high mileage vs synthetic oil

[etlsport]

im now over 80k miles.. my vx is growing up so fast!

heres my question.. my last 40k have been run with mobil1 full synthetic almost exclusively.. (5w30 and 10w30 depending on season/availability) but now im wondering if it would be better to switch to high mileage formulas or to just stick with regular synthetic.. i havent seen a high mileage specific synthetic.. anyone make one of them?

and i always run a mobil1 filter (except this last change, i got a K&N oil filter at a great price)

[Gussie2000]

Hi eric !

It's a good question,i think it all depends on your perception about if your believe high mileage oil formulas really do the job it was design for;I recall driving my little GEO tracker with more the 100R & used regular oil & never had any issues.

All high mileage oil products just says it's design for the high mileage cars,but doesn't certainly explains whats differs from the regular oil products & they all cost the same price so i don't get it

I guess expert advice is the way to go to clear any doubts

[VCrossfan]

My 2 cents is that oil makers are wanting to cover every field they can, since cars are lasting longer than from the 70's/early 80's there marketing High Mileage, Heavy use, Higher RPM's, SUV, Light Truck, Heavy Truck etc... Is there much or any difference I don't know...But as we all know the oil companies can do and say anything they want with minimal regulations from the government... I'm at 152k miles and have used Mobil1 for the last 70k and I don't see myself ever changing brands/types. 5w-30 Winter and 15w-50 in the summer. They do make a High Mileage 10w-30 and 10w-40

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...s/Mobil_1.aspx

[Mark B]

I use high mileage GTX 10w 30 in my Isuzu Amigo which has 115,000 miles.
I switched from Mobile 1 at around 80,000.
I don't know if it helps. I don't see any difference.
But advertising works. It makes you think that you are doing something special for your vehicle.

[CoastieCosta567]

i use 10w-40 high milage oil and works great, the diffrence i have seen sence starting to use it for the past 2 years is i have seen better milage, not much but a little better, and most noticeable is the burning of the oil, it does not burn as much thats it, and i got a oil gasket cracked before on the oil pan when i hit a rock and it starting leacking through and thats when i chanced to 10w-40 high milage and what i saw also it stop leaking, so i guess it's thicker as well. but i have been thinking if i should change to full synthetic soon, to see if i see a diffrence.

[Marlin]

Not sure what the PO used, but I use Quaker State 4x4 Torque synthetic. It is a bit cheaper than the Castrol synthetic, but I use it in both my toys. Another good question, how about oil filters, I personally use the FRAM tough filter, but I am gonna guess that they are all about the same.
Speaking of maintenance, I replaced my fuel filter today, I swear it runs better and better throttle response. I am pretty sure it was the original filter at 117K miles.
My fuel pressure regulator will be here tuesday. Cleaned the TPS, which wasn't really all that dirty. New dielectric grease in most of the connections under the hood.
All in all, as far as oil, I think that as long as you do it regularly and use the appropriate weight for your weather, they probably all work out the same. (I am still gonna run synthetic)

[Gussie2000]

Not sure what the PO used, but I use Quaker State 4x4 Torque synthetic. It is a bit cheaper than the Castrol synthetic, but I use it in both my toys. Another good question, how about oil filters, I personally use the FRAM tough filter, but I am gonna guess that they are all about the same.
Speaking of maintenance, I replaced my fuel filter today, I swear it runs better and better throttle response. I am pretty sure it was the original filter at 117K miles.
My fuel pressure regulator will be here tuesday. Cleaned the TPS, which wasn't really all that dirty. New dielectric grease in most of the connections under the hood.
All in all, as far as oil, I think that as long as you do it regularly and use the appropriate weight for your weather, they probably all work out the same. (I am still gonna run synthetic)

That oil seems to be good quality though,i consider this # 1 on my list if mobil 1 ever ran out of stock.

[BigSwede]

80K isn't high mileage, at least not in my book. I use Mobil One in my Trooper, 128K miles, doesn't burn any oil so no reason to change.

[twistedsymphony]

if you have a formula that works, then there is no reason to change.

you might see some detrimental effects switching from regular oil to synthetic on higher mileage vehicles because sludge builds up around the gaskets and in crevices with regular oil and synthetic will clear that out, and while that might sound like a good thing, consider that the build up also keeps those areas from seeping oil...

I've had more than one car that started burning and leaking oil after switching to synthetic.

some older sensors have problems with synthetic oil as well and the synthetics can gum them up... I have a friend who is a Subaru Technician, apparently the owners manuals stated to NOT used ANY synthetics in their motors, and there are only certain tested brands that they'll let you use without voiding your warranty.

synthetics are nice sometimes but it's not a clear cut better oil than the regular stuff.

-----------

as for filters, they're much more important than the oil you use... every mechanic and oil filter comparison I've seen has revealed 2 things

1. there are really only 4-5 filter manufacturers and most companies buy one of those and re brand it, (though there are sometimes subtle differences)
2. 90% of the filters out there are COMPLETE GARBAGE

kind of old but here is some good info on picking the right oil filter:
http://www.knizefamily.net/minimopar...ers/index.html

I use either K&N, Mobile 1 or Purolator in my cars, depending on which one I can get cheaper (they all have the same manufacturer). though the best filter you can get is made by "WIX" who make filters for most OEMs as well as the generic NAPA band.

FRAM is down right horrible, you'd be better off stuffing cheesecloth in a can.

[nfpgasmask]

I buy the regular 10W40 or the the High Mileage stuff. I actually think the High Mileage formula runs pretty good in my VX.

Bart

[VX KAT]

A VX forum member posted link to this study a while back, can't recall who it was, but it certainly gives you clearer understanding of the differences between oil filters and confirms there are big differences.

http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfi...lterstudy.html

I just picked up a Royal Purple oil filter at Pep Boys, first time I've seen one by RP. I'll use it next oil change.

[WormGod]

My VX runs with Royal Purple 10w30 w/ Fram filter. I just gave her a fresh change yesterday in the garage actually. Of course my VX only gets about 3k miles a year and 1 oil change a year. Each change I am always draining very clean oil that looks like it could go another 3k and am usually only 1/4 to 1/2 qt low, if at all. 49k on the clock.

I don't really fall for that "older vehicles should use a different oil". I have had vehicles with up to near 200k on the clock and none of them even used synthetic. Never had any major engine issues with any of them. I gave one ('90 Amigo) a valve job just to relieve some slight knocking but it wasn't really needed. I guess if this "geriatric vehicle oil" is no different in price, it wouldn't hurt, but I certainly wouldn't pay any more. Maybe the stuff works as advertised, I dunno. Never used it, heh. I would definitely research it to see just what the advantages are if I decided to though.

[CoastieCosta567]

[QUOTE=WormGod;153833]My VX runs with Royal Purple 10w30 w/ Fram filter. I just gave her a fresh change yesterday in the garage actually. Of course my VX only gets about 3k miles a year and 1 oil change a year. Each change I am always draining very clean oil that looks like it could go another 3k and am usually only 1/4 to 1/2 qt low, if at all. 49k on the clock.
QUOTE]

How it run wormgod? i've been thinking of putting that on, but was not sure if it was to rich.

[Maverick]

Ive been using "regular" mobil one since i bought my truck (had around 55k on it iirc).. i now have 174k on the clock, no issues and runs no different than it did at 55k...oil changes every 5k, 98% highway driving..

maybe i should switch to high mileage oil now....

[bentcipher]

Hey everyone... figured I'd chime in on this one. This topic was always of interest to me and a few years back I finally sat down and researched the crap out of it as I got tired of the guesswork and needed certain answers.

First of all, I'll apologize up front for this is going to be a LONG POST!

TO ANYONE CURRENTLY USING FRAM OIL FILTERS IN THEIR VEHICLES:

Remove that piece of sh*t now! It is absolutely one of the worst things you can use in your Vx/vehicle! Remove it, even if you still have plenty of miles left 'till your oil change or just did a fresh one. Those FRAM filters have many weak points almost on every level - flow rate, efficiency, structural integrity (collapsing), etc...

>> FILTERS
I've done a veeery extensive search on the filters (short of bench-testing) and pretty much concluded that I will only use one of the two brands of oil filters.

Mobil 1
Purolator PureONE

Both filters are the same in a sense that they outperform pretty much anything else out there, but there is a slight difference between the two:
- Mobil 1 has a high-flow rate: that is the amount of oil per minute through the filter
- PureONE has a higher density material and able to capture particles smaller that Mobil 1, but the trade off is your flow rate is lower so you don't pump as many gallons per minute as Mobil 1

So you've got to ask what vehicle will perform better with which oil filter.

On my 1993 Mazda RX7 and Vx I use Mobil 1 because I tend to keep it closer to redline

On my Econolines at work we use PureOne since it's mostly low RP, idling, etc..


>> OIL
I use Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 10W-30 on the Vx that I switched back when my mileage was in high 50's. It gradually increased fuel economy and noticeably "livelier" motor response. I mean she zooms! And that's not easy for a vehicle like Vx with 4wd and that much weight.

BTW, whenever you go from mineral to synthetic oil, you should do that in stages, adding more synthetic blend (25-30%) each oil change until full synthetic.. and you want to do it around 50k or so while the motor is still fresh. For motors over 75k I'd probably just stick with the stuff you're already using.

On all my other vehicles I use Castrol GTX 5w-30, 10w-30 because it is a good performing mineral oil. It doesn't break down like Quaker state or Pennzoil, imho. We use Castrol GTX on our vans because it is budget-friendly and I use it on my RX7 because I can't use synthetic in a rotary motor.

Now, for those who don't know - RX7s are very sensitive to the kind of oil you use because it is such a major part of engine operation (it actually injects oil with fuel.. so burning oil is part of the FI process, not just lubrication). So when you change to a different brand, you notice it. Personally, the best results I got was with Castrol GTX by far. Didn't burn as much, motor ran smoother... "lighter" - quicker throttle response, temperatures a lot more consistent. Other brans I used were Valvoline, Pennzoil, and Quaker State and I've have two Rx7s that I've driven in Central Florida since 1997 so I've got enough years of experimentation

==========
So I hope this helps. Please remember that the feedback I posted here is based on my personal experience. It may vary for others. Sorry again for the long post but remembering my personal turmoil of not knowing for sure I will jump at the opportunity to share my experience with others the best I can.

Cheers!