CarSystem Refinish Restorer

[twistedsymphony]

back on topic... I put this stuff on my VX last fall... and the cladding still looks great even after driving it daily through the hard New England Winter and dozens of washes

it's hard to say if it's faded at all... but let me at least say that it doesn't even need to be freshened up or anything...

FWIW I pained it on... basically took a horsehair brush and a small hand held paint container and pained the cladding with it, after 15 minutes I wiped it all off with a shop rag.

it didn't damage the paint or any of the bumper lights

one bad thing is that it pooled up a little bit in a couple of the bolt holes, I think I didn't wipe it out as well as I could have and there are 2 bolts that have a 1/2" drip streak below them (which has also lasted the winter and is still visible today) but the rest of them came out a-ok... so just make sure you wipe it off well.


everyone thinks my VX is a brand new car... they're shocked when I tell them it's 10 years old and has 120 thousand miles on it

[VX KAT]

I put the Restore/Refinish by CARSYSTEM on all my cladding, it's AMAZING STUFF! Cladding has a bit of a satin finish and a touch darker.

PROCESS:
~I Windexed all the cladding first to get ANY remaining, anything off. I'd let my cladding go naked for a full 2 months now, in preparation for this R/R stuff, so it was pretty dried out.
~Then rubbed down with plain water on lint-free microfiber cloth.
~I used painter's tape to tape off all painted areas adjacent to cladding.
~I poured some of the R/R into a small metal tin can.
~WEAR GLOVES ! Do in very well ventilated area! Strong stuff! I did it in garage with door open.
~I dipped part of a folded microfiber cloth (80/20%) that was lint-free into the R/R liquid. Shook off excess dripping liquid.
~Applied it to cladding in horizontal strokes, as evenly as possible.
~I discovered by doing it with a cloth instead of a paintbrush of any kind, you don't get any excess liquid pooling in the cladding screws, and no running of the liquid anywhere.
~You'll want to get this stuff on and spread evenly. The directions say to wait 10 minutes then rub off excess with another clean lint-free cloth. When I first tried to do so, I found the surface was pretty tacky and the cloth just kind of stuck to it and disrupted the smooth finish and made marks. So, I quickly realized, by applying it with the cloth, there really is NO EXCESS to remove.
~Reapplied a 2nd coat to areas I smudged up with the dry cloth.
~Did all remaining cladding panels.
~Applied to hood insert. This was the hardest part to apply in even strokes, just 'cause it's awkward...but you taller folks will have no problem.
~When back door was open to get access to all parts of rear cladding, I decided this stuff just might be good for some INTERIOR areas too.
~So I applied it to rear door interior panel and it looked great!
~My rear door threshold area is quite scuffed, so I applied it heavily there too. Worked great.
~Also applied several coats to the door thresholds/sill areas.
~Let it dry overnight in garage.
~Entire garage still had pretty strong fumes in am.
~Applied second coat next day.
~Also did interior door panels, just one coat.
~Think I'm going to do the interior from front seats rearward.
~It looks fantastic. Nice satin finish, not too shiny. Makes it look like brand new.

TIPS:
**Because this stuff gets pretty sticky/tacky as it's drying, EVERY little airborne particle will stick to it before it's dry. So expect a few hairs, specs etc...I have a few. Keep cotton towels AWAY from area, the little lint balls that shed from them kept getting stuck in the stuff.

**A little goes a LONG LONG way, as everyone else has said! It's a one liter can, which is just a hair over one quart (33.82 oz). After applying two coats all the way around, and a few interior panels. I MAY have used about 5 oz.

**I don't know if the heat will affect the stuff on the hood insert over time. I didn't see any warning not to do it there.

**I'm letting it sit with open windows to air it out.

It sure was $52 bucks well spent!

[Chopper]

I've been wearing mine for 8 months now. I put on 3 or 4 coats, but it looks as good as when it first went on...great product! Now....what do I do with the $250.00 worth of Gator coating I'd bought? hahahahaha

[rowhard]

I've been wearing mine for 8 months now. I put on 3 or 4 coats, but it looks as good as when it first went on...great product! Now....what do I do with the $250.00 worth of Gator coating I'd bought? hahahahaha

how much you want to sell it for? I am going to take a medium followed by a fine scotch brite pads to remove all of the blemishes, cowboy pinstrips, what have you then refinish it. It's either the Gatorback or paint it with cladding paint, little more involved, but will be good when done.

[Gussie2000]

I put the Restore/Refinish by CARSYSTEM on all my cladding, it's AMAZING STUFF! Cladding has a bit of a satin finish and a touch darker.

PROCESS:
~I Windexed all the cladding first to get ANY remaining, anything off. I'd let my cladding go naked for a full 2 months now, in preparation for this R/R stuff, so it was pretty dried out.
~Then rubbed down with plain water on lint-free microfiber cloth.
~I used painter's tape to tape off all painted areas adjacent to cladding.
~I poured some of the R/R into a small metal tin can.
~WEAR GLOVES ! Do in very well ventilated area! Strong stuff! I did it in garage with door open.
~I dipped part of a folded microfiber cloth (80/20%) that was lint-free into the R/R liquid. Shook off excess dripping liquid.
~Applied it to cladding in horizontal strokes, as evenly as possible.
~I discovered by doing it with a cloth instead of a paintbrush of any kind, you don't get any excess liquid pooling in the cladding screws, and no running of the liquid anywhere.
~You'll want to get this stuff on and spread evenly. The directions say to wait 10 minutes then rub off excess with another clean lint-free cloth. When I first tried to do so, I found the surface was pretty tacky and the cloth just kind of stuck to it and disrupted the smooth finish and made marks. So, I quickly realized, by applying it with the cloth, there really is NO EXCESS to remove.
~Reapplied a 2nd coat to areas I smudged up with the dry cloth.
~Did all remaining cladding panels.
~Applied to hood insert. This was the hardest part to apply in even strokes, just 'cause it's awkward...but you taller folks will have no problem.
~When back door was open to get access to all parts of rear cladding, I decided this stuff just might be good for some INTERIOR areas too.
~So I applied it to rear door interior panel and it looked great!
~My rear door threshold area is quite scuffed, so I applied it heavily there too. Worked great.
~Also applied several coats to the door thresholds/sill areas.
~Let it dry overnight in garage.
~Entire garage still had pretty strong fumes in am.
~Applied second coat next day.
~Also did interior door panels, just one coat.
~Think I'm going to do the interior from front seats rearward.
~It looks fantastic. Nice satin finish, not too shiny. Makes it look like brand new.

TIPS:
**Because this stuff gets pretty sticky/tacky as it's drying, EVERY little airborne particle will stick to it before it's dry. So expect a few hairs, specs etc...I have a few. Keep cotton towels AWAY from area, the little lint balls that shed from them kept getting stuck in the stuff.

**A little goes a LONG LONG way, as everyone else has said! It's a one liter can, which is just a hair over one quart (33.82 oz). After applying two coats all the way around, and a few interior panels. I MAY have used about 5 oz.

**I don't know if the heat will affect the stuff on the hood insert over time. I didn't see any warning not to do it there.

**I'm letting it sit with open windows to air it out.

It sure was $52 bucks well spent!

Hey sue can you tell me where did you bought the kit ?

I'm interested doing the same application with my cladding.

I've been using this black out silicone formula since i bought my horse.

It takes me around 10 minutes to apply the silicone,thereafter i use a clean towel just to removed any accumulated dust & pollen to keep shiny

[VX KAT]

Hey sue can you tell me where did you bought the kit ?

I'm interested doing the same application with my cladding.

Here ya go Gussie!
http://yhst-13811118617756.stores.ya.../carere1l.html

I think this is the only place any of us have found to buy this stuff. If I could find a place to get a secure metal canister that wouldn't leak I'd be able to sell you half of mine. Like I said I used maybe 5 oz of the 33+ oz in can. I'm going to do some of Dave's trim on the FJ, but still I'll NEVER use all this stuff. This can came with a seal inside the top (like the kind on milk cartons now with the pull tab ring). Want me to look into seeing if I can find an appropriate type of can to ship it in?

[Petos]

Hi, folks, I applied R/R on my VX last week-end and made a bad mistake... applied with a brush, and decided to take a break before wiping off the excess... unfortunately, a football game was on tv and l lost control of the time... when I came back, it turned out R/R already dried up and it was impossible to wipe it off... and now I have ugly streaks all over my plastic, which also collected some dust and do look awful...
any suggestions on how to deal with this will be very much appreciated!

[Ldub]

Hi, folks, I applied R/R on my VX last week-end and made a bad mistake... applied with a brush, and decided to take a break before wiping off the excess... unfortunately, a football game was on tv and l lost control of the time... when I came back, it turned out R/R already dried up and it was impossible to wipe it off... and now I have ugly streaks all over my plastic, which also collected some dust and do look awful...
any suggestions on how to deal with this will be very much appreciated!

In an area that is least noticable, try re-applying a fresh coat with a sponge or wax applicator.
You might get lucky, & find that the restorer, in liquid form, MAY dissolve the dried stuff & even out the appearance...
I have no experience with this stuff, so it's a WAG on my part...

[Riff Raff]

PETOS--- Refinish Restorer turns into a varnish-like hard coating very simular to varnished wood furniture if not buffed-off within 10 minutes (per instructions) after application.

Excess build-up can be removed with a "terpintine substitute" per the manufacturer's instructions. Basically, use paint thinner on a rag and lots and lots of elbow grease to get it off. Be sure and wear a face mask or enjoy getting high off the paint thinner fumes.

For the official manufacturer's instructions, please do a "search" for specific thread entitled: "Alternative To Gatorback - Faded Cladding Solutions"

Once at the thread, then scroll-down and look at Posting #30

In addition, a printable "PDF" file is also available by clicking on the "link" in Posting #30

[vt_maverick]

Excess build-up can be removed with a "terpintine substitute" per the manufacturer's instructions. Basically, use paint thinner on a rag and lots and lots of elbow grease to get it off. Be sure and wear a face mask or enjoy getting high off the paint thinner fumes.

Yikes! I don't know if I would try that with the cladding still on the vehicle... can't imagine what paint thinner would do to the paint if you slipped.

[VX KAT]

I ended up putting on too thin of a coat the first time last June because I used a soaked rag, and since then, the front bumper has had some slight flaking off I believe from wind and abrasion.

So I hit it yesterday cuz it hit 68 degrees, the min. for working with this stuff. I used a foam brush which worked much better and it looks great. I actually applied it generously, then brushed and brushed to keep it from slowly dripping. After about 7-8 mins it gets thicker and it stops dripping and the brush strokes disappear for a nice even, satin finish. Doesn't really darken the cladding (unfortunately) or cover up any discolorations but it sure makes it look brand new otherwise.

This hard coating will last for years now I believe....and there's still at least 8 or 9 applications remaining in the can.

[Grif]

Hi, folks, I applied R/R on my VX last week-end and made a bad mistake... applied with a brush, and decided to take a break before wiping off the excess... unfortunately, a football game was on tv and l lost control of the time... when I came back, it turned out R/R already dried up and it was impossible to wipe it off... and now I have ugly streaks all over my plastic, which also collected some dust and do look awful...
any suggestions on how to deal with this will be very much appreciated!

I would try a heavy coat to loosen up the existing application, let sit 5 mins MAXIMUM, and wipe off the excess with a microfiber cloth. I used the kind of microfiber cloths designed for cleaning windows and camera lenses. Not the fuzzy kind, use the with a real smooth very tight weave, almost like satin. You will ruin your expensive cloth, but additional lint sticking to the cladding will not be an issue. Hopefully it will take off the accumulated dust too. After your heavy coat to try to work out the errant dust etc... try a couple more VERY light coats one coat later that night, and one the next day to completely work out he swirls and streaks. I'm not an expert with this stuff, but have used it enough to get a feel for its qualities.

[Petos]

Cheers, guys... I will give it a shot (apply another coat and whipe it off hoping that it will loosen up the existing excess), and post on the result.. thanks again
Petos