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Thread: CarSystem Refinish Restorer

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  1. #1
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    Quote Originally Posted by VX KAT View Post
    Thanks, I saw that, but the prep seemed vague. Do I need to try and get all of the other crap off that I have tried.
    Greetings, Earthling. We come in peace... Never mind "Paris to Dakar", the VehiCROSS looks ready for the Martian desert.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by rowhard View Post
    Do I need to try and get all of the other crap off that I have tried.
    I would try to get any other products off if they are freshly applied.

  3. #3
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    I'm gonna buy some of this stuff too, even though my cladding still looks like new. My advice for "prepping" is BrakeKleen (in the red can) - it will remove EVERYTHING that is on there, and leave ZERO residual - you'll have a perfect palette for this product, IMHO...

  4. #4
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    Wouldn't BrakeKleen be a little too harsh for the cladding? If that is the stuff that is made to clean gunk off of engine blocks it may melt the cladding. I would try it on a hidden area first to make sure it doesn't do any damage.
    "The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong, it usually turns out to be impossible to get at or repair."
    -Douglas Adams, Mostly Harmless

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by MSHardeman View Post
    Wouldn't BrakeKleen be a little too harsh for the cladding? If that is the stuff that is made to clean gunk off of engine blocks it may melt the cladding. I would try it on a hidden area first to make sure it doesn't do any damage.
    Categorically NOT the same thing! It's primarily designed to clean off drum/disc brake surfaces and brake parts prior to reassembly; as such, it's designed to leave NO chemical residue whatsoever! While it is invasive on SOME plastics, I don't think there would be a problem on the cladding - of course, try it in an inconspicuous place first...

  6. #6
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    What about using Windex to prep it? I recall somebody has been using Windex on the cladding to make it look good. So it apparently doesn't dry it out too bad...maybe it would be a pretty good prep solution to get off most of the "oily" type products we've put on it (Back to Black, etc...)
    VX KAT
    ....the adventure BEGINS ANEW! ...2015......
    Remember that life is not measured in the breaths you take, but rather in the moments that take your breath away.

  7. #7
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    If you have used a silicon-based product in the last year, I would try to clean it off first. Any wild organic solvent will work for that.

    The "oily products" come off by themselves (which is their problem, of course). If you put any of them on recently, then maybe it would be worth removing prior to refinishing. Brakekleen sounds like it would be way too harsh!

    Otherwise, just wash normally & dry thoroughly. Be mindful of the Torx-head cladding screws - use compressed air to get the water out of them. Water seemed to make the product go on somewhat unevenly.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by VX KAT View Post
    What about using Windex to prep it? I recall somebody has been using Windex on the cladding to make it look good. So it apparently doesn't dry it out too bad...maybe it would be a pretty good prep solution to get off most of the "oily" type products we've put on it (Back to Black, etc...)
    ROWHARD--- I would try the WINDEX idea first on a sample cladding location, as it is an extremely "mild" cleaner and won't harm anything. If that doesn't work well; then upgrade to 409 Cleaner, as 409 is a bit more powerful than WINDEX. It is always wiser to begin with a mild type cleaner, and then gradually upgrade to a stronger cleaner as required to accomplish the mission. SIMPLE GREEN; might be an option, too. AIM HIGH!!!

  9. #9
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    Banned!

    Busted
    Anita
    2000 Ebony #263
    Original Owner- love her too much to part with her.
    AnitaProtich.com

  10. #10
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    Cladding fading

    I was googling at few websites & found this product which i assume some of you folks may have aknowledge of.

    The product is named "Wurth stone guard black aereosol" offered by properautocare.com which offers another option to solve the fading issues our toys suffers from weather.

    http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/classic-motoring_2072_48597565
    Last edited by Gussie2000 : 09/29/2009 at 06:47 PM
    Dakar was just the begining.

  11. #11
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    Figured I'd keep KATs thread going since there is a lot of information in here.

    I've been nearly a year now with my treatment of RR and it still looks nearly like the day I applied it. The only difference (which I see as a positive) is that a bit of the shine has mellowed so it looks a little more like the natural texture of the cladding.

    I'll continue to post an update here and there as the time goes by. I'm going to wash her in the next week or two, so I'll take some good photos to show.

    I think the biggest issue is getting the application right and then hand washing only. Per KATs experience I'm thinking powerwashers are a BAD idea.
    macintosh man

  12. #12
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    some one told be black shoe polish is the best stuff hes used for his clading.. his looks great..its one of those chev.. truck suv things
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]...

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by don moore View Post
    some one told be black shoe polish is the best stuff hes used for his clading.. his looks great..its one of those chev.. truck suv things
    Actually, that crossed my mind...to put shoe polish on, THEN apply the R/R to seal it on...or I contemplated how I might be able to "dye" the R/R....but Dave the chemist reminded me there's probably a ton of things that could go wrong with that type of mixture....so alas, I used it as is and have very nice satiny grayish cladding...shall we start a poll on color?

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