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  1. #1
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    So how much of a difference have you noticed in acceleration?

    Awesome write up by the way...how long did it take ya? With pics and info like this, it makes it seem like something I could do, if I ever go bigger than 33s.

    I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them.
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  2. #2
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    Yep, the back is the easy one...have fun with the front!
    That is the nive thing about the Zu 12 bolt, 9 inchers, and Toy axles. You can just remove and replace the third members.

    Marlin...the 478's are ideal for 33ish tires on the VX. And unfortunately are about your only option if running the stock 10 bolt front end. For 36ish tires 538's are probably better...but that would require a solid axle up front.
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  3. #3
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    How about replacing the rear wheel bearing that are on the axle shafts. Does it require special ZuZoo tools? When we replaced my rear diff for howling finally, I was going to do the bearings and hubs and precautionary but we could not get those bearings to free.
    Larry S.
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by tomdietrying View Post
    I'll say it again......Great write up! BTW - Did you also install your drop differential bracket while you swap the gears?
    Peace.
    Tom
    Of course!!!!! I will post pics with a write up for that shortly as well. You are wanting to do the drop as well huh? Sounds like I need to make a trip to Dallas soon

    Quote Originally Posted by ZEUS View Post
    WTH? Why in the world would you reinstall your LSD?!?! I mean, come on, only people who want traction would do that!

    Great write-up! I am not sure how big of a deal it is, but to my understanding it is best to mark the driveshafts before you remove them so that you can put them back the same way they came out to minimize the chance of developing a vibration.

    ...I wish I would have thrown in a lunchbox while I was swapping gears but I don't think they were even available at the time.

    Did you get your front pinion seal in without leaks?

    Oh, and BTW, the off the line punch is more pronounced with the gear swap if you don't have a free-flowing exhaust. The lack of back-pressure takes away from the torque aspect. ...at least in my experience with it all.
    As far as the driveshafts go I was having all kinds of whine from the driveline post lift so I wanted to try to change it up, and now it is as quiet as a sleepy baby

    As far as the "lunchbox" goes, I just had them take out the stock one and install it in the new 4.78 when they were setting it up, they didn't charge me anymore for this just a simple $200 set-up.

    As far as athe front pinion seal, yes I had the ring and pinion shop here in Houston do it for $50, I know it is super easy and I could've definitely done it myself, but in case of any mishaps (leaks) I did not want to be the one to blame (fix).

    The off the line punch is quite a bit better, but I have found that the rolling take off is almost too good for the brakes now

    Quote Originally Posted by lasturbo View Post
    How about replacing the rear wheel bearing that are on the axle shafts. Does it require special ZuZoo tools? When we replaced my rear diff for howling finally, I was going to do the bearings and hubs and precautionary but we could not get those bearings to free.
    I am not sure. I got the front bearings free pretty easily on each side, as I had to do the Diff Drop and had to remove the old brackets and install the new ones. I will do a write up on that pretty soon, what all did you try to get them free? The ones on the front are held in by a couple of C clips, one before the bearing and then one before the seal.

  5. #5
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    Wrench Top Notch!!!

    GREAT write up Ryan......

  6. #6
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    Nice write up. I will likely end up doing something similar with my Trooper down the road...

    Bart

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by LittleBeast View Post
    I am not sure. I got the front bearings free pretty easily on each side, as I had to do the Diff Drop and had to remove the old brackets and install the new ones. I will do a write up on that pretty soon, what all did you try to get them free? The ones on the front are held in by a couple of C clips, one before the bearing and then one before the seal.
    Thanks, it seems to be the consensus as I started a separate thread on this and it has been quiet. I should have done it in the first place since this was a differential R&R thread. BTW. Great job on it!!:bgwg:

    Link to rear wheel bearing question thread:
    http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...threadid=15867

  8. #8
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    Thumbs up

    Ryan,
    Yeah, come on up to Dallas anytime. Shoot you never know. I might be in your neck of the woods this summer. I'd love to see you and the Beast in person again.
    Peace.
    Tom
    "Through Great Sacrifice..... Great Rewards Will Be Achieved"

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marlin View Post
    So how much of a difference have you noticed in acceleration?

    Awesome write up by the way...how long did it take ya? With pics and info like this, it makes it seem like something I could do, if I ever go bigger than 33s.
    It is definitely a difference, but really I would say it only "feels" like an increase of 10-20hp, but it is a nice step up in performance, my speedo is WAY off right now

    Back took me 1-2 nights (4-5 hours) each night. With a write up like this or if I had known exactly what I was doing I could've done it in one night easily.

    Quote Originally Posted by Triathlete View Post
    Yep, the back is the easy one...have fun with the front!
    That is the nive thing about the Zu 12 bolt, 9 inchers, and Toy axles. You can just remove and replace the third members.

    Marlin...the 478's are ideal for 33ish tires on the VX. And unfortunately are about your only option if running the stock 10 bolt front end. For 36ish tires 538's are probably better...but that would require a solid axle up front.
    Yeah but I didn't really find the front that difficult either, it was just the center link ball joint and the lower ball joints that were giving me problems, which if you are careful and know what you are doing you really do not need to remove them. I will write all of this up when I get around to doing the how to for the front, but yes the front is MUCH more complicated, and I will probably have at least 30 photos for that how to thread.

    Oh and Independent 4x has sold multiple 5.38 gears for our front end but I am not sure of their availability as of now, I am pretty sure they are sold out as of now, but they are out there somewhere.

  10. #10
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    Very cool write up! Driver
    Cars designed by spreadsheets make sense. Cars designed by engineers make history.

  11. #11
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    AWESOME write up.....


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  12. #12
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    Great write up.

    I can certainly vouch for the difficulty in removing the ball joints on the center link.
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    Put a smiley after you say that Bub.

  13. #13
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    "the off the line punch is more pronounced with the gear swap if you don't have a free-flowing exhaust. The lack of back-pressure takes away from the torque aspect. ...at least in my experience with it all."

    Don't you gain all that back tho if you install a 'lectric fan?

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by tom4bren View Post
    "the off the line punch is more pronounced with the gear swap if you don't have a free-flowing exhaust. The lack of back-pressure takes away from the torque aspect. ...at least in my experience with it all."

    Don't you gain all that back tho if you install a 'lectric fan?
    Or you can just punch some "speed holes" in the hood and fenders!

  15. #15
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    Thumbs up

    I'll say it again......Great write up! BTW - Did you also install your drop differential bracket while you swap the gears?
    Peace.
    Tom

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