Oil leak from ????

[kodiak]

Its actually pretty amassing that after almost 90k this is the first evidence of oil seepage. It’s kind of like finding you first gray hair.

[JHarris1385]

I would vote it is your seal. Just happens to be leaking from the opposite side mine is. Water most likely got into your oil and broke it down. Not only would I change the diff but also repack your bearings if you know you have been in mud or water recently.

[nfpgasmask]

J, so you're saying its the seal around the diff? How can this be fixed?

Bart

PS - I hardly ever drive in water, its dry as a bone out here. The deepest water I have been in lately was this:



But then again, do you think just rain water splashing up that way would be enough to penetrate the seal?

[Y33TREKker]

I should probably know this already, but where is the condensor for the AC located? Since it's been warmer out lately, have you been running the AC? Maybe what you're seeing is just accumulated water dripping off the condensor, which is collecting grease and grime as it makes it's way over dirty engine and chassis surfaces on it's way to the ground? That would also explain why it only seems to happen when the vehicle is driven.

[JHarris1385]

Y33 not a bad idea.


Bart, I would at least change your diff fluid no matter at if it has been 30k. I think the intervals is 15K. But I could be wrong and probably am. The seal is about $14 but a pain in the arse to get to. Our axel is set up to only be serviced by taking it off the brackets and dropping. I have had this leak for quite some time, maybe a year now. Everytime I have either added oil or changed it stopped. Changing this seal out is going to be one heft mech ticket, the estimate is 4hours of labor and this is why I have not done it yet. In the meantime I did manage to build some drop brackets so we can tackle that at the same time. I am not 100% sold on it being the seal but I kind of think it is. The spray pattern seems to be from circular motion while in drive.

[nfpgasmask]

Bart, I would at least change your diff fluid no matter at if it has been 30k. I think the intervals is 15K. But I could be wrong and probably am. The seal is about $14 but a pain in the arse to get to. Our axel is set up to only be serviced by taking it off the brackets and dropping. I have had this leak for quite some time, maybe a year now. Everytime I have either added oil or changed it stopped. Changing this seal out is going to be one heft mech ticket, the estimate is 4hours of labor and this is why I have not done it yet. In the meantime I did manage to build some drop brackets so we can tackle that at the same time. I am not 100% sold on it being the seal but I kind of think it is. The spray pattern seems to be from circular motion while in drive.

Thanks for the info, J. I am planning to do my diffs very soon, so we'll see...

Bart

[kodiak]

If we go thru the trouble of dropping the diff we mite as well do the CV boots too,
get it all with one shot. My leek is very slow so I can wait. I know my CV boots are next so if it is the seals I can wait.

[nfpgasmask]

I should probably know this already, but where is the condensor for the AC located? Since it's been warmer out lately, have you been running the AC? Maybe what you're seeing is just accumulated water dripping off the condensor, which is collecting grease and grime as it makes it's way over dirty engine and chassis surfaces on it's way to the ground? That would also explain why it only seems to happen when the vehicle is driven.

Yes, a good thought, but I rarely run my a/c. I ran if for about 20 miles on the way back from Moab, and that's it. Since I have been home, it hasn't been on once.

Bart

[nfpgasmask]

So, I am still leaking from this spot and I would say it is the seal around my diff. So, has anyone else out there with leak got it fixed?

Bart

[tom4bren]

Bart,

Mine hasn't leaked but since I just completed my diff drop I kinda know what's going on in there. If you are going to do the diff drop then you'll be removing the seal anyway. This would be the time to replace the CV boots as well since you'll be 97.3% of the way there anyway.

Have you looked at StarChild's instructions for installing the Darlington diff drop brackets? I have it in pdf if you want me to send it to you. You can see the seal in the third picture in those instructions.

I didn't replace my seal (StarChild indicated this was OK so I took the gamble). I just happen to have 2 spares from the axle I got from the boneyard if you need them tho.

If you can live with the leak until you are ready to do the diff drop, I would recommend that you do so. You'll have the axle broken down as far as you'll ever take it during that process so just wait till then to perform any more diagnostics.

[nfpgasmask]

Tom,

My first question in response to your reply, is why do I need to do the diff drop? I know this will help with the angle of my CV joints, but I don't think I am lifted to the extent you are.

But yeah, to change the seal looks like I will be going all the way in and removing the CV up front to get at it, which I am sure will fubar the boots...

Maybe I will just deal with the leak and keep checking the levels until I decide its time to do the work.

Bart

[tom4bren]

Bart,

You lifted 3" right? That's all I lifted & have been trashing 2 sets of CV boots per year. I think LittleBeast is the same. CSTYLES is the same. You may not have torn a boot yet but chances are that you will eventually. I'm not trying to talk you into the diff drop - just letting you know. The only reason for dropping the differential is to prolong CV joint & CV boot life - there are no other benefits.

Removing the CV boots won't trash them if you're careful. The only damage I did to mine was a small cut when I was trying to remove the band.

If there is a remote possibility that you will eventually want the diff drops then take care of it all at once: diff drop, CV boots, oil seal, re-gear, lockers. Trust me, it's not a job you'll want to do twice. It's not that complicated but it's dirty & time consuming.

Tom