS - Here is an example of how NOT to use a tow strap.

[Triathlete]

A I just don't know the details of what I'm lookin' for? All I see is a short piece hanging out the front, is that actually a 1' or 2' length or is it much longer but is wrapped up and secured somewhere out of site?

B Read a true snatch strap has some stretch to it, ? whereas a tow or recovery strap does not. ??
Safe working load vs. break strength?

C I know NOT to get anything with hooks.

D Billy recommend getting "Clevis shackles", 3/4" fit good.

I've seen a few described in posts:

E PK uses one -Safe Working Load of 17,600 lbs
Billy has a few 20,000 lb and a 30,000 lb

Can you all enlighten me on this subject with your recommendations?

A...I think what you are refering to here are the few members that have winches (Todd, Swordy, Spazz...) Totally differant world than a tow strap. If you have the money and the knowhow to fab up a whinch mount, this is the desired set up for self recovery and recovery of others.

B...Either a snatch or tow strap will work just fine. Both have their advantage and disadvantages...but both are fine.

C...very correct...don't want any flying projectiles!

D...1/2 or 3/4 clevis's will work just fine.

E...The higher the load the stronger. Personally I'd go 20,000 minimum.

Any good 4X4 shop should have what you need and be able to steer you in the right direction.
Hope that helps. Any other questions, just ask.

[MSHardeman]

HEY, that's me playing tug of war with everyone on the other end of the tow strap.

Bart, that might not be the best way to use a strap, but from what I remember it eventually worked, and I didn't (really) run over anyone when the VX finally shot up over the ledge I was stuck on.

Seriously, though, that's not really the best way to use a tow strap. Fine for me in the car, but dangerous as all get out for those on the other end for reasons mentioned above.

[VX crazy]

And not to keep your from spending money, but with all the folks that attend Moab, you will have a variety of options from fellow VXers if you get stuck, which is unlikely anyhow.

However, back in 08, Jim's Trooper got a little wedged and need to be yanked a tad to get out from this one difficult spot.


Bart

PS - Here is an example of how NOT to use a tow strap.

ROFL....looking at these two pictures, I see all sorts of accidents waiting to happen! And the one photo of Mark, too funny.....heeeevvvvv hoooooo heeeeeevvvvv hooooo

[VX KAT]

Thanks all! Really filled in my gaps. I knew it wasn't a winch, but wasn't sure why I only saw like 1 ft of strap hanging in front or back. (Like Rowhard's pic from Moab goin' up, has a short yellow strap on the back end showing. And I know I've seen several pics with them hanging on the front)

Going around these trails around here we're bound to end up in a bind (as mrtew can attest) & will need strapped, so we need to get a good one. I'll take it to Moab too.

Heard horror stories of the metal hooks, so knew to avoid them for sure. Turns out I looked around in the garage and found we have an older tow strap with hooks on each end.... Time to replace that.

Thanks Bart for mentioning the Super Yanker, Dave thinks we should get that one, looks great.

Can you double your strap? And if so, do you gain any strength or wouldn't it still be the weakest link rating which would be the eye strap in that scenario (which is the original strength or break rating). Reason I ask is that I found this ARB beauty......need I say more? Isn't that a good enough reason to pick this one? ......but it's a winch extension strap/tow strap and doesn't stretch....and is 66' long....