Does this look right?? One corner done on lift.

[Ldub]

Dub...ya missed two vital first steps...



If it were me, I would provide......

A gallon of Vodka

Park up at the Red Rock on a "quiet" Tuesday evening!

Then......get you and Jay to:-

Jack up the rear end high enough to provide full droop of the rear suspension.
Set the frame on jack-stands.
Remove the tires.
Remove the lower shock mounts.
(Being able to lift & lower the axle with a floor jack makes getting the lower shock mounts off much easier.)
Apply some downward pressure (Brittnay, here's where you help) on the top of the axle & the spring should come out with a little pull.
Reverse process to install.


jo.....

I stand most humbly corrected...WHAT WAS I THINKING???

I must be getting old & feeble in the head...


.


.

[taylorRichie]

Done...

Took 45 minutes.

As for the sway bar links I had to undo them to install the new bushings so it wasn't a big deal.

Now onto the torsions...

Next week I'll flip the ball joints, and install tie rods (hoping they are here by then)

My Front sway bar bushings just shipped today too...

So next week I'll have EVERYTHING I ordered to do the fronts.

Very excited.

[Ascinder]

I have often thought of using silicone or some industrial adhesive to bond the coils and spacers, but mine have never tried to come out sooo......

[CrnCnn]

I have often thought of using silicone or some industrial adhesive to bond the coils and spacers, but mine have never tried to come out sooo......

Well we will have to try harder with yours in Moab next year....

[Todd Adams]

Sorry guys I just don’t get it. Seems like everyone is overcomplicating this whole lift thing. I also don’t understand why all the parts. I lifted mine almost 8 years ago using some springs I bought from Valley Spring Works in California. At the time they were the only ones that had them. No cups or anything else they just replaced the stock coils.
I don’t understand why one would need to replace the torsion bars in the front. The OEM rate makes for a good ride no matter where you crank them and that does not change.

I did have a problem with the rear anti sway bar, it broke due to the added articulation. The bar never did get replaced but then I limit my high speed turns.

About the only thing I might do is the top A-arm joint flip. The only reason I would do this is to get rid of a few alignment shims that corrected the camber issue after the lift but then it has been OK for over 7 years and anytime you mess with the alignment there is a chance that something may come loose after. I have seen this happen twice but then I don’t rely on anyone but me to align my vehicles.

The other thing is shocks. Unless you need to replace them for some other reason there is no reason you need new ones for the lift. The stock shocks are some of the best there are and have more than enough stroke to accommodate a mild lift.

One thing that you have to keep an eye on after the lift is the CV boots. I have had to replace and re lube the CV’s and I feel the OEM boots are a bit thin leading to early failure with the added angle. I installed after market boots several years ago and they seem to be holding up better than the stock ones did.

I usually don’t make comments to these kind of threads (or even read them) since my days years ago running the 4x4experts web pages. Kind of got burnt out if you know what I mean but Larry asked me to take a look. I learned a long time ago that simple is better.
Todd

[nfpgasmask]

Sorry guys I just don’t get it. Seems like everyone is overcomplicating this whole lift thing. I also don’t understand why all the parts.--SNIP-- Kind of got burnt out if you know what I mean but Larry asked me to take a look. I learned a long time ago that simple is better.
Todd

Agreed. I lifted with the 912s and the front torsion bar crank and so far so good. I've done NOTHING else but trim my cladding.

Bart

[taylorRichie]

Seems like everyone is overcomplicating this whole lift thing. I also don’t understand why all the parts.

I'd like to know what is complicated about my lift?

I did the springs just like you, only changed my stock little coil pad with a urethane one. It gives an extra inch of lift as well. My stock pads were completely demolished.

A previous owner had replaced the stock shocks with some rancho adjustables that were nearly rusted through, they still ran fine but why not take care of them while I'm at it.

Sway bar bushings are cheap $10/pair plus greasable.

The bump stop I did because everyone else was doing it And it's not like it was difficult 2 bolts and 5 minutes.

Start to finish I did my rear in under 2 hours.

The front took about 15 minutes to crank the torsions, but I plan to flip the ball joints, and replace the tie rods, and front shocks.

Torsion Bars are the only thing I think would be unnecessary to replace since they've got to make the ride HARSH. Other than that, why not add in heavy duty components (like tie rods) it's certainly not going to hurt anything.

I don't have near the experience as you Todd, so I've got to build everything tough. You could be 3" lower than me, and I'd still be the one scraping and rubbing. I need to give me an extra "piece of mind" while I learn how to drive

I'm by no means an expert in the off road world, I'm a complete novice, everything I'm choosing to do has been based on feedback and research found on this site. If at anytime I'm doing something wrong or unnecessary PLEASE SOMEONE TELL ME!! I'd love to put the money elsewhere.

I love these place, of course I hate it too I've had my vehicle for 6 weeks and it's already cost me over $5,000 in extras... OUCH!!

[Jolly Roger VX'er]

I'll have to respectfully disagree with you Tone, & please explain it to me real slow if you have info. I'm unaware of.
The bottom spring cup is tapered, with a stop where the end of the spring seats, to keep it from rotating. The top cup, is flat, with the stock rubber cushion.
It deosn't seem right to put the spacer on the bottom, when the bottom of the 912's is of the same coil shape, designed to engage the "stop" & the top is ground flat, to fit in the flat upper cup.

IMO, the spacers should go in the upper cup, replacing the stock cushion, which is designed to accept the flat end of the spring.

Just my opinion, waiting to hear what you're thoughts are...

And unless longer than stock shocks are installed, I haven't seen a set of 912's drop out. Not too sure that zip ties would be strong enough anyway.

Pic from Independent4X website:

Thanks! This is just what I was looking for This site is Awesome!

[taylorRichie]

Don't forget to replace the bumpstop that's also pictured in that image. I still need to extend mine by an inch or so.

[nfpgasmask]

Don't forget to replace the bumpstop that's also pictured in that image. I still need to extend mine by an inch or so.

That is about the only thing I want to do post lift. When I flex out real hard my real tires will rub in the wheel well. Richie, let me know what you end up getting. I need to do the same.

Bart

[taylorRichie]

I used the Energy Suspensions Bumpstop, (P/N in the lift wiki thread) I used it coupled with my stock one (about 1/4 of it) I Barely rub... If I didn't have the coil spacer I wouldn't hit. With your wheel offset and no coil spacer you should be fine with just the Tall Bumpstop.

[crager34]

After I lifted mine and did the ball joint flip using the stock bolts, one failed shortly after. So.... maybe not a bad idea to go and get yourself 6 new bolts to replace the old ones.

[LittleBeast]

After I lifted mine and did the ball joint flip using the stock bolts, one failed shortly after. So.... maybe not a bad idea to go and get yourself 6 new bolts to replace the old ones.

Interesting, do you think that one was just weak for some odd reason? Those are some pretty hefty bolts hope you are not having some weird pressure point thing going on.

[Maddawg]

I used the Energy Suspensions Bumpstop, (P/N in the lift wiki thread) I used it coupled with my stock one (about 1/4 of it) I Barely rub... If I didn't have the coil spacer I wouldn't hit. With your wheel offset and no coil spacer you should be fine with just the Tall Bumpstop.

I realize this is an old qoute and Taylor may not be active here anymore. But didn't he mean "If I DID have the coil spaicer I wouldn't hit"??