I'd use "Marine Grade"...
Super VXer
I'd use "Marine Grade"...
Super VXer
how much time did you give it to cure?
Greetings, Earthling. We come in peace... Never mind "Paris to Dakar", the VehiCROSS looks ready for the Martian desert.
Super VXer
Hmmm, ROWHARD-- good observation. Any glue takes longer to cure in a air-restricted space like within a confined door cavity. Time to ponder about "curring time". "AIM HIGH!!!"Originally Posted by rowhard
Super VXer
The package called for 24 hours cure time. I gave it 36 hours.
What about a hard epoxy? Is there any reason the glue shouldn't be rock hard when it dries?
Like THIS one?....
Super VXer
Cure hard (epoxy) ... cure soft (RTV) ain't what's critical. You need something that sticks to glass.
I haven't done the repair yet but plan on using a high grade of black RTV.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Put a smiley after you say that Bub.
Super VXer
like THIS?
I don't want to mess up again.
Super VXer
Yes sir - that's what I had in mind. Just make sure that there isn't any silicon lube on the glass before install or the RTV won't stick to the glass.
Super VXer
Since I am going to redo it, I plan on going over the top on prep work.
I am going to....
-remove the window completely.
-clean the window at the contact points.
-remove the rubber seals and clean them really good.
-hose the rubber down with silicone.
-remove metal brackets that I installed on sunday and clean them out.
-reinstall rubber seals
-install brackets back full of RTV.
-put window back in
-attach bracket to window.
-roll up the window completely so that the bracket is exactly where it needs to be.
-let dry for 3-6 months (okay maybe 2 days)
and of course, this only happened on the drivers side, passenger side glue still good. However, I am going to redo that one too.
I HATE rework!
Super VXer
you might also think about roughing up the window with some 80 grit where the bracket goes to give it some tooth if you didn't before.
Super VXer
Yes, that is what I used, and I pulled the windows and cleaned the heck out of them and then left them in my garage to dry overnight, then I put them back in the VX the next day after they had cured completely for 24hours with no moving around at all.
Last edited by LittleBeast : 05/19/2009 at 10:18 AM
Super VXer
I don't think I can safely apply the brackets to the windows outside of the tracks because I didn't mark them good enough.
I am going to do all of what you said, but have them dry in the "up" position.
Super VXer
"after they had cursed completely for 24hours"
*(&^%^&$#%^&
BWAAHAAHAA!!
Super VXer
I am really glad you still have not figured out how to click the "quote" button below the reply you want to respond to
Super VXer
Not nearly as much fun
Edit: Actually what I should have said is that 'paraphrasing is MUCH more fun'.
Last edited by tom4bren : 05/20/2009 at 06:51 AM
Super VXer
I removed my windows and rubber tracks last night. Even on the side that still had the bracket attached, the liquid nails was still liquidy. It hadn't cured after over 48 hours. I also found that the driver side rubber was torn down the center channel. So now I am going to order new rubber from Merlin (hopefully available and only about $8 a side still) this morning and wait patiently. After everything comes in, I am going to add white lithium grease to the channels, reinstall the gasket, then install windows and attach to brackets. I am planning on using marine grade epoxy. After seeing how little everything cured, I moved from my thoughts of RTV to a marine grade epoxy that is supposed to be able to cure underwater. Figured that would take care of my problem once and for all(I hope).
The good news is, I am AMAZINGLY fast at removing door panels, windows, etc. after all the practice I have had. I am in the West Chester, OH area if anyone wants assistance.
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