Busted![]()
Busted![]()
Anita
2000 Ebony #263
Original Owner- love her too much to part with her.
AnitaProtich.com
No, for a spammer who is no longer among us...
back on topic... I put this stuff on my VX last fall... and the cladding still looks great even after driving it daily through the hard New England Winter and dozens of washes
it's hard to say if it's faded at all... but let me at least say that it doesn't even need to be freshened up or anything...
FWIW I pained it on... basically took a horsehair brush and a small hand held paint container and pained the cladding with it, after 15 minutes I wiped it all off with a shop rag.
it didn't damage the paint or any of the bumper lights
one bad thing is that it pooled up a little bit in a couple of the bolt holes, I think I didn't wipe it out as well as I could have and there are 2 bolts that have a 1/2" drip streak below them (which has also lasted the winter and is still visible today) but the rest of them came out a-ok... so just make sure you wipe it off well.
everyone thinks my VX is a brand new car... they're shocked when I tell them it's 10 years old and has 120 thousand miles on it![]()
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I put the Restore/Refinish by CARSYSTEM on all my cladding, it's AMAZING STUFF! Cladding has a bit of a satin finish and a touch darker.
PROCESS:
~I Windexed all the cladding first to get ANY remaining, anything off. I'd let my cladding go naked for a full 2 months now, in preparation for this R/R stuff, so it was pretty dried out.
~Then rubbed down with plain water on lint-free microfiber cloth.
~I used painter's tape to tape off all painted areas adjacent to cladding.
~I poured some of the R/R into a small metal tin can.
~WEAR GLOVES ! Do in very well ventilated area! Strong stuff! I did it in garage with door open.
~I dipped part of a folded microfiber cloth (80/20%) that was lint-free into the R/R liquid. Shook off excess dripping liquid.
~Applied it to cladding in horizontal strokes, as evenly as possible.
~I discovered by doing it with a cloth instead of a paintbrush of any kind, you don't get any excess liquid pooling in the cladding screws, and no running of the liquid anywhere.
~You'll want to get this stuff on and spread evenly. The directions say to wait 10 minutes then rub off excess with another clean lint-free cloth. When I first tried to do so, I found the surface was pretty tacky and the cloth just kind of stuck to it and disrupted the smooth finish and made marks. So, I quickly realized, by applying it with the cloth, there really is NO EXCESS to remove.
~Reapplied a 2nd coat to areas I smudged up with the dry cloth.
~Did all remaining cladding panels.
~Applied to hood insert. This was the hardest part to apply in even strokes, just 'cause it's awkward...but you taller folks will have no problem.
~When back door was open to get access to all parts of rear cladding, I decided this stuff just might be good for some INTERIOR areas too.
~So I applied it to rear door interior panel and it looked great!
~My rear door threshold area is quite scuffed, so I applied it heavily there too. Worked great.
~Also applied several coats to the door thresholds/sill areas.
~Let it dry overnight in garage.
~Entire garage still had pretty strong fumes in am.
~Applied second coat next day.
~Also did interior door panels, just one coat.
~Think I'm going to do the interior from front seats rearward.
~It looks fantastic. Nice satin finish, not too shiny. Makes it look like brand new.
TIPS:
**Because this stuff gets pretty sticky/tacky as it's drying, EVERY little airborne particle will stick to it before it's dry. So expect a few hairs, specs etc...I have a few. Keep cotton towels AWAY from area, the little lint balls that shed from them kept getting stuck in the stuff.
**A little goes a LONG LONG way, as everyone else has said! It's a one liter can, which is just a hair over one quart (33.82 oz). After applying two coats all the way around, and a few interior panels. I MAY have used about 5 oz.
**I don't know if the heat will affect the stuff on the hood insert over time. I didn't see any warning not to do it there.
**I'm letting it sit with open windows to air it out.
It sure was $52 bucks well spent!
VX KAT
....the adventure BEGINS ANEW! ...2015......
Remember that life is not measured in the breaths you take, but rather in the moments that take your breath away.
I've been wearing mine for 8 months now. I put on 3 or 4 coats, but it looks as good as when it first went on...great product! Now....what do I do with the $250.00 worth of Gator coating I'd bought? hahahahaha
how much you want to sell it for? I am going to take a medium followed by a fine scotch brite pads to remove all of the blemishes, cowboy pinstrips, what have you then refinish it. It's either the Gatorback or paint it with cladding paint, little more involved, but will be good when done.
Hey sue can you tell me where did you bought the kit ?
I'm interested doing the same application with my cladding.
I've been using this black out silicone formula since i bought my horse.
It takes me around 10 minutes to apply the silicone,thereafter i use a clean towel just to removed any accumulated dust & pollen to keep shiny![]()
Dakar was just the begining.
Here ya go Gussie!
http://yhst-13811118617756.stores.ya.../carere1l.html
I think this is the only place any of us have found to buy this stuff. If I could find a place to get a secure metal canister that wouldn't leak I'd be able to sell you half of mine. Like I said I used maybe 5 oz of the 33+ oz in can. I'm going to do some of Dave's trim on the FJ, but still I'll NEVER use all this stuff. This can came with a seal inside the top (like the kind on milk cartons now with the pull tab ring). Want me to look into seeing if I can find an appropriate type of can to ship it in?