Because you cant weave kevlar tight enough to be able to flex while holding grease. You can also get factory style(thick) aftermarket boots. I have some in the box at my dads house. I'll check out the brand and part number
Super VXer
Because you cant weave kevlar tight enough to be able to flex while holding grease
The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable man persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore all progress depends on me.
Super VXer
Yes but you could line the inside with a membrane that is then wrapped in kevlar. (I'd think).
oh well...
Super VXer
Richie,
I put Dormans on this weekend. So far so good. The only problem that I ran into is that I used some HD Zip Ties instead of the bands. One of the inners (Drivers side) I didn't get it tight enough and the boot slipped off of the outer race (green cup). At least I can fix it without disassembling anything.
BTW, I'm with you on the grease. The kits come with what looks like about 1/2 of the amount needed (IMHO).
BTW2, in the other CV boot thread recently, I posted a source for a boot that comes highly recommended by a CV shop.
BTW3, Advance Auto sells an OEM type boot but I don't know if it's the same quality as factory. It does come with a Limited Lifetime Warentee. They're about $10 each.
I took some pix of all 3 boots lined up (OEM, MechaTech, Dorman). I'll try to post later today.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Put a smiley after you say that Bub.
Super VXer
Cool... Keep me posted on how everything is going...
I'll be running a trail this weekend, hopefully all goes well.
Can anyone tell me why they don't use a Worm gear clamp on the boots? Seems like a much simpler solution. But I'm sure there's a reason.
Super VXer
The head (screw) of the clamp would wear through the boot when flexed to the small side...Originally Posted by taylorRichie
Super VXer
If you look at the site I posted in the other thread & blow up the picture of the kit - it looks like the band is different than the ones we're used to. These actually have slots in the band and once tightened, a simple crushing of the buckle will engage the slot.
It looks to me that the bands can be installed TOO tightly though so be careful. When I removed the torn MechaTechs, one was torn at the band (seems like the band actually cut the boot - they were professionally installed so were much tighter than I could have done). I think I'll stick with my ziptie set up for now to see if they hold up over time.
Super VXer
Man, I just hope my boots last for another few years without breaking. But on that note, I am waiting for some solid words on what aftermarket boots work good and last long with the VX. When the time comes, I will probably have a good shop do my boot replacement, to make sure it gets done right, and stays put.
I don't want any clicking.
Bart
Super VXer
Been thinking about this some more... I wonder if a heavy duty fabric (Carbon Kevlar etc.) with a Gore-Tex membrane would work... Create something like a shift boot, and tape the seams...Because you cant weave kevlar tight enough to be able to flex while holding grease
Wonder if I can get gore to head up this project
Super VXer
I do remember them making a kevlar boot protector cover, but it was more to prevent it being externally punctured, unlike our "accelerated fatigue" problem.
Super VXer
"Did you have an extra set of hands?"
Nope - my foul language when things don't go right scares everyone away for miles & miles.
"I just put a floor jack as far out as I could on the lower control arm. Then Jacked it up as high as I could, Rotated the ball joint and the bracket slipped right by on the side toward the rear of the vehicle."
Tried that - it worked much better in theory than it did in practice. What worked for me was: Push, Squeeze, Cuss, Twist ... repeat 20 times. Several large punches helps a lot to line up the holes (don't hammer the bolts in place or try to thread them in - that's how you dork the threads).
Super VXer
I know all about dorking threads
I recommend knocking on a neighbors door next time
I got the lower balljoint below the control arm by myself, but spent about 5 minutes trying to get the bolts lined up and decided I'd wait for help.
Oh and I remember why it was so easy for me, duh... I disconnected the outer tie rod end. (that's how I dorked the threads). It takes just a minute to drop the tie rod, probably less time than monkeying with the assembly.
Super VXer
I'll keep that in mind - with my luck, I'll be doing it again same time next year.
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