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Thread: this isnt looking good....

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by pbkid View Post
    ya, i had it welded on today...the rear axle is welded anyhow so the welder said it wouldnt loose strength with the extra weld....

    now im freaking out... i have NO access to a corded drill, only my cordless that is definately not strong enough to drill through our frame...

    gonna have to get creative
    I installed mine & it took multiple drills for me to get the job done. I used a 90 degree "big" Milwaukee corded drill (borrowed from Dad !) for the main mounting holes in the frame & where that wouldn't fit I used a smaller DeWalt 90 degree rechargeable drill (borrowed from Home Depot ) for a couple on the frame and for the small holes along the sheet metal under your door I used a pneumatic 90 degree (borrowed from my mechanic/beer buddy ) with different length bits (**ground shanks down on like 2 bits IIRC).

    Also..on the frame...I marked each hole, then center-punched, drilled each hole small first (pilot) and then drilled a mid-sized hole followed by the desired size. Don't ask me what the desired size was as I can't 'member. (Alzheimer's )

    Could probably do it with just the latter two drills I mentioned....but, have to admit the big 'ole' Milwaukee made short work of the first frame holes I used it on while the DeWalt had to work some (not as much torque). The pneumatic 90 degree drill "barely" fit to do the small holes & had to be positioned in various positions with different length bits to pull off the job. This was my experience anyways!

    **IIRC I had to grind one bit's shank down alot as the pneumatic drill & bit combo barely fit in place to start drilling each hole. Had to insert "shorter-modified" bit into hole of slider...position pneumatic drill with chuck open..close chuck & drill hole until chuck bottoms out on slider...remove drill & bit...insert "longer-modifed" bit into same hole of slider...close chuck & drill hole through...repeat for next hole!

    Hope this helps!


    P.S.---The only other way I could see making it easier to drill the sheet-metal small holes under the door would be to some how mark the holes & remove sliders..drill holes..than re-install sliders & put in your small bolts. I didn't do it this way because I had already mounted my big bolts into the frame to hold the slider in position along with a floor jack & block of wood to coax it in position while I did the small holes with pneumatic drill.
    Last edited by Jolly Roger VX'er : 05/08/2009 at 05:28 PM
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]"If its fast and reliable, its not cheap;
    if its fast and cheap, its not reliable;
    if its cheap and reliable, its not fast."


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  2. #17
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    ya, i found a corded drill i will be using tomorrow to make it work...got all the bits...now all i gotta do is spend the time to do it..

    i have a heavy duty 90 degree attachment for drills so i should be good there..i have both a smaller and a larger 90 bit (use it at work all the time)
    "Do Not Seek Praise. Seek Criticism."

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  3. #18
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    Talking

    Quote Originally Posted by pbkid View Post
    ya, i found a corded drill i will be using tomorrow to make it work...got all the bits...now all i gotta do is spend the time to do it..

    i have a heavy duty 90 degree attachment for drills so i should be good there..i have both a smaller and a larger 90 bit (use it at work all the time)
    I still think the handgun idea would save you alot of time...

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ldub View Post
    I still think the handgun idea would save you alot of time...
    dont have a handgun...but i have a shotgun

  5. #20
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    Question

    If doing bolt on, do you need to sleeve the bolts so as not to "crush" the frame as you tighten them up?

    I put a big washer on the back of mine when I bolted, but never thought of the pinching of the box frame - if it's even an issue...

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kenny View Post
    If doing bolt on, do you need to sleeve the bolts so as not to "crush" the frame as you tighten them up?

    I put a big washer on the back of mine when I bolted, but never thought of the pinching of the box frame - if it's even an issue...
    Good point ...

    Even beyone tightening, how aboot "spirited" slider use...

  7. #22
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    i think the weight is spread out enough that its not going to be an issue...they have 10 bolts per side...

  8. #23
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    good news....









    THEY'RE ON!!!!!!!

    7 hours today by myself..

  9. #24
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    Very cool!! Can't wait to see them.
    Cars designed by spreadsheets make sense. Cars designed by engineers make history.

  10. #25
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    take some pics of them finished..we would like to see them
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]...

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by pbkid View Post
    good news....









    THEY'RE ON!!!!!!!

    7 hours today by myself..
    I think you beat my time by 'aboot' an hour! I 'member it being like 4hrs per side by myself. Great to hear you were triumphant!!!!!!!

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