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Thread: FRAM vs Deutsch vs Purolator

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  1. #1
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    I need to find out what valve I have been getting from Napa. But I usually go through less than a quart of Royal Purple every 3K to 5K. I rarely check the oil nowadays actually - I should probably pay more attention though. I pour Sea Foam through the PCV port, the oil fill hole, and in the fuel tank a week before an oil change to loosen all the accumulated gunk before I change the oil to get things as clean as possible for the new stuff. I even jack up one side of the VX to get more old oil out. I use Royal Purple followed by a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil in the motor at every oil change. I also use Royal Purple in the trans, t-case, and diffs - and, no, I am not a salesman!
    Sent from my "two hands on a keyboard"

  2. #2
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    Hey dude,

    I've used the SeaFoam before, but WTF is Marvel Mystery Oil???

    I'm gonna do my diffs and trans soon, maybe I will go the Royal Purple route. Summit sells it over here in Reno. What sort of LSD additive did you use in your rear diff?

    Bart


    Quote Originally Posted by ZEUS View Post
    I need to find out what valve I have been getting from Napa. But I usually go through less than a quart of Royal Purple every 3K to 5K. I rarely check the oil nowadays actually - I should probably pay more attention though. I pour Sea Foam through the PCV port, the oil fill hole, and in the fuel tank a week before an oil change to loosen all the accumulated gunk before I change the oil to get things as clean as possible for the new stuff. I even jack up one side of the VX to get more old oil out. I use Royal Purple followed by a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil in the motor at every oil change. I also use Royal Purple in the trans, t-case, and diffs - and, no, I am not a salesman!

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by nfpgasmask View Post
    Hey dude,

    I've used the SeaFoam before, but WTF is Marvel Mystery Oil???

    I'm gonna do my diffs and trans soon, maybe I will go the Royal Purple route. Summit sells it over here in Reno. What sort of LSD additive did you use in your rear diff?

    Bart
    I didn't retain my LSD when I swapped in the 4.77's - not sure I could have. So no additive needed in my diff. I forgot what I used when I did have the LSD though.

    http://www.marvelmysteryoil.com/main.taf?p=1 I love this stuff! If stuck rings are the oiling issue with your 3.5, it might be worth it to get the spray bottle to shoot down the cylinders through the spark plug hole, let it sit awhile, crank the engine, spray some more, let it sit for a day, put the plugs back in, run it for a while, then change the oil and add a quart of MMO. Besides, it is a good idea to inspect the plugs if you are burning oil as they may be fouling.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZEUS View Post
    I didn't retain my LSD when I swapped in the 4.77's - not sure I could have. So no additive needed in my diff. I forgot what I used when I did have the LSD though.
    Yeah, I need to figure out what the best LSD additive is and how much to put in.

    Quote Originally Posted by ZEUS View Post
    http://www.marvelmysteryoil.com/main.taf?p=1 I love this stuff! If stuck rings are the oiling issue with your 3.5, it might be worth it to get the spray bottle to shoot down the cylinders through the spark plug hole, let it sit awhile, crank the engine, spray some more, let it sit for a day, put the plugs back in, run it for a while, then change the oil and add a quart of MMO. Besides, it is a good idea to inspect the plugs if you are burning oil as they may be fouling.
    Hmmm, interesting. My plugs were changed about a year ago, so I doubt there is any fouling by now, but you never know. Hopefully the Purolator valve will show some improvement. I will probably do another SeaFoam treatment next time I change the oil also....

    Thanks - Bart

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZEUS View Post
    So this stuff is another fuel additive? It does not go in the crankcase?

    I can use it anytime, right? Or is something you do about 100 miles before an oil change cause it loosens gunk up?

    Bart

  6. #6
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    when you say you put seafoam in through the pcv tube.. which one are you talking about? like where the pcv valve goes? which end?


    "Engineers believe if it ain't broke, it doesn't have enough features yet"

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by etlsport View Post
    when you say you put seafoam in through the pcv tube.. which one are you talking about? like where the pcv valve goes? which end?
    Well, I truthfully, don't know if I am doing it as directed... But I remove the PCV valve and use my funnel to put the Sea Foam into the valve cover. Tell me if you think I am doing it wrong. Here are the instructions I read:

    "With engine warm, slowly pour 1/3 to 1/2 pint through carburetor or throttle body throat. (If vehicle is port injected slowly pour SEA FOAM through direct manifold vacuum line that will feed all cylinders, possible sources are P.C.V. valve or brake booster line.) This will pull SEA FOAM down on top of the pistons and to the back of the intake valves to dissolve carbon. Turn ignition off. Restart engine after 5 minutes. If severe carbon build up is apparent, use more Sea Foam as previously directed. Make sure exhaust is well ventilated when using Sea Foam in these various ways as fumes will be extreme for a short time."

  8. #8
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    Zeus...

    If you poured it in the hose rather than into the valve cover, wouldn't it end up in the intake manifold?, instead of on top of the valvetrain...just a thought.

    Bart...
    Yeah, I meant 52k on the clock...

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by nfpgasmask View Post
    So this stuff is another fuel additive? It does not go in the crankcase?

    I can use it anytime, right? Or is something you do about 100 miles before an oil change cause it loosens gunk up?

    Bart
    MMO can be used as both an oil additive AND a fuel additive. But they do ALSO offer a fuel treatment, separately. I have never used the fuel treatment and don't know what the difference is. What I am saying is, you could use MMO as a top cylinder cleaner and carbon breaker-downer to a more extreme level. I think if a motor gets to the point like which you describe for yours, extra measures need to be taken. Top cylinder maintainence may be in order to possibly free the rings and open up the oil ports again. Taking these extra measures could break up more gunk and therefore should be done before an oil change. Adding a quart of MMO along with 4 quarts of your motor oil at every oil change after that would act as a more long term 'solution' to keep things from getting to the point you may be at now. If it had been a month since your last shower you would need a serious scrubbing, right?! After that though, the daily shower keeps you consistently clean and removes more and more gunk that was left behind during the month long hyiatus. I hope that makes sense. That is why I take so many extra steps on my '99 - it is like showering daily versus once a month, IMO.

    As per web page:
    ADDED TO ENGINE OIL:
    Marvel Mystery OilŽ should be added to your engine oil at every oil change. In a traditional automobile engine with a 5 quart oil capacity, simply replace one of the engine oil quarts with a quart of Marvel Mystery OilŽ. For your convenience, MM13R is the quart size of Marvel Mystery OilŽ and can be found at most automotive parts and supply retailers and mass merchants. Marvel is also safe and effective to use with synthetic and synthetic-blend motor oils.

    When added to engine oil, Marvel reduces and prevents valve sticking and clatter by breaking down harmful deposits of carbon and sludge. Oftentimes, valve sticking can be identified by a “ticking” sound coming from the engine compartment when the engine is running. This ticking sound will increase and decrease with the speed of the engine.

    Marvel Mystery OilŽ fortifies the properties of motor oil, both traditional and synthetic. Marvel prevents oil breakdown caused by extreme temperatures. In addition, Marvel promotes easier cold weather starting with its extremely low pour point of (-65˚) Fahrenheit and ability to eliminate oil’s tendency to congeal at low temperatures.

    Sludge build-up in newer and older engines can result in lower performance and life expectancy. Marvel Mystery OilŽ will prevent sludge build up from occurring in new engines and removes sludge from older engines. In newer engines, Marvel Mystery OilŽ protects against scoring or seizing and creates a highly polished, wear resistant finish on engine surfaces. You’re new engine will remain new engine clean and your older engine will thank you for cleaning the insides!

    ADDED TO GAS OR DIESEL:
    Marvel Mystery OilŽ lubricates the entire fuel system-fuel pumps, fuel injectors or carburetors and the top-portion of the cylinders. These are areas, that by design, motor oil does not reach. Using Marvel Mystery OilŽ in your fuel extends the life of these vital components by providing them with lubrication that fuel alone does not provide.

    Marvel Mystery OilŽ reduces and prevents varnish and gum build-up, two key contributors to robbing engine performance. When you shut off your engine, a miniscule drop of fuel is left at the tip of the fuel injectors or carburetor jets. This miniscule drop of fuel then solidifies into a varnish type residue. Over time, the accumulated varnish blocks the openings of the injectors or jets, contributing to lower performance and fuel economy and shorter life of these components.

    Spark plug life is also extended by using Marvel Mystery OilŽ in your fuel. Marvel creates a cleaner burning cylinder environment that reduces carbon build-up on spark plugs resulting in better firing plugs that increase performance and durability.

    In addition, Marvel Mystery OilŽ improves fuel mileage by reducing internal friction in the engine.

    Marvel Mystery OilŽ should be used in the fuel at every fill-up. Use 4 ounces of Marvel Mystery OilŽ for every 10 gallons of fuel.

  10. #10
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    Marvel Mystery Oil Users?

    Who else uses MMO? I remember in the '60's, my uncle used it but don't really hear much about it nowadays. I use Castrol's 0w30 (german formula and group 4 oil, not group 3 oil) with a Mobil 1 filter since it filters smaller particles than the K&N filter and everything is clean as a whistle inside the engine. I also use Techron fuel conditioner every 3-4000 miles. I have no oil burn off or useage at all so i'm pretty happy. After re-reading on MMO, i may consider using it every tankful too but i'm not sure it's worth it. Some have stated mileage improvement.....really? and how much? I'm always trying to find ways to boost it a bit.
    Scott

  11. #11
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    My VX is changing so often I can't really get a good consistent mpg reading. Bigger tires to a lift to lower gears to 2wd, back to awd, roof rack then no roof rack and back to roof rack again, rocker guards to no rocker guards to even bigger tires.

    Bart, the PCV valve I have been using is an Echlin from Napa; it's like $10.

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