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Thread: Rear Door Spare Tire Mount

  1. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZEUS View Post
    Hey, come on... that wouldn't piss me off at all! ...In fact, I already tried it - the tire was way too big to take it one step further even if it were resting at a 60 degree angle - other than that, the structural integrity would be too compromised for it to work. My favorite idea regarding all this was to remove the hatch completely and replace it with one made of tube so the spare would swing on it and sit right above the bumper instead of behind it... it would only work for the dedicated wheeling VX I have in my dreams tho!
    I was referring to the changing my mind aspect...
    Anyway, I looked real hard at the Pathfinder mounting system. It is separate of the door, and it actually mounts to the side of the vehicle, placing the weight on a different set of hinges. It would be difficult to make it fit the contours of the VX though. It would not be impossible and it would still allow convenient access to the door vice the hitch type spare mount. Not a fan of the hitch type at all. We shall see tomorrow morning, I should have pics up by lunch if it stops raining.

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  2. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZEUS View Post
    Hey, come on... that wouldn't piss me off at all! ...In fact, I already tried it - the tire was way too big to take it one step further even if it were resting at a 60 degree angle - other than that, the structural integrity would be too compromised for it to work. My favorite idea regarding all this was to remove the hatch completely and replace it with one made of tube so the spare would swing on it and sit right above the bumper instead of behind it... it would only work for the dedicated wheeling VX I have in my dreams tho!
    I can imagine it now. A rear tube door. All that visibility. Awww... soothing....

  3. #48
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    What about a vertical "tube" carrier that would allow the tire to sit right in front of the factory spare space. You could remove the cover and donut to get the tire as far to the rear as possible. Put a hinge and pin at the bottom so when the door is open it can swing down for ease of removal and to access other stuff in the rear.
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  4. #49
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    Hubs:

    Both should fit, the 93 for sure, the 88 most likely. I think 87 is the break for the 8 bolt front axles. The red ones are the aisins. strongest hubs out there but way too expensive to buy new. I went with Warns instead of getting scrap aisins and rebuilding. Matt at indie has rebuild kits you an buy for the aisins.

    Tire mount:

    sounds like you are too far in, but have you ever thought, what I will do eventually, to creat a shelf in the back of the VX that the spare tire can slip under? I know my 285/75 would fit in nicely. The area could have some extra area around the sides, and infront behind the seats plenty of room for an OBA tank. you lose the rear seat though, but I think most of us are well past that point. Also, no external fabrication needed. its all contained inside.
    Ryan Christiansen

    Trooper Skid Plates, OME 912's, Stric9 Sliders, Load Warrior with extension, Apline sub in rear door, Apline front speakers, Alpine head unit, Definity Dakota MT 285/75 R16, Aussie Lockers Front and Rear, 4.77 gears and Warn Manual Hubs.http://picasaweb.google.com/RyanVehiX

  5. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marlin View Post
    Kodiak, what brand are yours, they look indentical to the ones you had on. The red face style.

    They’re stock Aisin manual hubs. They came off of a first gen Rodeo. They sell for about $25 each here. I haven’t been to pick and pull this month. I’m waiting for one of there 50% off days.
    Cars designed by spreadsheets make sense. Cars designed by engineers make history.

  6. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZEUS View Post
    Interesting... you could mount the tire just above the floor but have a pad for it to sit on to relieve stress from the mount during travel. Still don't like the weight tho...
    I am not sure what this weight we are talking about is coming from. I just weighed the spare and mounting hardware and then my full size spare. The spare and hardware was about 27lbs. My full size was about 70 with the new bracket.
    Assuming the whole door is around 300lbs, that is an increase of around 12.5 percent or so. That is not significant at all. Even if the door was 200lbs, that is still only around 20%, still well within engineering specifications.
    The real concern would be departure angle, which I believe you would lose cladding first, and as Tom said, for the once in a lifetime need, you could always remove the tire right quick and clear your obstacle. A PITA, but you might do it once...ever.
    Jack, is that a better presentation...LOL.

  7. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by NJ99VX View Post

    tank. you lose the rear seat though, but I think most of us are well past that point. Also, no external fabrication needed. its all contained inside.
    Loss of rear seat is not an option for me. Otherwise I agree that would be the best route, just put everything on top of the spare. Or even just stand it on its side behind the seat like the cherokee. Not a significant loss.
    Nope, its goin on the door tomorrow morning, if worst comes to worst, I can always just take it off and install the bolts with some RTV, paint them some color I deem fitting and you are left with a very subtle mod remnant that the average person would never even notice.

  8. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by tomdietrying View Post
    I'll let Jack do it first and get all the wrinkles out of it first.
    Peace.
    Tom
    whoa whoa whoa.... i said i wasnt gonna be the guinea pig...(tom, im refering to a guinea pig who offroads on a regular basis )

    Quote Originally Posted by Triathlete View Post
    Dropping off some of those Moab ledges with a spare mounted out back would definately "reshape" the rear hatch! I think a removeable baja style mount in the rear is what I'd go with...but I'm quite happy with a few ratchet straps in the rear.
    ya, thats EXACTLY what im worried about...

    Quote Originally Posted by Marlin View Post
    Jack, is that a better presentation...LOL.
    thats more like it


    with all this talk, i have actually came up with a great idea... may work for some, maybe not for others, i havent actually measured so i dont know, but its worth a try...
    why not build a wooden or metal box where the factory spare goes, and mount your full size spare on the inside of that??
    would eliminate our small amount of cargo space, but would hold the tire, take the weight off the sheet metal, and still be able to carry a full size spare...

    hmmm.... ill let you guys know how it works once i get the money to build the box lol
    "Do Not Seek Praise. Seek Criticism."

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  9. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by pbkid View Post
    why not build a wooden or metal box where the factory spare goes, and mount your full size spare on the inside of that??
    would eliminate our small amount of cargo space, but would hold the tire, take the weight off the sheet metal, and still be able to carry a full size spare...

    hmmm.... ill let you guys know how it works once i get the money to build the box lol
    I looked at it, the fit for the factory spare is very tight, so if you are beyond the factory size, which almost all of us are, it won't work to use any of the interior of the spare area.
    I was thinkin along those lines too, but no go.

  10. #55
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    no no...you mis understand...recreate the cover for the rear door, in wood or metal (so you can mount whatever you want 'inside' of the wood/metal cage..

    then mount the full size spare on the outside of the box/cage built....basically taking up the cargo space we do have...

    say, you had your back seat in, and stood your full size spare up inside your VX behind the back seat...mount it in that area, but attached to the rear door...


    you could even use the factory mounting system for the factory spare...that way you always can get the spare unmounted (with the factory lug wrench)

  11. #56
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    quick installation and removal when going wheeling, and it doesnt comprimise any of these things people mentioned

    just space

  12. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by tom4bren View Post
    Hope y'all like the smell of rubber. Having the spare inside will certainly add to the ambience.
    i got one up on you.. check my other thread for details..

  13. #58
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    with all this talk, i have actually came up with a great idea... may work for some, maybe not for others, i havent actually measured so i dont know, but its worth a try...
    why not build a wooden or metal box where the factory spare goes, and mount your full size spare on the inside of that??
    would eliminate our small amount of cargo space, but would hold the tire, take the weight off the sheet metal, and still be able to carry a full size spare...
    Thats what I described above only with tubing instead of a box and instead of mounting to the door mount to the floor with a hinge so it swings down and out!

  14. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by Triathlete View Post
    Thats what I described above only with tubing instead of a box and instead of mounting to the door mount to the floor with a hinge so it swings down and out!
    great minds think alike

  15. #60
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    Hmmm, my main question is: Is the full-size spare planned to be VX carried full-time OR only on off-road outings???

    If the full-size spare is only planned for off-road outings, then the "donut" should be retained for urban travel.

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