Up Up And Away!

[Ascinder]

Energy Suspension Part # 9.9104R (for red ones) - "Designed with a large reinforced metal plate welded to a mounting plate and molded-in. 4 1/2" tall,
2 1/2" wide. 2 per set" Evidently if you do this all you have to do is take off the old bumpstop and mount and seperate the two so you can use the stock mount with the new bumpstop. Zeus has photos of this: http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/sh...37/ppuser/1999

After you posted this, I went and got some. By "seperate" you mean have to cut off some, but not all of the factory stops. If you look at Zeus' pic, you can see that about 1" of the factory stop remains. I am going to use some square 2" steel tubing instead, I think it'll support it better. Just an FYI, I was expecting 1 1/2" longer bumpstops.

[LittleBeast]

After you posted this, I went and got some. By "seperate" you mean have to cut off some, but not all of the factory stops. If you look at Zeus' pic, you can see that about 1" of the factory stop remains. I am going to use some square 2" steel tubing instead, I think it'll support it better. Just an FYI, I was expecting 1 1/2" longer bumpstops.

Dude totally sorry, I was just looking at that myself, as I just picked them up from 4 wheels parts myself. Yeah it does look like he used some of the old bumpstops..... Hmmm..... I am sure we will figure something out. 2" steel tubing as a spacer? Are you going to use the new bumpstops or take them back?

[ZEUS]

Wassup. The factory bumpstop mount works great for my poly bumper setup. I have caught air and the poly bumpers absorb better than the stock rubbers and the factory mount holds up just fine. The length of the bumpers when mounted this way seems perfect to me.

[Ascinder]

I went with 2.5" 1/4" wall square tubing(there's no kill like overkill) Which I don't recommend since most people are lifted this high so 2.5" won't clear. it was easy to do($10 in steel and drilling six holes plus some bedliner). If you go with smaller tubing, you would be advised to find a way to drill/mill some access holes so you can get a socket through. For anyone who hasn't put these on, how much clearance do you have between the bottom of your stops and your axle? What about you Zeus? Mine seems a little on the smallish side( good for articulation, bad for load carrying) so I'd like to know what is the normal clearance(non lifted). Here's what I got:
[IMG][/IMG]

[Chopper]

Maybe quarter-half an inch less than you have

[Ascinder]

Oh, cool then, I have been so used to the gap being several inches that it seemed really tight, but if it's back close to stock, that's great.

[ZEUS]

I went with 2.5" 1/4" wall square tubing(there's no kill like overkill) Which I don't recommend since most people are lifted this high so 2.5" won't clear. it was easy to do($10 in steel and drilling six holes plus some bedliner). If you go with smaller tubing, you would be advised to find a way to drill/mill some access holes so you can get a socket through. For anyone who hasn't put these on, how much clearance do you have between the bottom of your stops and your axle? What about you Zeus? Mine seems a little on the smallish side( good for articulation, bad for load carrying) so I'd like to know what is the normal clearance(non lifted). Here's what I got:
[IMG][/IMG]

Yessir, I tried to keep the gap about the same because I think the rear snubbers help to reduce the body roll and therefore help in the handling dept. So mine look about like yours. They kick up a little on some speed bumps so I just go faster to smooth it out!

[nfpgasmask]

So with the help of CrnCnn and Ascinder, I got lifted this week (thanks guys). OME 912s in the rear and about 9 or so cranks on my torsion bars to level out the front end. So far, I notice a big difference in rear end cushyness, which is nice.

Now, is this really all I need to do? Or is this type of "poor man's lift" not very good for longevity? I mean, would it be a good idea to replace my shocks all around? Will my torsion bars eventually sag out? I didn't do the ball joint flip. I'm getting new meat on Saturday and I will see if they have trouble with the alignment. If they can't get things straight, then I guess I will flip them.

Anyway, just looking for some commentary from everyone. What are the real world consequences I should be concerned about? I only want the best for my VX, and I would like to do all I can over the next week.

Bart

[nfpgasmask]

Just my opinion, but I would flip the b.j.s before trekking halfway across the country and realizing your expensive new tires are wearing poorly because the alignment didn't take. And consider lengthening the rear bumpstops before those expensive new tires wreak havoc on your cladding from flexing too far.

Where can I get some bumpstops fast?

Bart