Remove The Cladding?

[tom4bren]

I didn't really watch blujfan too close when he was removing cladding from the donor. I know there was some adhesive but what really took a lot of time was 1 or 2 bolts that were rusted in place & he had to cut them loose.

[nfpgasmask]

Yeah, I don't think it would be too hard to replace the double-stick tape once the cladding is removed and cleaned. I am just worried about damaging (over flexing) the cladding when trying to remove it.

I guess I will have to make that call when the time comes.

Bart

[nfpgasmask]

The only rivets I remember seeing were in the wheelwells - check out the top of the wheelwells. You should be able to drill them out and use new rivets of the same size really easily. I believe a hair dryer would also help you deal with the dbl stick tape.

Ahhh, OK yeah. I know what you are talking about now. I have seen those. Bugger!

Thanks - Bart

[tom4bren]

I doubt a hair dryer will help much on the sticky stuff. I don't think you'll be able to get the heat anywhere near where it'll need to go. Prolly just talkin out my arse since I've never removed any of the cladding 'cept for the piece for hitch install.

Bart - just plan for a full day & take your time. You'll be OK.

[rowhard]

Bart, all the cladding was removed from mine when it was in the body shop. It seems fine now even though I wonder IF they used any double sided tape on it. Just let them know not to remove the screws between the hood and headlights.

[deermagnet]

I'm not sure how helpful this is, but here it is. This comes from a dealer document as an introduction for dealer personel. There's also some stuff in the shop manual about the location and size of fasteners for some of the cladding in the body section.




Mark Griffin