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Thread: trooper diff. compatibility

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  1. #1
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    A lincoln locker works by using an open diff and welding the spider gears together using your Lincoln brand welder. I have never heard of someone using an LSD to accomplish this but that is not to say it is impossible. But it is full of parts, so I wouldn't recommend it. Some axles have aftermarket spools available which is the lightest diff you can get, no moving parts, no extra weight, just a collar that splines the axle shafts together and has a flange to bolt the ring gear to. Simple and cheap but only available for a few axles.
    Sent from my "two hands on a keyboard"

  2. #2
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    ok, so....

    it seems like the ARB stuff is very expensive, but in the end you end up spending the same for ARB as you would an 'aussie' locker because you need to buy the extra 3rd member? and the ARB can be 'turned on and off' in a way?

    all in all, your looking at what? about 1200-1500 depending on how much the shop charges to put it in??
    "Do Not Seek Praise. Seek Criticism."

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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by pbkid View Post
    ok, so....

    it seems like the ARB stuff is very expensive, but in the end you end up spending the same for ARB as you would an 'aussie' locker because you need to buy the extra 3rd member? and the ARB can be 'turned on and off' in a way?

    all in all, your looking at what? about 1200-1500 depending on how much the shop charges to put it in??
    In no particular order...
    (sounds less condescending that way...)

    Matt sold me my used "open" carrier out of a Trooper for around $50.00+ shipping, so they aren't that expensive...

    Any parts for an Isuzu corp. 12 bolt rear end (the number of bolts that attach the ring gear to the carrier) should work in the VX rear axle.
    A standard limited slip carrier won't accept an Aussie locker, or an ARB, IIRC.

    No I haven't got mine in yet, it's installed in the carrier, all goobered up with Mobil 1 syn grease for pre lube, all the tolerances are within spec, I've got a full set of shims, new bearings, & 13 (just in case ) new ring gear bolts...
    Just no warm weather or jing to finish the job.
    Justin, correct me if I'm wrong, but setting the lash shouldn't be that hard, since , in theory, the pinion shouldn't have to come out of the third...
    Or am I lookin' at this wrong?

  4. #4
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    oh ok, thats not too bad then....around 500-600 in parts??? maybe a few hundred in labor if i had a shop do it??

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by pbkid View Post
    oh ok, thats not too bad then....around 500-600 in parts??? maybe a few hundred in labor if i had a shop do it??
    Let's wait for the Zeusters response, he has FAR more experience with setting up gears than I do.
    On my best day, I might have a rudimentary grasp of the "how to's" of setting up gears...
    I have a local homie that'll set em' up for me for fiddy, but I have to do all the R & R, & bring em' to his shop for the setup.
    Pulling the sensors has me a little cautious, as even seasond pros (Jerry Lemond) have trouble sometimes, getting them out in reusable condition...

  6. #6
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    hmmm...so once again, when i do mine, its best to have a shop do it so i dont have to worry about the sensors because it would be their responsibility to make sure they are removed and replaced properly...

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ldub View Post
    Let's wait for the Zeusters response, he has FAR more experience with setting up gears than I do.
    On my best day, I might have a rudimentary grasp of the "how to's" of setting up gears...
    I don't have that much experience with gear setup, actually. I have participated in a couple of builds on Jeep axles and witnessed the practice, but that's 'bout it. I do think you are correct about setting the preload on the pinion shaft. You shouldn't have to mess with that at all, unless you want to put in a new pinion seal. However, when swapping out the LSD for anything else, you should make sure the gears mesh correctly again. But the guidline is to use the shims that were used for the stock diff in their original locations first, as a starting point. From there, you may or may not have to add, remove, or relocate shims. So it is nice to have shims in hand in case you do need them.

    And Jack, I think your estimate is right for the Aussie Locker parts. What I was trying to say is, when having someone set up your diff, whether you wish to install an ARB or an Aussie, they should charge you the same. You will have to drill and tap for the air line though as well. So yeah, to run an ARB, it should cost around $1200 in parts. The Aussie plus carrier/3rd is far less at $5-600 in parts. The install charge of either diff should be about equal though.

    Regarding the sensors, that is a personal call. The difference in cost to have a shop work on a removed 3rd versus an installed axle assembly is massive!

  8. #8
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    ok, are the sensors something that could just be ordered for the new 3rd?? that way you dont have to worry about taking them out of the old one?

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