lift set up

[JHarris1385]

There is a thread about the spring compression and height of 912's versus 919's. The 12's are taller.....


Go to planetisuzu.com for the cranking of the t-bars for a helpfull post. It is on the front page if I recall.

[So-CalVX]

can anything be dropped with spacers to release cv stress?
Or is there anything else that can be dun to accomplish that?

[Ascinder]

Diff drop brackets. That's pretty much it.

[LittleBeast]

October 2004 and June 2006 ARB application guide North American Version both list the specs as follows.

Part #, Free Hight, # Coils, lbf/in spring rate, (application)

OME912, 420 mm, 10.8, 180-300 (medium load Trooper 92-02)
OME913, 390 mm, 9.3, 180-300 (medium Amigo/Rodeo 5door coil spring 98-02)
OME919, 430 mm, 10.8, 200-280 (heavy load Trooper 92-02)

bar diameter is same for each. 913 has lowest coil weight, 912 is + 0.8Kg and 919 is + 0.9Kg.

I verified the application guide is correct as it pertains to the OME912 and OME913 part numbers with a Rep at ARB-USA who cross checked for any updates.
I also cross checked in the Oct 2005 International Application guide and the specs are identical number for number, only the applications are listed as follows;

OME912 (medium load GM Frontera 95-98) and (medium Jackaroo/Monterey 92-2/2001)
OME913 (medium load GM Frontera 99+ 5 door)
OME919 (medium Jackaroo/Monterey 3/2001 - 04, Heavy load Jackaroo/Monterey 92-2/2001)

hope this information is helpful and clears up any confusion about the specs.

As you can see from above the 919s are actually longer by 10mm.

There are tons of threads on these subjects that are helpful.
Difference in springs for lift: http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=10299
Size of bolt for torsion cranking (27mm): http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=738
Lots of questions answered:
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=10525
How to ball joint flip with pics:
http://www.planetisuzoo.com/articles.htm/78
Torsion bar how to with pics:
http://www.planetisuzoo.com/articles...Bar_Adjustment

My question would be while doing ball joint flip should we replace ball joints when they are around $240 for both upper and lower on both sides: http://catalog.autohausaz.com/autoha...t=Ball%20Joint

[Triathlete]

When I did mine I did not replave the ball joints. They are not that hard to do so if they go bad at a later time it will not be to much time wise to change them...especially after doing it once already.
Of course I hope to not have to worry about that. The front end will hopefully be replaced with a solid axle before then.

[ZEUS]

My question would be while doing ball joint flip should we replace ball joints when they are around $240 for both upper and lower on both sides: http://catalog.autohausaz.com/autoha...t=Ball%20Joint

OEM is hard to beat - sources like that sometimes use inferior metal in comparison so you may be taking a backward step by replacing the OEM's with junk.

[Ascinder]

I see your point Zeus, but I'll throw down a tidbit on this having replaced all my BJs with aftermarket. The ones I got are all made in Japan and appeared to be well finished quality products. I have beat them pretty hard and they show no signs of adverse wear or damage. The company who made mine is called Sankei Industry co. of Japan.

[LittleBeast]

I have never seen this mentioned on here, but in order to do the ball joint flip you absolutely need:

22mm box wrench
14mm box wrench
14mm socket (+ ratchet)
Penetrating Oil
New Cotter Pins

Just didn't want anyone to get half way in and realize the closest to 22mm they had was 7/8ths" (and nearly strip the castle nut) and realize they had no cotter pins big enough to replace the rusted in place one that you might have to drill out..... Because that is exactly what happened to me. Oh and make sure to clean up the threads on the ball joint shaft and the castle nut, because if they do not screw back on freely by hand than you cannot put it all back together at all. Hope this helps someone eventually.