Window issue...AGAIN, sorry....Need some advice?

[Solitude]

even with the fix you should lubricate the windows quaterly,, the tracks are long and arduous and need a little lube to slide easy.. nothing lasts for ever

[etlsport]

ive been using graphite lubricant.. it seems to work well.. i also widened the window track just a pinch

[VX KAT]

Thanks. I assume you mean you widened the FRONT track? I've done that too, but am considering doing something like that to the rear track as well as it seems to be involved in binding my window (see above).

Wonder of I can use both silicone and graphite lubricant together??

[Gussie2000]

Thanks. I assume you mean you widened the FRONT track? I've done that too, but am considering doing something like that to the rear track as well as it seems to be involved in binding my window (see above).

Wonder of I can use both silicone and graphite lubricant together??

Hi kat. it seems that those windows are giving a hell of trouble.

Now,i'll be more explicit....

The weatherstrip rubber goes from the botton end of the front trail,goes up around the window's door & ends at the bottom end of the rear trail.

What i did was to remove about 16 or more inches of the rubber from the bottom end of each trail going up close to where the side mirrors base is located.

But before i did this proceed i first tried widening the trail about half of centimeter,It do improved rolling up the windows,however at half the way up the window will slow & tilt towards the front,so after figuring what was causing the window to slow & tilt i noticed that the side mirrors support was tightening the trail right there on both doors so i remove the side mirrors & also widening the trail;after that i tested rolling up & down the window & they went up all the way without any problem up to today.

You can also do another thing,which is to remove both weatherstrip rubbers from the doors & get rid of some of the inner black foam,the black foam dries after time & the lack of lubricant force the windows to slow/tilt.

I will also suggest you to become so sort of CSI & look up close to see if the trail needs to be twist to any direction in order to avoid the windows rubbing agains the trails it self if you decide to remove all the weatherstrip.

If they do then the trails are causing 60 to 75% of the problem

You need to be pacient & make time apart to do this,it takes times to have it done the right way.

However my fix might not apply to you 100%,but it worths giving a try though
If you believe that the white string is loose or the tabs are also loose or either broken & don't seems to be ok then follow your instincs.

I also noticed that the inner black foam i referred seems to works as absorbing sponge,which should remains lubricated,but for some unknown reason they dries up or they lose the ability to allow the windows to moves up/down.

I have no idea if there's any waterproof lubricant for this kind of situations.

And regarding the concern about if water goes in the answer is no,at the bottom of the door there's few holes that works as water drains so water don't remains inside the doors

I hope my input can be helpfull in any way




Gustavo

[Bieredalsace]

I Think if some of you look closely you'll see that the white Nylon(not Plastic) guides are worn causing the glass to tilt forward. Since everything was originally designed to go straight up and down, when the glass tilts forward it binds up. All this "cut off weather striping and rubber gasket" is unnecessary!. If you take off the inner door panel and watch those white Nylon tabs you will see what I mean. Operate the window from "down to up" position and you will see the glass pressing against the inner front of the nylon brackets and there is a space behind the glass and the inner "back" side of the bracket. If you then pull the window to stand up perfectly vertical the glass will now come in contact with the inner back of the bracket and there is a space in the inner front of the bracket,,caused by wear and tear. So obviously if the space was not there the window would be held in a perfectly strainght vertical position and the window slides perfectly with no binding.
I believe I have a very simple fix that is almost Free!. Get a nylon zip tie that is the width (Thickness of the glass) and insert it into the space on the inner front of the bracket to take up the "play". I figured this out conceptually a while ago but ill health and lousey weather prevented me from actually making the fix.
Maybe some one in the group with a garage or warmer weather could try this fix out and tell me if it works. It should!
God luck guys!

[Bieredalsace]

I forgot to add this addendum:
"Disclaimer: The results above are not typical. Your results may vary depending upon exercise and diet:
IMHYLKIAOWIQVWA"

[Gussie2000]

I Think if some of you look closely you'll see that the white Nylon(not Plastic) guides are worn causing the glass to tilt forward. Since everything was originally designed to go straight up and down, when the glass tilts forward it binds up. All this "cut off weather striping and rubber gasket" is unnecessary!. If you take off the inner door panel and watch those white Nylon tabs you will see what I mean. Operate the window from "down to up" position and you will see the glass pressing against the inner front of the nylon brackets and there is a space behind the glass and the inner "back" side of the bracket. If you then pull the window to stand up perfectly vertical the glass will now come in contact with the inner back of the bracket and there is a space in the inner front of the bracket,,caused by wear and tear. So obviously if the space was not there the window would be held in a perfectly strainght vertical position and the window slides perfectly with no binding.
I believe I have a very simple fix that is almost Free!. Get a nylon zip tie that is the width (Thickness of the glass) and insert it into the space on the inner front of the bracket to take up the "play". I figured this out conceptually a while ago but ill health and lousey weather prevented me from actually making the fix.
Maybe some one in the group with a garage or warmer weather could try this fix out and tell me if it works. It should!
God luck guys!

Unnecesary you wrote ?

I don't think that any step is unnecesary to achive a deffinitive fix for those windows.

Most of us had come up with many ways & ideas about how to fix the windows biding & is precisely that unlimited source of info that makes the board a great place.

Again,no step is unnecesary if it helps the windows issues.KAT ask me to more explicit about how i did it & her request was responded.
If you carefully read my input i also added that "MY FIX MAY NOT WORK 100% " in your case & following I wrote "I HOPE MY INPUT CAN BE HELPFULL"

[Bulldoggie]

Not wanting to start a new "fix" , I have to agree with the above steps.
IE; widening the front guide track.
"AND" I have to admit I did trim my front (lower) weatherstripping, cutting away the inner flaps, still leaving rubber between the glass and the guide. I don't think it is necessary, but I think it does help with the overall speed (less friction). My rubber was already damaged, so I had no trouble making this choice.
I also found it difficult to seat the rubber back into the guide after pulling it to widen the guide.
Mostly the flaps that go outside of the metal guide.
If those flaps are tucked inside the guide, it will add a LOT of resistance.

I am not recommending that everyone should go and trim their front weatherstripping.....

[Bieredalsace]

Unnecesary you wrote ?

I don't think that any step is unnecesary to achive a deffinitive fix for those windows.

Most of us had come up with many ways & ideas about how to fix the windows biding & is precisely that unlimited source of info that makes the board a great place.

Again,no step is unnecesary if it helps the windows issues.KAT ask me to more explicit about how i did it & her request was responded.
If you carefully read my input i also added that "MY FIX MAY NOT WORK 100% " in your case & following I wrote "I HOPE MY INPUT CAN BE HELPFULL"

With all due respect to any of you who have achieved some success with performing surgery on the rubber and weather stripping, Yes if those areas are damage then it would be Necessary to go in there and remove the damaged materials. If it worked for you, Great.
When I try to fix something I start from the original manufacturers starting point as built. So i try and see how it was supposed to be Before we started having problems. If the windows were consistently causing binding problems I'm sure Isuzu would have made a fix before they left the assembly line just like they did with the terrible '99 engine problems.
If you were replacing the body side cladding and the holes didn't match up you could "fix' it by drilling new holes. But that isn't the way it was supposed to be. So that's why I said all the cutting and chopping were "unnecessary" IF it can be done correctly.
But for anyone in a pinch I guess any "fix" is better than driving around in inclement weather with the windows jammed in the down position.

[twistedsymphony]

I Think if some of you look closely you'll see that the white Nylon(not Plastic) guides are worn causing the glass to tilt forward. Since everything was originally designed to go straight up and down, when the glass tilts forward it binds up. All this "cut off weather striping and rubber gasket" is unnecessary!. If you take off the inner door panel and watch those white Nylon tabs you will see what I mean. Operate the window from "down to up" position and you will see the glass pressing against the inner front of the nylon brackets and there is a space behind the glass and the inner "back" side of the bracket. If you then pull the window to stand up perfectly vertical the glass will now come in contact with the inner back of the bracket and there is a space in the inner front of the bracket,,caused by wear and tear. So obviously if the space was not there the window would be held in a perfectly strainght vertical position and the window slides perfectly with no binding.
I believe I have a very simple fix that is almost Free!. Get a nylon zip tie that is the width (Thickness of the glass) and insert it into the space on the inner front of the bracket to take up the "play". I figured this out conceptually a while ago but ill health and lousey weather prevented me from actually making the fix.
Maybe some one in the group with a garage or warmer weather could try this fix out and tell me if it works. It should!
God luck guys!

my passenger's side window has always worked flawlessly, the drivers side has always been a little slow to go up and tiled forward, and more recently it will stop dead half way up unless I grab it and tilt it back.

I widened and lubricated the front track and it only improved it ever so slightly but nothing worth a damn.

I noticed the same thing as above... I think it has nothing to do with the front and rear rubber tracks and everything to do with the center guide...

I can push DOWN on the top of the window near the back and the window will roll up flawless every time... as long as you can prevent it from tilting you can have a window that goes up and down properly.

easing the pressure on the front track only treats the symptom... the cause is the fact that window is allowed to tilt at all.

looking at my well working passenger's side window the guides are snug against the center track... on my drivers side the front guide is warn down a fair amount.

the window motor puts more pressure up on the back than it does in the front which will naturally make the window want to tilt forward, the center track is what keeps it from tilting, the front and rear rubber guides are just to protect and seal the window away from the metal in the door... when the center guide isn't working they exacerbate the problem but I don't think they're the root cause.

I'm going to try the zip tie method sometime this week and see if it works.

[VX KAT]

Thanks so much to both of you for all that detail, it's very clear. You know I widened my track & bent the bracket forward a bit, it only improved a bit. Even when I had my entire front rubber track removed, window still was binding, and that made me think BACK rubber track is causing some binding. When I applied the pure silicon spray everything worked perfectly, so may be I should just be happy with that. But based on past posts, those things holding the glass are goin' break and I need to get Tim's metal brackets before they do.

I'm going to take it apart again and check the white nylon guides and see what's going on with them, I haven't looked at them closely. My hubby and I just retired (early!) so we have lots of time thankfully to play and mess with this stuff...we're just not very handy, nor experienced. But I'm determined to fix these darn windows myself! And the passenger window hardly moves, so who knows what awaits me behind that door panel!??

Thanks again, your help is awesome!

[Bieredalsace]

"Hmmm? What's behind door #2? I would suggest looking carefully at the guts for the window operating do-hickys before you do more surgery to the tracks and weather stripping. Start your various lubricating squirts down in there first! Good luck
PS: I know the problem with both doors was the same culprit.

[tom4bren]

Everyone seems to have a favorite fix for the window problem & I had a slightly unique issue that caused a more direct fix. My weather stripping had bunched up and tore on the driver's window. I just cut the torn section out and replaced with felt weather strip from the hardware store. It was a temporary fix that worked so well that I never went back to finishing the repair. There's a pic in my gallery.

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/sh...user/2699/sl/t

Tom

BTW, I got the brackets from SBC but still haven't installed them & can't remember the last time I lubricated the track. Being the procrastinator that I am, I still haven't fixed the passenger window.