thats about all the technical input i have...
good luck brother, keep her goin!
thats about all the technical input i have...
good luck brother, keep her goin!
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Missfire after a timing belt replacement could be the timing belt is off a tooth or so.
Billy Oliver
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x2. That's what I am thinking. Given the recent history and what you said, it could very easily be bad timing.
I did my timing belt and water pump and various pulleys myself, and it cost me $900 in parts. So don't feel too bad yet. I would get the the pulleys off and re-time the VX. There are several videos on how to do it and the shop manual is available on this forum. Also, see my how-to. You should be able to see if the timing is correct without pulling the belt off. Which will save you some work.
http://www.nofuture.com/myvx/how-tos/tb/tbelt.htm
Bart
In the link that you posted it shows how to replace the belt if it is not broken. In the tsb I posted it tells how to re time the cams if the belt is broken.You cannot just turn the cam to the mark and have it be in time.It tells you in the tsb that it can take up to 9 full turns to get the cam back in time.So he cannot check to see if it is in time without removing the belt. shawn
OK, well, if he leaves the belt on and turns the crankshaft pulley, at every full turn the notches should line up. If they do not, then it is obvious the timing is off. That's all I was saying. It would just be a quick check. But you are right, if the timing is definitely off, you cannot re-time without removing the belt.
Bart
The Clutch fan prob is most likely a failure to do a final tightening off the bolts upon reassembly ( but the mechanic will deny that) and another member here had an issue while installing a timing belt, even though all the correct marks and grooves lineup then lifters have to be loaded (if I remember correctly) The member and mechanic ran out of things to try and another member here had a better shop manual and posted what step had been missed upon installation. And the 3.5 is a non-interference engine so there are no valves bent do to the belt breaking. Other members will chime in and fill in the many blanks I have forgot. Don't let the garage tear into it until the VX knowledge gang chimes in. When I did my timing belt I made sure I didn't lose my lifter pump, they wanted to unload but I used a few well placed wire-ties and wire. But I realize in you case there was nothing you could do.. If I find the long post about the other member I'll paste it here...good luck
Update read through this thread, it might have some answers..
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...ht=timing+belt
Last edited by VCrossfan : 09/10/2009 at 06:57 PM
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From what I remember there's a thread about how the timing belt install directions in one manual show it off what it should be - a quick search should find you that thread.
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John Eaton
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2001 Proton Yellow #580
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bart(nfpgasmask) did a great writeup on how to do the timing belt, and may have some information for you
I am about to have my timing belt changed. Wisdom states do th ewater pump now as it is cheaper than having to do it later. Now is this just a safety decision and still the suggested advice. And if the water pump is prone to failure is an OEM water pump the way to go and if so why?
Thanks
I just did my own timing belt (per Bart's very excellent instructions) and even though I wasn't having a problem with my water pump, I replaced it while I was in there anyway. After seeing how hard it was just to get to the dang thing I REALLY didn't want to have to go back in there until it's time to change the timing belt again in another 90k-100k miles. The cost to replace the water pump at a later date would probably be about the same as just changing the timing belt because you have to remove almost everything you would to do the belt just to get at the water pump. I would suggest doing it now to avoid the headache (and wallet ache) later.
I went with an Isuzu stock water pump because I figured if it lasted me almost 100k miles the first time then it must be good stuff. That's just me, though, and I'm sure others have used after market pumps with no problems.
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OK I'm not sure where this stands or what the answer is.......is the 3.5 a non-interference engine or not? Member "Crossman" who is currently selling his 2001 Proton advised this is an interference engine and now today while getting Kilby skids installed, mechanic looked it up in his latest "book". Says it IS AN INTERFERENCE ENGINE if 8th VIN digit is an "X".Help......
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We've seen various sources say our engine is an interference engine and none of them are the people who made the engine. Isuzu Motors in a tech training manual for the new '98 3.2L and 3.5L engines says these engines are non-interference engines.
The eighth digit in the VIN just designates what engine the vehicle has, 3.2, 3.5, 3.5DI, 2.2, and so on.
Mark