Pull a 4000 lb trailer on a winding mountain road after a hard rain and you'll understand!Originally Posted by LittleBeast
Actually your argument could be said of the ABS on just about any vehicle. If you're a skilled driver who can constantly brake at the point of incipient slide and you're on clean pavement, you can best the results of most ABS systems. In the real world, however, people are getting old, driving skills aren't what they used to be, feet are numb from pinched nerves, diabetes, etc. and there's gravel washed across the road - usually in the middle of a turn. ABS can make the difference between jack-knifing into oncoming traffic or going around the turn.
Joseph, that repair video shows a Bosch 5.3 which is a four channel module. We've got the Bosch 5.4 which, unfortunately, is a three channel model. (How about that logical German nomenclature, eh?) Some Troopers use the 5.3 but some have a 4 channel. The 5.4 is also found in the Dodge Durango & Dakota, mid 00's Ford F-150, late 90's SAABs and a bunch of other not-so-sporty cars. (Wait... is a Buick Lacrosse sporty?) I don't think you're supposed to use a 5.4 module from another vehicle though. Supposedly they're vehicle specific - programmed according to vehicle mass, dynamics, braking system, etc.
If you try the repair yourself and it turns out it's your "silver" bus wires, good luck soldering those and having the joint last! I know you probably meant silver in color but in case you meant silver metal... well... unfortunately that's not the case. Those bus wires are actually aluminum. No idea why they would use a wire made of material known to work harden, fatigue and crack in an environment subject to heat cycling and vibration but that's what they did and apparently that's the most common failure point in these units. Go figure...
When my ABS started flashing a Code 43, I thought briefly about Dremeling it open and repairing it myself but then I found out that might involve soldering aluminum and bailed on the idea real quick. Decided rather than risk ruining the unit with my jiggly 35W chisel and cataract addled eyes I'd to leave it to a pro who's got the proper flux, a skinny tip - and plenty of practice on other people's units! The hair-fine gold wires on the circuit board are allegedly another common failure point. No special flux needed for that - just plain old rosin core, good eyes and a steady hand.
On my unit, the power busses were good but a pad for a wire serving the FR solenoid had pulled completely loose from the board. The eBay ABS repair guy in Charlottesville, VA (Matt) fixed it and I would highly recommend him - good communication and blazing fast service. I think he normally charges $99 if you purchase service through his website (cheapabs.com) but check eBay and he's usually running an $85 auction for the same service. The title will say Bosch 5.3 for an Audi A4 or A6 if I recall - but he'll do a Bosch 5.4 for the same price. And that includes shipping the unit back to you. Can't beat it. Five minutes to take the unit off, ten to box it, slap a label and some stamps on it and put it in the mailbox and five minutes to re-install the unit. Quickest, easiest fix ever...
And yeah - you send just the electronic control module not the pump/hydraulics. You can drive the vehicle without the module but expect a little more tire scrubbing/chirping in parking lots and other slow speed/tight turn situations. Oh and you won't have ABS.
BTW, there's no harm in it but you really don't have to force the ABS to function every once in a while to "keep it all loose" because the solenoids and the pump get cycled during a system test every time you start and drive the vehicle.
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