Window issue...AGAIN, sorry....Need some advice?

[VX KAT]

I'm trying to fix my window issues.....I've read a ton of posts here, but could still use some input & advice from you pros! HELP!! :

1) When I got my VX last week I tried "Phinnes" fix where I widened front track & bent the bracket forward, it improved a bit. Then I cleaned out what looked like years of old lubricant junk, some dry and cracked, some beige & thick & greasy. Despite reading a ton of posts here about window fixes, being ignorant, (remember, be kind....) I sprayed WD40 on the front rubber track. Window worked perfectly.

Then learned not to use WD40 as it can dry out. So a few days later, took the door apart as window was slowing down already, removed the front rubber track, cleaned it out (and yes, the WD40 was dry). Interestingly, with the rubber front track COMPLETELY out, the window still showed some significant binding going up....This lead me to reason that the BACK track is involved. Applied pure silicone spray to the entire BACK rubber track, all the way up to top of window frame. Window worked perfectly. This was still with front rubber track REMOVED. BTW, this didn't score or scratch the front glass at all. I then tried to figure out if I had a tilt problem or not and if "spacer fix" would help.

When I first got car, the window did jump out of the track about 6" up, but since lubricating front rubber and bending front track, never jumped out again, so I don't "think" I have a tilt problem??

Now since it was binding when front rubber was completely OUT (and was not rubbing on the metal front track), I'm thinking I have a tilting issue where the glass is pressing too hard on the Back rubber channel, on the outer side of it. Just like "Bulldoggie's" drawing, except mine doesn't jump out of track any more.

When I reassembled it all, it worked perfectly, but I figure I'll have to keep re-lubricating it over time. I'd prefer permanent fix.

~How frequently do you think I'll have to apply silicone spray?
~Should I get SBC's brackets so I can move the window slightly forward??
~Or apply the spacer fix to change the tilt?
~Or try what Gussie2000 just mentioned yesterday, to cut some of the rubber off going down track? (Gussie2000, can you give me more details so I clearly understand what to do? Any future problem with water getting in anywhere?)

2) Also, vapor barrier plastic completely gone. I see fix to get some 4 mil plastic to replace, but is it IMPORTANT to replace the barrier? Is CO2 the risk?

3) Also, not clear on the nylon arm guides (white nylon tabs on the vertical regulator track). Are these what come loose, or have too much play? LittleBeast posted pics and labeled them "loose plastic tabs". Neither my white plastic tabs nor the tabs that actually hold onto the glass are broken...YET. I should get SBC's metal brackets before those current brackets holding glass break. But I don't think SBC's metal brackets involve the white nylon guide tabs at all..... What can be done about them :

p.s....I haven't even TOUCHED passenger door yet....that window was worse than driver's side, so by the time I tackle that one, I should have all the answers I need from y'all:grinp:

[TheGanzman]

If it was ME, I'd contact Tim and set up an appointment to run down to Mesa. For a few extra fazooles, I'll bet he'd INSTALL his window tabs for ya' - and I'll wager that he knows a thing or two about VX power windows in general too. Let him "lay hands on it" and heal 'er up!

[Solitude]

even with the fix you should lubricate the windows quaterly,, the tracks are long and arduous and need a little lube to slide easy.. nothing lasts for ever

[etlsport]

ive been using graphite lubricant.. it seems to work well.. i also widened the window track just a pinch

[VX KAT]

Thanks. I assume you mean you widened the FRONT track? I've done that too, but am considering doing something like that to the rear track as well as it seems to be involved in binding my window (see above).

Wonder of I can use both silicone and graphite lubricant together??

[Gussie2000]

Thanks. I assume you mean you widened the FRONT track? I've done that too, but am considering doing something like that to the rear track as well as it seems to be involved in binding my window (see above).

Wonder of I can use both silicone and graphite lubricant together??

Hi kat. it seems that those windows are giving a hell of trouble.

Now,i'll be more explicit....

The weatherstrip rubber goes from the botton end of the front trail,goes up around the window's door & ends at the bottom end of the rear trail.

What i did was to remove about 16 or more inches of the rubber from the bottom end of each trail going up close to where the side mirrors base is located.

But before i did this proceed i first tried widening the trail about half of centimeter,It do improved rolling up the windows,however at half the way up the window will slow & tilt towards the front,so after figuring what was causing the window to slow & tilt i noticed that the side mirrors support was tightening the trail right there on both doors so i remove the side mirrors & also widening the trail;after that i tested rolling up & down the window & they went up all the way without any problem up to today.

You can also do another thing,which is to remove both weatherstrip rubbers from the doors & get rid of some of the inner black foam,the black foam dries after time & the lack of lubricant force the windows to slow/tilt.

I will also suggest you to become so sort of CSI & look up close to see if the trail needs to be twist to any direction in order to avoid the windows rubbing agains the trails it self if you decide to remove all the weatherstrip.

If they do then the trails are causing 60 to 75% of the problem

You need to be pacient & make time apart to do this,it takes times to have it done the right way.

However my fix might not apply to you 100%,but it worths giving a try though
If you believe that the white string is loose or the tabs are also loose or either broken & don't seems to be ok then follow your instincs.

I also noticed that the inner black foam i referred seems to works as absorbing sponge,which should remains lubricated,but for some unknown reason they dries up or they lose the ability to allow the windows to moves up/down.

I have no idea if there's any waterproof lubricant for this kind of situations.

And regarding the concern about if water goes in the answer is no,at the bottom of the door there's few holes that works as water drains so water don't remains inside the doors

I hope my input can be helpfull in any way




Gustavo

[VX KAT]

2) Also, vapor barrier plastic completely gone. I see fix to get some 4 mil plastic to replace, but is it IMPORTANT to replace the barrier? Is Carbon monoxide or CO2 a risk?

:grinp:

Thanks Tom for mentioning the vapor barrier....I had posed a question about it at the beginning of this thread. Mine are both completely gone, now I think I should put some plastic up. Think moisture damage/mold is the only down side to not having them?

[TheGanzman]

For the record, I bought a set from Merlin recently - they're ~$4.00 apiece...

[tom4bren]

Yes, I believe that it is only a moisture issue. Since it is not a complete seal (holes for levers & wires & such) it is not intended to be a hermetic seal to keep out any gasses such as CO or CO2. Those are taken care of in the basic design of the car (i.e., the exhaust is at the rear where it is directed away from the passenger cabin by the air flow around the car). That's why safety inspections are typically very critical of after market exhausts, particularly side exhausts.

I can't remember who mentioned it earlier in your thread but there are indeed holes at the bottom of the door to let water flow out. There's no way that you'll ever be able to keep water out so the best approach is to let any accumulated water out. If the VB is missing, moisture can damage the door panel, speakers & wires. If those holes ever get clogged, enough water can accumulate in the door to actually slosh around and spill into the cabin (sounds silly but it actually happened on my TLC). As JAMAS mentioned, a lot more water goes through that door than you would ever expect.

[SomeBeach]

I have been reading all the window fix forums and am a little confused because I have never had the door panel off. On my driver door I have to pull the front of the glass up when closing the window (tilts forward). So with all the suggestions for window repair can you tell m what is the first thing I should try to correct my problem?

[Ldub]

I have been reading all the window fix forums and am a little confused because I have never had the door panel off. On my driver door I have to pull the front of the glass up when closing the window (tilts forward). So with all the suggestions for window repair can you tell m what is the first thing I should try to correct my problem?

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...ht=window+tilt

[SomeBeach]

I opened that site but didn't see anything on window repair. Reckon I'll just open it up and see if I can figure it out.