Alternative to Gatorback - faded cladding solutions

[Phantom]

zerostats cost like a hundred bucks nowadays. This Is what I use on all my lp/cd/dvd/interconnects/power wire/speaker cables:

http://www.mapleshaderecords.com/aud.../ionoclast.php

and on lp's before playing:

http://www.mapleshaderecords.com/aud...ecordbrush.php

Living in a low humidity area and having electrostatic speakers static electricity is a big problem for my system, so I have all this stuff laying around, I didn't think of using any of this stuff on my cladding though! Next time I put on a coat of back to black I will try the antistator trick out.

[rowhard]

zerostats cost like a hundred bucks nowadays.

DAMN, If I had know that I wouldn't even suggested it. Bought mine years ago, before cd's even in the BX overseas and it was cheap.

[twistedsymphony]

one of the guys on the avalanche forum recommended waiting 24 hours between coats... said it was still tacky after the first coat even after the recommended time period between coats.

this is the first I've heard of having to wipe it off after putting it on.

I'm placing an order for this stuff, hopefully we'll figure out optimal application instructions.

[Whaleboy]

one of the guys on the avalanche forum recommended waiting 24 hours between coats... said it was still tacky after the first coat even after the recommended time period between coats.

this is the first I've heard of having to wipe it off after putting it on.

I'm placing an order for this stuff, hopefully we'll figure out optimal application instructions.

Yeah, and I think that was due to moisture for that long rate? Anyhoo, I'm not really sure you should be wiping it off, that's a good observation. It definitely needs to soak into the polypropylene. As far as the hood is concerned, I have doubts it would have the same lasting effect as it does with the cladding. I'm honestly not sure what the outer surface of that insert is coated with, but it's not polypropylene.

I seriously recommend reading thru the threads I posted before applying, or before someone makes a tutorial. They've been using this product for quite some time.

[twistedsymphony]

I actually read threw two whole threads on the avalanche forum and no one really spelled out the application procedure. just hinted at different things here and there..

one interesting post was a guy had stains on the bed lid of his, said he didn't know the procedure to apply it, no one helped him so he posted back a few days later with pictures of his "best guess" at application. it dulled the stains quite a bit but didn't get rid of them completely and someone chastised him for it saying that if he had "followed directions that others had posted" he would have got rid of the stains.

after reading that I even went back and skimmed through the tread, did a search there, and looked through other threads in the forum and found no real form of instruction. gotta love the mentality of forum people sometimes.

EDIT:
I found the official application instructions. they're availble in the PDF from the official website:
http://www.carsystem.ca/shared_files...estorer_gb.pdf

from the PDF:

1. Surfaces to be sealed need to be clean and free of oil and grease. Any yellowing or staining on gelcoat and
other plastic surfaces needs to be removed with a cleaner. The surface should be thoroughly rinsed with
water. Metallic surfaces should be thoroughly degreased. Application on white surfaces can result in a slight
colour change.
2. After initial treatment the surface should be thoroughly dried before the Refinish Restorer is applied.
3. Refinish Restorer cannot be applied onto very warm surfaces or in direct sunlight.
4. Refinish Restorer is applied evenly, using a soft flat brush or a lint free cloth, until the pores are filled.
5. Refinish Restorer should take effect 5 to 10 minutes after application. Any liquid Refinish Restorer can be
brushed over a more porous area.
6. After a maximum of 10 minutes any excess oil should be removed with an absorbent lint free cloth or a soft
pad, otherwise it can only be removed with a suitable stain remover. Liquid Refinish Restorer can be removed
using a turpentine substitute.
7. If necessary repeat steps 4 to 6.
8. When a high degree of shine is required, the surfaces treated with Refinish Restorer can be polished with a
non abrasive wax.
9. Metallic surfaces are not very porous and must therefore treated with a very fine wire wool soaked in Refinish
Restorer. Excess oil must be removed after about 15 minutes. The surface can be than be polished with a lint
free cloth for a greater shine.
Cleaning Tools: Use turpentine substitute

so you leave it on for 10 minutes and then remove it. use a brush... and it works on metal as well as plastic (which is probably why it works on the hood insert)

[Whaleboy]

ahhh, excellent find!

check that out, turpentine substitute to clean off the refinish restorer.. thats a good sign this stuff is tough!

Oh, btw. The label on the can does say "avoid contact with skin and eyes". So guys I would suggest you wear gloves.

[Phantom]

Those pics look nice! Looks like it really darkens things up. I am thinking about ordering this and seeing if it is less of a dust magnet than the back to black. In socal it hardly ever rains so dust accumulates at a scary rate! I use a duster on the metal bits but it streaks the cladding so I just let it get dusty till I wash it.

[Thmstec]

I combed over my can, can't find anything about no contact with skin or eyes ??? hmm, well my hands are still fine-- I'll let you guys know if that changes

Glad you found the official instructions, you guys made me nervous about wiping the extra off.

[Riff Raff]

[mrlegoman]

Ordering some now!!