k.. sorry .. thats an easy spot!
when u say one of the "pins" .. im sure that means one of the 4 on top?
Anyways.. I appreciate the help .. thanks
haggis
No the "pins" he's talking about is an electrical connector pin - when you look at where the electical plug comes into the pump and pull it apart, there are metal pins that plug into a receptical - it sounds like he's saying you can break one off to keep it from throwing an ABS code.
-- John
John Eaton
Original Owner
2001 Proton Yellow #580
Atlanta GA
http://wildtoys.com/vehicross/
http://vehicross.blogspot.com/
"Metaphors be with you"
yep, youve got it john, the lines you were referring to on the top of the module are the hydraulic lines for the brakes. if you unplug that connector i show in the first photo, there are a bunch of pins/connectors, finding the proper one and cutting or bending it will prevent the abs light from coming on
i highly doubt a dealership would do something like that... easiest way to tell if they fixed it properly is to find a dirt, gravel or snow covered road with nobody around and nothing to run into.. get the vx up to about 25-30 mph and slam on the brakes
you should feel feedback in the pedal, like a pulsing. it will feel like the pedal is trying to push itself back out and you will hear a very rapid tapping sound that almost sounds like grinding, thats the abs kicking in
if you dont feel that feedback or during the stop the vx back of the vx feels like its moving, you probably dont have abs and you should raise hell with the dealership
on a related topic. does anyone know if the abs operates just on the wheel thats slipping or if it balances between all the wheels? i had to make an emergency stop yesterday and to avoid getting hit by the guy behind me i veered half onto the gravel shoulder, so passenger tires were on gravel, drivers were on dry pavement, definitely felt the abs kick in but to my surprise the vx stopped straight and didnt try to spin or anything
should affect all wheels simultaneously. this is what controls for roll or spin tendencies.
Can you replace black electrical portion only? If so does it require brake bleeding etc or is silver part the onnly area in module braek fluid flows? I ahave a replacement for mine but if I can jsut try the black part first will save time and dime.
Yes... its possible to just remove the electrical portion to avoid brake bleeding but getting it apart from the silver part is very tough you can only see three of the six screws you need to remove.. i messed with that for probably 45 before giving up.. i could probably swap the whole thing plus bleed the brakes in an hour with a helper over the age of 10
iirc someone did do it that way but just broke the bottom screws off
bleeding your brakes is a necessary routine maintenance anyway
is that not covered by your warranty?