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Thread: Quick Help!! Cv Joint Boot Bands - How...

  1. #16
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    Gas,

    I was quoted $365 per side to install the boots. They don't know of our shortcut so plan on removing the entire half shaft assembly before even starting the boot removal.

    Tom
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

    Put a smiley after you say that Bub.

  2. #17
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    Boot pix posted to my gallery.

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by tom4bren View Post
    Gas,

    I was quoted $365 per side to install the boots. They don't know of our shortcut so plan on removing the entire half shaft assembly before even starting the boot removal.

    Tom
    Ouch! Maybe I will do it myself when the time comes!

    Bart

  4. #19
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    I did my own and my feelings are two thing about the job I dont like. One is trying to get the lower ball joint mount back under the lower control arm when re-assembling and two, its just plain messy.

    It takes me awhile but that’s because I like to take my time and be thorough, if I rush then I always have to go back and fix what I missed.

  5. #20
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    "One is trying to get the lower ball joint mount back under the lower control arm when re-assembling"

    AMEN!!!

    I dorked the threads on 2 of the bolts the first time I did the job. The second time I didn't mess anything up but it still took a while. BTW - those bolts are hard to find - I ended up with 2 that have 19mm heads while all the rest are 17mm.

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by tom4bren View Post
    "One is trying to get the lower ball joint mount back under the lower control arm when re-assembling"

    AMEN!!!

    I dorked the threads on 2 of the bolts the first time I did the job. The second time I didn't mess anything up but it still took a while. BTW - those bolts are hard to find - I ended up with 2 that have 19mm heads while all the rest are 17mm.
    Interesting...

    Did you have an extra set of hands?

    I just put a floor jack as far out as I could on the lower control arm. Then Jacked it up as high as I could, Rotated the ball joint and the bracket slipped right by on the side toward the rear of the vehicle. Then I had my nephew hold the full brake assembly while I manipulated the lower bracket into place. It kind of found it's home on it's own while being wiggled around.

    Got two bolts through and started, then the rest was cake... but those bolts are simply too long when it's time to crank on the nuts. Takes forever.

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ascinder View Post
    Because you cant weave kevlar tight enough to be able to flex while holding grease. You can also get factory style(thick) aftermarket boots. I have some in the box at my dads house. I'll check out the brand and part number
    Been thinking about this some more... I wonder if a heavy duty fabric (Carbon Kevlar etc.) with a Gore-Tex membrane would work... Create something like a shift boot, and tape the seams...

    Wonder if I can get gore to head up this project

  8. #23
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    I do remember them making a kevlar boot protector cover, but it was more to prevent it being externally punctured, unlike our "accelerated fatigue" problem.
    The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable man persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore all progress depends on me.

  9. #24
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    "Did you have an extra set of hands?"

    Nope - my foul language when things don't go right scares everyone away for miles & miles.

    "I just put a floor jack as far out as I could on the lower control arm. Then Jacked it up as high as I could, Rotated the ball joint and the bracket slipped right by on the side toward the rear of the vehicle."

    Tried that - it worked much better in theory than it did in practice. What worked for me was: Push, Squeeze, Cuss, Twist ... repeat 20 times. Several large punches helps a lot to line up the holes (don't hammer the bolts in place or try to thread them in - that's how you dork the threads).

  10. #25
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    I know all about dorking threads

    I recommend knocking on a neighbors door next time

    I got the lower balljoint below the control arm by myself, but spent about 5 minutes trying to get the bolts lined up and decided I'd wait for help.

    Oh and I remember why it was so easy for me, duh... I disconnected the outer tie rod end. (that's how I dorked the threads). It takes just a minute to drop the tie rod, probably less time than monkeying with the assembly.

  11. #26
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    I'll keep that in mind - with my luck, I'll be doing it again same time next year.

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