How hot do your hubs get?

[ibmx2]

" And you don't even need a a fish scale - just find an object with the desired mass and hang it on a lug bolt at 3 o'clock. I use a gallon milk jug half full of water - hang it on the lug bolt with some wire and turn the preload down until the 4.15 lbs of water won't turn the hub then back off a hair and call it good. This way you don't have to have three hands - gravity takes care of the tension leaving you one hand free to spin and one to tighten...

dam now i am pi$$ i spent all that money on my snap on inch & foot pound torque wrenches

quite genius & great for the road side fix !!!

[CrnCnn]

I will check my brakes then. What are the odds I could have two sticky calipers? Other than that I don't know why they would be dragging.

[SlowPro48]

Well... you say this problem cropped up after you installed new rotors and pads, right? When you replaced the rotors and pads did you remove the rubber bellows from the caliper bores and inspect/clean the exposed part of the pistons before pushing them back into the calipers to make room for the new pads? If not, then odds are pretty good you could have sticky calipers!

The pads take years to wear so a band of crud can develop around the exposed part of the piston. The boot provides good protection from stream fording, pressure washing, salt spray, etc. but it's not 100% leak proof. If in the process of installing fat new pads, you just shove that crudded up part of the piston back into the bore, you run the risk of dragging brakes. (and possibly ruined seal too although it is set back into the bore far enough to avoid that in most cases) Best to take the time to remove the boots and inspect the pistons. If dirty, clean the piston with a brass brush or some brass wool or fine steel wool and rubber friendly solvent (brake fluid works well) hose it off with perc then blow it off with air - especially if you used steel wool. Now you can push the part of the piston that has been exposed for several years back into the bore without fear of it sticking.

Or hey - maybe the new rotors and pads are just a tad thicker than OEM and the tolerances stacked up and you're getting brake drag from that...

[nfpgasmask]

Yeah, I used a cheap fish scale, cost maybe $5.

There used to be a decent tutorial on PlanetIsuzoo for the wheel bearing repack but it seems to have disappeared???

The hubs on my Trooper get pretty warm to the touch. But nothing that I can't keep my hand on.

Bart

[Ldub]

There used to be a decent tutorial on PlanetIsuzoo for the wheel bearing repack but it seems to have disappeared???

Bart

Isn't it the same one by David Chang, that's in our "how to" section?

http://www.vehicross.info/misc/pdf_f...ing_repack.pdf

[nfpgasmask]

Isn't it the same one by David Chang, that's in our "how to" section?

http://www.vehicross.info/misc/pdf_f...ing_repack.pdf

Yeah, that's it! It was in the how-to section on the Planet and I just looked for it and couldn't find it??



Bart

[CrnCnn]

But nothing that I can't keep my hand on.

Bart

That's about where these are, pretty warm but not burn you. Maybe its all for nothing

[SlowPro48]

That's about where these are, pretty warm but not burn you. Maybe its all for nothing

Yup - really hot is a guaranteed problem - pretty warm is probably nothing unless it's accompanied by the roar of worn out bearings. Drive on!

[PK]

Rule of thumb -

If you spit on it, and it sizzles, it is tooooo hot.

PK

[CrnCnn]

I didn't remove the rubber piece. My pads were still fairly new so the piston wasnt all that far out (I know that doesnt mean its not dirty) the rotors were garbage so I replaced it all at the same time. The pads and rotors were pretty think so maybe they are just dragging. I did notice they were a lot more on the warm side in the first few days and they dont seem as hot now, but is has also been pretty cold here so I didnt know if that had anything to do with it.

I am gonna be driving about 1000 miles soon and dont want any grenading happening.