Cross Drilled or Slotted Rotors??

[johnnyapollo]

I have both cross-drilled and slotted rotors - no structural issues at all, but I don't recommend them because of the constant dust that scatters when you brake - the dust impregnates your wheels and can score the chrome or polished aluminum - in some cases when the dust gets wet it will pit your wheels - at minimum it's a pita to get off. The other issue is that the constant cutting action wears your pads down very quickly - something to consider.

-- John

[Ldub]

I have both cross-drilled and slotted rotors - no structural issues at all, but I don't recommend them because of the constant dust that scatters when you brake - the dust impregnates your wheels and can score the chrome or polished aluminum - in some cases when the dust gets wet it will pit your wheels - at minimum it's a pita to get off. The other issue is that the constant cutting action wears your pads down very quickly - something to consider.

-- John

What pads are you using ?

[johnnyapollo]

Stock Isuzu pads - someone posted a review of several and the stock pads won out as the best from the group tested on the VX.

-- John

[Ldub]

Stock Isuzu pads - someone posted a review of several and the stock pads won out as the best from the group tested on the VX.

-- John

The reason I asked is because I've always thought the stock pads did a great job of stopping me before impact, but I also like the fact that that they're nearly dust free compared to other cars I've owned. The increased dusting with drilled/slotted rotors is something I haven't heard of before.
Thanks.

[Cyrk]

Power Slot rotors... been using them for ever on my VX, with the stock pads... no problems.



http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...ar=&perfCode=S

[johnnyapollo]

Slots basically carve away the pad - the more you brake the more that gets removed (the new surface provides better braking). Cross drilling provides better ventilation to diminish heat associated with braking (as does venting - VX discs are already vented).

-- John

[VehiGAZ]

the dust impregnates your wheels

Is that where 14" wheels come from?

[Lizardmen3477]

He Cyrk, what caliper paint did u use and how is it holding up im painting mine soon as well.

[Cyrk]

I used G2 and now it is starting to peel...

[Kenny]

SP Performance cross drilled and slotted. With EBC green brake pads.

I would strongly suggest you get your discs with a nickel plating coating or such. I got mine with just the shipping coating that wears off after a bit, so then I have to paint them to keep them from showing rust at the edges and in the grooves.

The EBC pads I use are "stickier" than the stock, but give a tad more dust. It takes a week to build up a layer than you can see. I'd recommend stock from Merlin, they're only a tad more than EBC.



BTW, I don't really see the benefit for "high temp" paint on our calipers. I used Tremclad primer and then fire red enamel (3 coats).
With a good cleaning, they still look like the day I painted them 2 years ago - no flaking or adverse effects from braking heat (they even stood up to a bit of brake fluid)

[nfpgasmask]

I am running the R1 Concepts pads and drilled/slotted rotors. Quite honestly, I am not happy with my brake situation at the moment. I find that I have to stand on the brake pedal sometimes to get my VX stopped in a hurry. With my stock rotors and pads I could stop on a dime. However, my problem is, I don't know if it is the pads or the rotors that suck (or both). I am probably going to replace my R1 pads with some stock pads and see if it makes a difference. If not, then I will do away with the R1 rotors and try something else....

That said, Biju has had good results with his R1s, but I don't think he has R1 pads, and I know he also has better brake lines installed as well. Hopefully he will chime in...

Bart

[Kenny]

I am running the R1 Concepts pads and drilled/slotted rotors. Quite honestly, I am not happy with my brake situation at the moment. I find that I have to stand on the brake pedal sometimes to get my VX stopped in a hurry. With my stock rotors and pads I could stop on a dime. However, my problem is, I don't know if it is the pads or the rotors that suck (or both). I am probably going to replace my R1 pads with some stock pads and see if it makes a difference. If not, then I will do away with the R1 rotors and try something else....

That said, Biju has had good results with his R1s, but I don't think he has R1 pads, and I know he also has better brake lines installed as well. Hopefully he will chime in...

Bart

I too had to stand on my brakes to stay stopped (and weren't enough to stop me on down slopes ) and went through the whole upgrade thing...
ss brake lines, bleed-bleed-bleeeeeeed...., discs, and finally new pads.

In the end I found it was the new pads (being thicker added to the thicker new discs). It wasn't anything with grip, I seemed to need more meat - the pistons appeared to be "reaching" too much with the worn pads and worn discs. Doesn't make too much sense when thinking in terms of brake line pressure... but now it grips as I step down and locks up about 75% of the way when stopped - as opposed to having to keep it to the floor to stay stopped.

[nfpgasmask]

Kenny,

Thanks for posting this. What you describe is EXACTLY what I am having trouble with. If I am going say 50mph on a downgrade, and I have to brake hard for some idiot in front of me who didn't put his indicator on, I have to mash HARD on my brakes.

So, what you are saying is that the pads are not thick enough to "reach" the rotor? It sounds like I need to invest in some new pads....

Rip the system,

Bart

I too had to stand on my brakes to stay stopped (and weren't enough to stop me on down slopes ) and went through the whole upgrade thing...
ss brake lines, bleed-bleed-bleeeeeeed...., discs, and finally new pads.

In the end I found it was the new pads (being thicker added to the thicker new discs). It wasn't anything with grip, I seemed to need more meat - the pistons appeared to be "reaching" too much with the worn pads and worn discs. Doesn't make too much sense when thinking in terms of brake line pressure... but now it grips as I step down and locks up about 75% of the way when stopped - as opposed to having to keep it to the floor to stay stopped.

[Joe_Black]

I chose the Axxis pads based on what a lot of the Subie crowd was running at the rallycross events and rallysprints, plus there are a couple of VX'ers who have had great results with them.

[Jolly Roger VX'er]

I'm running R1 Concepts with PBR/AXXIS Ultimate Pads with Independent 4X4 S.S. brake lines and flushed the braking system before refilling with Valvoline Synthetic dot 3 & 4 brake fluid (still glycol based).

I spiked the brakes at about 50mph after they were broke in and it stopped on a dime & gave me 9 cents of change back! I just hope it stays that way!

I did alot of reading on the internet about drilled, slotted rotors to understand it myself. As mentioned in earlier posts....cross-drilled rotors help to vent/shed heat away. Slotted rotors help to "scrape" or "freshen" the pad surface to keep your pads at optimum levels of performance. Drilled & Slotted rotors supposedly offer both features in one package.

Reading this I would expect more amounts of brake dust from slotted rotors as they are scraping the pads. I have noticed more brake dust on my wheels but simply clean them periodically with wheel cleaner when washing the VX.