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Thread: Bleeding a dry brake system

  1. #1
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    Bleeding a dry brake system

    This past weekend while I was painting calipers and installing new brake pads instead of plugging the brake lines after I disconnected them I let them all run dry. Even though I never touched the brake peddle the master cylinder ran completely dry.

    After putting everything back together I bled the brakes for a day and a half and still wasn't getting all of the air out of the system. I finally threw in the towel and brought it to a mechanic. He had worked on a Honda with ABS on it before and had the same problem of not being able to get all of the air out of the lines. What he eventually found out was that there was air trapped in the ABS module, and he needed to hook it up to a computer to get the ABS to activate and push the air and fluid out.

    He checked with Isuzu, and apparenlty the way to bleed a completely dry VehiCross brake system is to remove the fuse for the ABS and do a standard bleed with the motor running.

    I don't know what this does, but it works like a charm as now the brakes are bled and working great.
    "The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong, it usually turns out to be impossible to get at or repair."
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  2. #2
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    Thumbs up

    ......YAY ! ! !......

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by MSHardeman View Post
    He checked with Isuzu, and apparenlty the way to bleed a completely dry VehiCross brake system is to remove the fuse for the ABS and do a standard bleed with the motor running.
    Get your copy of Workshop Manual to do the things right!
    http://www.vehicross.info/modules.ph...warticle&id=20
    2001 Isuzu VehiCROSS (build in progress): 4JX1/A340/part time, 2" body lift, front Aisin hubs, rear Aussie Locker, 4.56 gears, OEM rear sway bar disconnect, AirFlow snorkel, cabin air filter
    1980 Jeep Cherokee (assembling): 1.5" body lift, TBI, HEI
    1987 AMC Eagle: stock

  4. #4
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    Uncle,

    I have the manual......just didn't read it closely enough. I think I'm going to read that thing from top to bottom so I'll be ready for anything from here on out.

  5. #5
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    Hey, that's a great tip that I never knew about. Maybe that's why my ABS light has been on ever since I R&Red my calipers? Did your ABS light come on?
    Calmini Cone Air Filter, PowerVault PV2 Muffler, OME Trooper Springs, Rancho RS9000X Shocks, 285/75R16 Nitto Grappler AT's, Pioneer DEH P8000R In-Dash CD, Amps and Drivers Built by Orion, Wires and Fuse Blocks by KnuKonceptz, Vibration Damping by BQuiet, Alarm System featuring Auto Start and Remote Windows, Yakima LoadWarrior w/Full Size Spare, Debadged/Custom Titanium Grill Logo, Tint (5% Rear / 20% Front), Steel Braided Brake Lines, G2 Painted Calipers

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by kpaske View Post
    Hey, that's a great tip that I never knew about. Maybe that's why my ABS light has been on ever since I R&Red my calipers? Did your ABS light come on?
    The manual said, that "the vacuum booster will be damaged if the
    bleeding operation is performed with the engine off".

    Regarding ABS troubleshooting: read pages 5A-26 and 5A-24 of manual. They might give you some tips on what to look for.

    My ABS unit just died due to one of the solenoids failure, I disassembled half of electrical part but did not found anything to repair, so I bought replacement on e-bay (hope it works ). Just in case, the ABS unit is interchangeble with Trooper.

  7. #7
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    kpaske,

    When I was bleeding the system myself, I didn't turn the car on so I don't know if the ABS light would have come on or not. Obviously when we removed the fuse the light came on. I'm sure you've check the ABS fuse already, and it sounds like a really simple thing, but if you haven't give it a shot.

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