The VX has a short wheelbase, a lot of overhang in the back relative to the wheelbase and stiff springs so it's never going to ride like an Xterra or something of that ilk - but it sure will handle - and that's in large part due to the OEM shocks. Isuzu really nailed the damping rates. But when the shocks get soft (or I imagine if you replace them with aftermarket shocks that don't have enough rebound damping) the handling is mediocre at best. <b>

Our shocks are the floating piston type - not bladder type - and the nitrogen eventually leaks out and then you get cavitation/aeration. Shim stacks don't do much damping in air! If your shocks aren't leaking fluid, you should try recharging them. I've had very good luck doing that - got 85K the VX now and it rides just fine on the original shocks. And it's cheap! The local bike shop here does all four for $10. I think next time they go soft, I'll change the fluid because at that point it will probably have 100K on it and surely by then the fluid will have thinned out - but so far, a shot of nitrogen is all it has taken to tighten things up. <b>

It's better to remove the shocks from the vehicle the first time. That makes it easier to drill a hole in the cap that covers up the Schrader valve (so you can pull it out) and also you will more than likely have to do some cleaning. There's a tiny hole in the edge of the cap that lets dirt and salt in. Use waterproof grease when you put the caps back. That seals things and also makes it easier to yank the cap back out when you have to recharge again in a couple years. I use Goop to fill the drilled hole. After the initial cleaning and re-charge you can just leave the shocks on the vehicle to recharge them if your local bike shop or whoever you get to charge them has a long enough nitrogen hose. When your VX starts to get boingy, just scrape the Goop off, yank the caps out with a spring hook, shoot 250psi into those Schrader valves, tap the caps back in, re-Goop and enjoy the ride. <b>

Important - drill closer to the edge of the cap - not the center! The bump in the center is there to clear the Schrader valve. If you drill into the valve you have created quite a problem for yourself. <b>

Now, if your OEM shocks have started leaking fluid, putting 250psi will only make them leak faster - until they leak enough out that the floating piston bottoms out in the remote reservoir anyway. If that's the case, you can have them rebuilt. The seal head is standard Kayaba. Any suspension shop should be able to get parts but Bruce's Suspension (brucessuspension dot com) has some experience with VX shocks so you might want to check him out. With fresh fluid, they will truly perform as new.