Help! I've been riced

[nfpgasmask]

I'm down to help out whenever you are ready. I have any and all tools for whatever you need. I can also bring that welder over, but you'll need a large 230v receptacle ~$20 from lowes or depot. The verdict is evidently out on the muffler. My dad heard it and didn't think it sounded ricey, so it's up to you(and Clint) and the gang I hang out with at coffee to decide once and for all.

Cool man, thanks. I have a separate 220 plug in the garage, so you are saying that won't work? What does a 230v plug look like? What I really need to do is sand blast my jerry can holders and get some steel to finish that project. I want that done, my light bar, and the lift and new tires before Moab. Also, I want to get my stock VX brake pads put on and possibly stainless steel brake lines as well.

Bart

[Ascinder]

LOL, does it come in drums.....


Bart, 220 and 230 are essentially the same, depending on a variety of minute BS. What I meant was that the outlets in your house are typically not the kind used with a welder. You may need to put in a new outlet. I could sandblast your jerry cans at my dads, 'cuz the blaster isnt all that portable. I need to look at what you are doing for the lights again. I could mill some bar stock to get the angle, or we can use sheetmetal in the bending brake. Doing brake lines isn't hard, but properly bleeding the system sux. Lemme know.

[nfpgasmask]

Bart, 220 and 230 are essentially the same, depending on a variety of minute BS. What I meant was that the outlets in your house are typically not the kind used with a welder. You may need to put in a new outlet.

Come by the new crib on Saturday, I'll be there all day. You can take a look at what I have to work with.

I could sandblast your jerry cans at my dads, 'cuz the blaster isnt all that portable.

Cool, thanks. They are just caked with layers of OD Army paint and I want to strip that crap off and then respray em.

I need to look at what you are doing for the lights again. I could mill some bar stock to get the angle, or we can use sheetmetal in the bending brake. Doing brake lines isn't hard, but properly bleeding the system sux. Lemme know.

Wait a tic, you have a bender? All I really need to do is cut off the posts and then re-weld them on at the correct angle. But if you have a bender, I could just grind a notch on them, bend all four to the right angle and then touch up the weld a little. That would be way easier.

Bart

PS - Was it you LDub who said I will never be done modding?

[Ldub]

PS - Was it you LDub who said I will never be done modding?

It wouldn't surprise me...I've been known to interject a bit of reality into otherwise silly statements...

BTW, Big CONGRATS on the new abode.

Sorry to jack you're perfectly good thread Ascinder...to get back on topic, when I installed my Borla muffler, I found it to be too "raspy & rough around the edges" sounding. I found a perforated cone insert (I think from Summit Racing) that I was able to persuade into the stock 3" tip & secure with a bolt.
It took just enough of the "rough edges" off the exhaust note.

[nfpgasmask]

It wouldn't surprise me...I've been known to interject a bit of reality into otherwise silly statements...

BTW, Big CONGRATS on the new abode.

Thanks, homee!

Bart

[Ldub]

Here's a link to the insert I was talking about earlier, not cheap, but well made (stainless) & they do mellow it out by a Db or three.

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...115+4294865320

Vortex cone inserts from Dynatech easily install near the exit of the header collector or muffler outlet to reflect and dissipate sound energy, reducing the decibel level. Because the open area of the cones is greater than the area of the collector or exhaust pipe, there's no significant backpressure, so you reduce noise with little or no power loss. The cones are made from T-304 stainless steel and weigh less than 1/2 lb. each.