HD tie rod adjuster

[Triathlete]

Use your old rod ends or order new.

If you want heavy duty you'd definately want something a bit bigger than stock. I looked at one of Indy's at the San Diego meet (Rickshaw has a pair) and the rod ends are a lot beefier than stock.

[JoFotoz]

Indy4x4 has them...I just ordered a set.

Call and ask for Matt or Clint

https://id211.chi.us.securedata.net/...products_id=57


Bigger ends and the threaded section and 'bar' are huge!



Yup..$229...but worth every penny IMO....its one of the major weak links...

...pay now...or REALLY pay later.


Hey..mention their advert in the "pin up calendar"...they'll look after you!...


jo

[newthings]

Andy Miller (Swordy) built a few sets of improved tie rods. I was fortunate to get a pair.
Here is some discussion on the project.
As many know, Andy was a real pioneer with our trucks and went just about everywhere and did just about everything. He was a master of repairs in the field.
He found weaknesses and made improvements. Andy, Tone and Bob Graber (Grandpa Bob/ Dragon Bob) were the cutting edge of proving what the VX can do.
Andy was going to market the rods, but has pretty much dropped off the net. If you are listening Andy, thanks for all that you have done and I hope all is well with you.


Roy writes-
I got the rod ends today. They are Perfect Circle brand.
The Zerk fittings were self-tapping.
Even with the cardboard tubes, the threads had a few dings and I had to dress them so the threads would not bind.
The pretty rod paint job is going to get killed when the vise grips bite into the tubes to adjust the alignment. The cost of milling flats would not be worth it unless you had your own mill and it would make a weak spot.
Auto Zone has the best price at $22.00 (In 2002)
Part Numbers-
ES262L
ES262R

Roy writes-
The Tie Rod Tubes are 4130.
I make the tube wall to be .22".
I don't think heat treating should be required.
Annealed material is about 65000 lbs. /in2 tensile strength.
Discount 50% for the thread notch or 33ksi. The cross-section is .583 in2 or 19ksi. The stock 5/8" rod was 119ksi, 50% discount to 60ksi, with an area of (13mm at thread root or .51" diameter) .204in2. This means the stock rod strength is an estimated 12.24ksi. So, in terms of the tube, it would be 1/3 stronger and the local strain on the thread root will be spread over a larger area.
The new rod end compares to the stock 14mm (13mm root) at 12.24 ksi to the new area of .307in2 at an estimated strength of the forged an heat treated new rod end of 60ksi (119ksi discounted 50%) to 18.4 ksi.

Andy Miller wrote-
The new tie rods have the same taper as the stock ones, and 11/16-18 threaded rods. The Jam nuts I've found at a place online, they are like $3.
The tubes had to be tapped to fit the rod ends.
The right hand tap was like $30, but the left hand tap was over $100.
The 4130 DOM steel tubing is 1.065 OD and 0.624 ID (same size as the tap drill I'd need).

Next thing that might break will probably be a rod end, although the rod ends are 11/16", I think that they are now the stronger, cheaper, weakest link, as rod ends are only like 27 bucks...

Andy
BTW These rod ends are also available with 3/4" threads.

[Triathlete]

NT...Swordy still has his VX as far as I know. He dropped out of the wheeling when he hurt his back about 3 years ago. I am sure he would he happy to answer any questions you guys might have about any of his VX mods. His info is in his bio. He was lifted and locked front and rear and had made many heavy duty parts for his VX including the tie rods.

[JoFotoz]

My 2cents worth...

Dont re-invent the wheel.

Indy4x has done the work...and they WORK.

jo

[VCrossfan]

NT...Swordy still has his VX as far as I know. He dropped out of the wheeling when he hurt his back about 3 years ago. I am sure he would he happy to answer any questions you guys might have about any of his VX mods. His info is in his bio. He was lifted and locked front and rear and had made many heavy duty parts for his VX including the tie rods.

Some of my fav Swordy Pic's

[Marlin]

Some of my fav Swordy Pic's

WOW!!!!!
That is all I have to say about that VX and the pics.

As far as tie rods, I have the complete OEM end set, brand new, I am gonna swing by Trident Tech next week and see what they can come up with. If not, I will be callin Indy, I do agree with the do not reinvent the wheel concept, I just want to cover all my options. I am seriously considering going with the Stinky Fab "bent" rear links, they are the lowest part of the VX, and I think would be very susceptible to damage on rocks. They also limit my skid plate options in the rear.
I doubt I will do this before Moab, I will also get some contacts at the Uhwarrie meet. 2 weeks till Uhwarrie, 1 month till Moab!!!!!!!!!

[Triathlete]

I am seriously considering going with the Stinky Fab "bent" rear links, they are the lowest part of the VX, and I think would be very susceptible to damage on rocks. They also limit my skid plate options in the rear.
I doubt I will do this before Moab, I will also get some contacts at the Uhwarrie meet. 2 weeks till Uhwarrie, 1 month till Moab!!!!!!!!!

Check for fitment on the bent links. They may hit on your slider mounts. This has been a problem in the past. Another option is to have your stock links "sleeved". Have a fab shop cut off one end, sleeve it and then weld the end back on. Or they can just build you a set of heavy duty links.

[rowhard]

If you want heavy duty you'd definately want something a bit bigger than stock. I looked at one of Indy's at the San Diego meet (Rickshaw has a pair) and the rod ends are a lot beefier than stock.

of course, I was just assuming that the weak link of the tie rod was the center piece. You could step up to any truck rod end, as long as dia. and length is correct and have the 1 inch hex stock drilled and tapped accordingly