How "screwed" am I, literally.

[nfpgasmask]

OK, so my oil drain plug is leaking. I changed my oil last week, and noticed drips this morning. I gave the plug a quarter turn thinking maybe I didn't tighten enough last time. This made it worse. The oil then started dripping faster. So, I figure its my copper washer, since I haven't replaced that in a while. So I went out and got a new one, and basically changed my oil again. I put the new washer on the plug and closed everything up.

The situation has not changed. Drip. Drip. Drip.

So, did I over tighten? Did I strip my threads?

Worst case scenario I guess would be a new oil pan. Is this something I should be able to get from Merlin or a salvage yard? Also, it looks like I could drop the oil pan without much trouble. There is a cross member there but it does not appear to be in the way too much. If this ends up being my solution, how screwed am I from a time/work/money point of view?

What about the Fumato valve option?

Uggg - Bart

[rowhard]

I don't know, maybe this isn't a good idea, but what about some teflon tape around the threads?????

[Triathlete]

Not sure if the teflon tape will hold up to the heat. If you could find a plug slightly larger you could re-thread the hole. Just have to be sure to get ALL the shavings out of the pan!

[Ldub]

Drop the oil again, & feel the inside of the drain hole with your finger to see if there are any sharp edges...if you draw back a bloody stump, you prolly did some damage to the threads.
OR I suppose you could put a rag over your finger & see if it snags on the sharp edges that used to be your threads, & forgo the whole "bloody stump" thing.

I wouldn't use a Fumoto valve until you get a belly pan, to prevent removal by a rock.

If it's just buggered up a little, you may be able to chase the threads with the appropriate size tap...coated with grease or vaseline to trap any shavings.

[nfpgasmask]

Thanks guys. What about replacing the pan? Is that a stupid idea because it costs too much? I mean, I don't care about the money, as long as it isn't astronomical.

I don't know how I could have stripped it, but something ain't right here.

Bart

[Ldub]

I don't know how hard it is to pull the pan, as I've never had mine off, but it would seem the method of last resort to me.
Of course, I'm kinda lazy & always try the E-Z fix first.

[rowhard]

Ldub, me too,.. on the E-Z fix. That's why I suggetsed the teflon tape. Not sure if there are different spec tapes, but I remember the Hyd. folks using it on aircraft hyd's, and those systems can get pretty hot.

[Joe_Black]

I wouldn't use a Fumoto valve until you get a belly pan, to prevent removal by a rock.

If you lose a Fumoto valve to a rock you've already lost a lot more to be concerned about.

Have you tried a plastic oil-drain washer? That's what I used before the wondrous Fumoto valve, and they're available at AutoZone and similar for less than a buck.

[nfpgasmask]

Hey Joe,

Right now I have a new copper washer on there. Its only dripping every so slightly, but the problem is I can't seem to get it to seal. I am afraid to try to tighten it more.

I have heard of rubber plugs too, but I don't know how that holds up to the heat either.

Is replacing the oil pan really that big of a deal? Looking under there it just looks like a bunch of bolts and you are home free. But trust me, I don't want to make matters worse.

Bart

If you lose a Fumoto valve to a rock you've already lost a lot more to be concerned about.

Have you tried a plastic oil-drain washer? That's what I used before the wondrous Fumoto valve, and they're available at AutoZone and similar for less than a buck.

[Chopper]

I don't think I'd tap it, or run a thread chaser thru there with it in place...pull it, run a larger tap thru there, and fit the corresponding bolt and washer to it. Or, just spend the $162.00, and pick up a new one...since you got it off and all

[nfpgasmask]

Yeah, if its $162 for a new pan, and the labor is something I can tackle myself, I would much rather go that route.

Bart

I don't think I'd tap it, or run a thread chaser thru there with it in place...pull it, run a larger tap thru there, and fit the corresponding bolt and washer to it. Or, just spend the $162.00, and pick up a new one...since you got it off and all

[Chopper]

The labor is nothing, really. Don't over tighten the pan bolts. Go to Ace, or Home Depot and buy a 30 buck torque wrench, and use it. The torque numbers are in the shop manual. Pick up the new gasket too.The Torque wrench will come in handy, when you do your wheel bearings and such.

[newthings]

Not to hijack the thread but --
If the pan is so easy to remove, then access to the rod bottoms should be easy. If that is so, then replacing the rod bering inserts from the bottom might be a good PM at 60+K? Yes?? I thought a bunch of hardware was in the way, but I never looked hard. I just turned 60K.
Roy

[nfpgasmask]

I will replace my pan if:

1) I can get a NEW one for under $300

2) I can do the work myself with out too much hassle

So Chop, have you dropped the VX oil pan before? It looks like all the bolts should be accessible and the cross member shouldn't be in the way. That is my only concern. I would imagine a new pan should come with a new gasket.

The annoying thing is that I have been changing my own oil with no leaks, and no problems for well over a year now and all of a sudden I have this problem? Maybe last time I changed my oil I somehow started the plug in at a slight angle and didn't notice or something....that's the only thing I can think of.

Bart

[Raque Thomas]

What about the product they use for stripped spark plugs - is it helicoil? I'd sure hate to pull that pan if there was an easier method that was pretty fool proof. They use this stuff for spark plug holes, so I'm sure it can stand the pressure and heat.