Hey, got a few questions

[LSkynard87]

Right now I drive a 1996 Dodge Ram 1500, with a 360 v8

well, couple years ago I saw one of these vehicross' drive by and loved them ever since, even had a little hot wheels vehicross.

Anyway, I don't want to drive my 11 mpg truck much longer, with gas prices and i'd like to start college and all.

SO,
what are the mpg of these things?
what are common problems?
are parts available for these SUV's?
how well does the 4x4 hold up?

Sorry I don't want to search for all this, if I could just get some straight up answers in one shot I would appreciate it.

Thanks.

[etlsport]

gas mileage isnt much better.. most get between 12-16 in the city and 16-20 on the highway

common problems include oil consumption, sticking windows, and torn CVs on some lifted VXs, none are that big a deal if you give some TLC to your truck

the drivetrain is shared with isuzu troopers and axioms, i think rodeos too new shipment of body parts just came across but still backorder on some parts from japan, 3-6 week delivery time

the 4x4 is pretty stout, havent heard of many people having it go out on them, there are a good number of VXs running 33's and 3-4 running 36s with some extensive modification I think i heard of one front differential being destroyed, not sure of the conditions, but i believe the truck had 33s on it and was regularly wheeled VERY hard

[LSkynard87]

well etlsport, 12-16 is a lot better than 10-12. lol.

oil consumption? Dodge's have a problem with a plenum leaking, is it something similiar?

sticking windows? ok, explain that a little.

torn CV? What's a CV?

And those parts are interchangeable i'm assuming.

I was curious about those Headlights. Any kind of aftermarket replacement?

I wouldn't drive hard on one, just want all four wheel spinning, and my 2wd is obviously incapable of it.

[etlsport]

aluminum blocks are notorious for burning oil in general, there seems to be a problem related to oil pressure (PCV valve) and the piston rings, usually never a trace of burning oil, just gone, which is why some dont realize it and then KABOOM there goes the engine, just check your oil every fillup or ever 2 fillups and youll be fine

sticking windows... the window system was not designed well, lower arm isnt really strong enough to hold the window even, so it will tilt if the tracks are dirty or not properly lubricated and the window will get stuck, after too much of it getting stuck eventually the tabs break and you either have to mcgyver a solution or order a new window

CV is a "constant velocity" joint which is a joint on the front axle that allows the wheels to continue to spin even with the wheel at an angle since we have independent front suspension, they are protected by a CV boot and the harsh angle a lift causes will sometimes tear these boots (also them drying out or an unforunately placed rock or stick) and once the boots tear, the lubrication leaks out, dirt and rocks get in and the cv joint itself will wear out and eventually go bad and need to be replaced (which i think usually just means new axle) but if you keep an eye out for tears in the boot, youll have no problems

[LSkynard87]

That CV thing sounds pretty serious. What do you do if you find a cracked boot? Are they replacable or once a crack, can't look back kind of thing? Never been around an aluminum block, well not mine anyway, but the plenum situtation is the same concept, the plenum is two parts while the intake is aluminum the bottom portion is steel or cast iron, and the heat affects the two differently so the gaskets go out fairly consistently. There is a kit that corrects that problem though, so it's really not a big thing anymore.

The window sounds like an engineering failure, but all companies have them. Has anyone adapted a stronger arm to the window?

I had a 1975 Nova that I had to use one of the female ends of an electrical connecter to hold in a part of the door handle, because I replaced them with new chrome pieces and the prior clips to hold the door opening arm to the handle had rusted through and broken.

[etlsport]

yea sbc (street boutique customs) has developed a metal channel that takes the place of the plastic tabs that break, hasnt been around long but seems to be helping many peoples window problems

the cv boots are replaceable, the replacement of them is well documented here

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...t=cv+boot+cost

the joint itself must be rebuilt if allowed to turn without lubrication and filled with debris for too long

its not a certainty that it will happen either, there are members running 33s for years without any CV problems.. then there are others who have had CV boots tear after only a month or two of lifting but looking at that link you can fix it for 36 bucks and a weekend