Interest in OEM shocks for sale? 2001, 64k miles

[Hotsauce]

The easy way to tell if they are good:

With the shock off the truck, compressit fully and release. The piston should rise very slowly, and at a steady rate to full extension.

If it doesn't rise at all, the shock is dead, worthless.

If it rises, but changes rate as it rises, the shock has a wear spot in its bore, and is also worthless.

I'd be VERY suprised if they are still good with that many miles because our short wheelbase is tough on shocks. I've had to replace mine almost every year.

John C.

[logman]

hmm, well, this is good to know. I have a set for the front that I took off because they are bad. I was looking to get them rebuilt, maybe I should just do that instead.

[VX KAT]

I pushed front corners, no bounce, moved maybe 1/2". More like Fred Flintstone's flintmobile...rock hard. I took it off-road today, 1st time, they seemed to perform great. Tried very rocky, rutted & angled trail...no problems. Hubby was following behind me & saw me clear many large rocks etc..

Trail did NOT have any washboard or round potholes like my daily dirt road. On trail, it didn't sound like it was going to jiggle apart like it does on the daily road. I had the back seats removed so you hear & notice a lot more noise without them to buffer it. Also, it "seemed" to me there was less jiggling/noise when I kept doors locked. Does that make any sense?

Also, I have 255/55/18 Falken Ziex tires.....isn't that a plus 1? Seems like sidewall is pretty short. I know they're not off-road tire, but came with it & they're like new. If I went with OEM size, wouldn't that "cushion" the ride better?

If the rear shocks were bad, wouldn't I bottom out on a lot of rocks or bounce a lot? What would it ride like if front OR rear were going or gone?

Any input is greatly appreciated. You've probably forgotten more than I'll ever know!

[Cobrajet]

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