high mileage vs synthetic oil

[bentcipher]

Hey everyone... figured I'd chime in on this one. This topic was always of interest to me and a few years back I finally sat down and researched the crap out of it as I got tired of the guesswork and needed certain answers.

First of all, I'll apologize up front for this is going to be a LONG POST!

TO ANYONE CURRENTLY USING FRAM OIL FILTERS IN THEIR VEHICLES:

Remove that piece of sh*t now! It is absolutely one of the worst things you can use in your Vx/vehicle! Remove it, even if you still have plenty of miles left 'till your oil change or just did a fresh one. Those FRAM filters have many weak points almost on every level - flow rate, efficiency, structural integrity (collapsing), etc...

>> FILTERS
I've done a veeery extensive search on the filters (short of bench-testing) and pretty much concluded that I will only use one of the two brands of oil filters.

Mobil 1
Purolator PureONE

Both filters are the same in a sense that they outperform pretty much anything else out there, but there is a slight difference between the two:
- Mobil 1 has a high-flow rate: that is the amount of oil per minute through the filter
- PureONE has a higher density material and able to capture particles smaller that Mobil 1, but the trade off is your flow rate is lower so you don't pump as many gallons per minute as Mobil 1

So you've got to ask what vehicle will perform better with which oil filter.

On my 1993 Mazda RX7 and Vx I use Mobil 1 because I tend to keep it closer to redline

On my Econolines at work we use PureOne since it's mostly low RP, idling, etc..


>> OIL
I use Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 10W-30 on the Vx that I switched back when my mileage was in high 50's. It gradually increased fuel economy and noticeably "livelier" motor response. I mean she zooms! And that's not easy for a vehicle like Vx with 4wd and that much weight.

BTW, whenever you go from mineral to synthetic oil, you should do that in stages, adding more synthetic blend (25-30%) each oil change until full synthetic.. and you want to do it around 50k or so while the motor is still fresh. For motors over 75k I'd probably just stick with the stuff you're already using.

On all my other vehicles I use Castrol GTX 5w-30, 10w-30 because it is a good performing mineral oil. It doesn't break down like Quaker state or Pennzoil, imho. We use Castrol GTX on our vans because it is budget-friendly and I use it on my RX7 because I can't use synthetic in a rotary motor.

Now, for those who don't know - RX7s are very sensitive to the kind of oil you use because it is such a major part of engine operation (it actually injects oil with fuel.. so burning oil is part of the FI process, not just lubrication). So when you change to a different brand, you notice it. Personally, the best results I got was with Castrol GTX by far. Didn't burn as much, motor ran smoother... "lighter" - quicker throttle response, temperatures a lot more consistent. Other brans I used were Valvoline, Pennzoil, and Quaker State and I've have two Rx7s that I've driven in Central Florida since 1997 so I've got enough years of experimentation

==========
So I hope this helps. Please remember that the feedback I posted here is based on my personal experience. It may vary for others. Sorry again for the long post but remembering my personal turmoil of not knowing for sure I will jump at the opportunity to share my experience with others the best I can.

Cheers!

[bentcipher]

My neighbor has a 1995 Ford Taurus - it's hitting like 385k - he uses Castrol GTX high mileage oil, every 2k miles religiously. It's a POS car but it runs like a champ!

[Gussie2000]

My neighbor has a 1995 Ford Taurus - it's hitting like 385k - he uses Castrol GTX high mileage oil, every 2k miles religiously. It's a POS car but it runs like a champ!

You are absolutely right,mobil 1 filter is the way to go,i don't play games with that stuff neither.

My VX is 560 miles away from new oil change & already bought my 6 pack bottle mobil 1 10w-30 with filter. The filter # is M 1104 for you guys who wanna give a try.

I'll make that few miles comes shorter,i'll be driving to binghampton (upstate NY) 380 miles round trip on friday morning to vist few friends & also take some pics of the rampage that took place at the inmigration helping center guys

[TheGanzman]

Is that Mobil 1 filter the "longer" variety? I read somewhere that you can upgrade to a longer filter; the one on my VX is like 3 inches long...

[Cobrajet]

Is that Mobil 1 filter the "longer" variety? I read somewhere that you can upgrade to a longer filter; the one on my VX is like 3 inches long...

I've used Mobil1 M1-104 filters since my first oil change, and I've now got 117,500 on my VX. I did a Google search a few minutes ago and found a thread on the Acura MDX site where a guy says he was able to install the longer M1-105 filter on his MDX. I've got my last M1-104 sitting on the shelf, so I may try to find an M1-105 for my 120K tuneup.

[etlsport]

I've used Mobil1 M1-104 filters since my first oil change, and I've now got 117,500 on my VX. I did a Google search a few minutes ago and found a thread on the Acura MDX site where a guy says he was able to install the longer M1-105 filter on his MDX. I've got my last M1-104 sitting on the shelf, so I may try to find an M1-105 for my 120K tuneup.

cool! def report how that goes.. the M1-104 filter is so hard to find around here since its such a common filter.. my local advanced was out of stock for like 2 weeks during their last mobil1 oil change special

[newthings]

FROM AN EDMONDS BLOG ON ULTIMATE AWD --

Please be advised that Castrol Syntec 5W-30 DOES NOT meet the necessary oil specifications required for any BMW built since at least the late 1990s. Running that oil is a recipe for a sludged engine and a refusal from your dealership/BMW for warranty repairs if/when the engine fails. The only Castrol Syntec that meets the BMW LongLife-98 and LongLife-01 oil specifications (equired for every gasoline powered BMW sold this decade is Syntec 0W-30. That said, you can buy a Castrol produced oil under the BMW label from your dealership that is in fact a 5W-30, but make no mistake, that is NOT the same oil as is in the Castrol Syntec 5W-30 bottle.

For all who buy their own oil, the only two generally available LL-01 oils sold here in the U.S. are Mobil 1 0W-40 and Castrol Syntec 0W-30.

Best regards,
Shipo

[TheGanzman]

I've used Mobil1 M1-104 filters since my first oil change, and I've now got 117,500 on my VX. I did a Google search a few minutes ago and found a thread on the Acura MDX site where a guy says he was able to install the longer M1-105 filter on his MDX. I've got my last M1-104 sitting on the shelf, so I may try to find an M1-105 for my 120K tuneup.

Just as an FYI - I just did my first oil change on my 60K mile VX, and installed the M1-105 filter (also filled up with slightly over 5 quarts of Mobil 1 10W-30 Full Synthetic). Seems to be fine, with no leaks, though the "O-Ring" style gasket and larger diameter concerned me initially. Also, the larger diameter puts the filter w/in 1/4" of the harmonic balancer; I don't think this will be a problem though, since even if the engine "torqued" upon heavy acceleration, it SHOULD torque AWAY from the filter. Has anyone else gone to the larger Mobil 1 M1-105 filter yet?

[Y33TREKker]

While I'm not sure what each of the specific abbreviations in the Typical Properties sections refers to, it does appear as if there are differences in the formulations of regular vs. high mileage oils offered by Mobil-1.

The Features - Advantages and Potential Benefits section also give brief laymens descriptions of what the formulation is intended to do.

Mobil 1 - Regular 10W-30 Synthetic

Mobil 1 - High Mileage 10W-30 & 10W-40 Synthetics

My $.02 on that filter study would be that the date of the study would also have to be considered (filter technology changes just like everything else), plus, not every filter in a filter companys' lineup is made by that same company. There are a few companies that make filters, and they put whatever label a second company that buys those filters for resale wants them to. Is it not curious that some of those filters look just like their competitors when taken apart? Basically, if you buy a cheap filter, you generally get what you pay for, but if you spring for a more expensive filter, (even by the same "company/manufacturer", you'll generally get a better product.

I think the main comparison between dino (regular) oils and synthetics is that while the viscosities may be listed as being the same, it's how each one flows at it's rated temperature extremes that is most important. We've all probably either added oil to or changed oil in an engine when the snow has been flying at some point, and seen how the pour-rate of a dino oil changes at those lower temps. Well that's also how it flows through an engine at those lower temps until it gets heated up. Synthetics don't have that problem since their viscosities are engineered to remain more constant through their rated temperature extremes, meaning that they simply flow better when cold, and don't get thinner/break-down as much when hot when compared to dino oils. As a result, they offer more consistent engine protection.

(That's also why a 10W-30 or 10W-40 synthetic can be used in place of a regular 5W-30 oil. With more and more vehicles using engines with overhead cam systems, etc, synthetics can get to all the places it needs to easier because of the more consistent flow rates).

[VX KAT]

Oops, my bad...since the link was different, I "assumed" it was different.

[psychos2]

I use carquest filters as they are made by Wix . shawn

[BeeVenom]

The one thing i became aware of is that the 'high mileage' oils tend to have additives that 'address' your oil seals. In other words, stuff in it that helps swell up 'old' seals and gaskets thus helping to prevent drying out gaskets and minimizing oil leaks. Other than that, don't know what else is different about them.