How "screwed" am I, literally.

[nfpgasmask]

Yeah, if its $162 for a new pan, and the labor is something I can tackle myself, I would much rather go that route.

Bart

I don't think I'd tap it, or run a thread chaser thru there with it in place...pull it, run a larger tap thru there, and fit the corresponding bolt and washer to it. Or, just spend the $162.00, and pick up a new one...since you got it off and all

[Chopper]

The labor is nothing, really. Don't over tighten the pan bolts. Go to Ace, or Home Depot and buy a 30 buck torque wrench, and use it. The torque numbers are in the shop manual. Pick up the new gasket too.The Torque wrench will come in handy, when you do your wheel bearings and such.

[newthings]

Not to hijack the thread but --
If the pan is so easy to remove, then access to the rod bottoms should be easy. If that is so, then replacing the rod bering inserts from the bottom might be a good PM at 60+K? Yes?? I thought a bunch of hardware was in the way, but I never looked hard. I just turned 60K.
Roy

[nfpgasmask]

I will replace my pan if:

1) I can get a NEW one for under $300

2) I can do the work myself with out too much hassle

So Chop, have you dropped the VX oil pan before? It looks like all the bolts should be accessible and the cross member shouldn't be in the way. That is my only concern. I would imagine a new pan should come with a new gasket.

The annoying thing is that I have been changing my own oil with no leaks, and no problems for well over a year now and all of a sudden I have this problem? Maybe last time I changed my oil I somehow started the plug in at a slight angle and didn't notice or something....that's the only thing I can think of.

Bart

[Raque Thomas]

What about the product they use for stripped spark plugs - is it helicoil? I'd sure hate to pull that pan if there was an easier method that was pretty fool proof. They use this stuff for spark plug holes, so I'm sure it can stand the pressure and heat.

[IndianaVX]

Raque,
you beat me to it.....thats what i was thinking also, but i think you have to chase the threads for the coil to fit, so probably back to just tapping the hole again, and getting a bigger bolt. oh well
good luck with it bart. i would think it would be cheapest to just get a gasket, a tap, and matching plug.......the plug doesnt have to be oem. just has to stop the oil from comming out

[nfpgasmask]

OK, I just did a search and the best info I could find came in this thread.

I PMed Tobert to see if I can get a little more info about his experinece.

So, it looks like it might take some time and a little muscle, but I should be able to get the pan off.

Now, my question would then be, how much worse might my problem get if this turns out to be a pain to seal? The last thing I want, is to have a leaking oil pan as opposed to a slight drip coming from my plug.

Looks like the job to fix this might be a little more than I think...but I guess that is usually the way this stuff goes.

Bart

PS - I have heard good things about the Snap-On brand troque wrench. So aside from the Snap-On truck, where can I get one?

[uncle_asa]

May be with the washer you had to replace the bolt itself?

[Joe_Black]

I've never had problems with the AutoZone plastic washers at all and they also have replacement oil plugs/bolts as well. So for a total parts investment of less than $4 plus the oil you can determine whether or not you need to monkey with the pan. Simple. If your averse to a Fumoto installation, do as Chopper suggests and chase the threads. Just remember that there is a difference between a tap designed to chase/clean threads and one to cut new threads. These are simple solutions for a simple problem, too simple to be sweating pan replacement.

If it does come to that, pan replacement is simple also. Just make sure you have a new gasket and a torque wrench as it's all to easy to over-torque and consequently break pan bolts.

[nfpgasmask]

Well, it all depends on how easy it is to drop the pan, and also if that is not a process that could affect my VX in a negative way.

Bart

What about the product they use for stripped spark plugs - is it helicoil? I'd sure hate to pull that pan if there was an easier method that was pretty fool proof. They use this stuff for spark plug holes, so I'm sure it can stand the pressure and heat.

[nfpgasmask]

OK, just read the last couple posts from everyone. I'm gonna call my local dealer and Merlin tomorow and inquire about a new pan, gasket and plug. I like to take the best route as opposed to the cheap route. And if it is easy to drop that pan, then I shall. I am even willing to invest in a decent torque wrench to add to my tool collection also.

What brand/size torque wrench do you suggest I get for this job?

Thanks a bunch guys.

Bart

[patrick cooper]

had the same problem used 6 wraps of plumbers p,t,f,e tape around threds and used a softer aluminiun washer tape takes 600 degrees centrade so no problem with heat

[nfpgasmask]

Well, then you have to change out that tape every time you change your oil, right?

I am really hoping a new plug and a softer washer will do the trick. This whole business of changing out the oil pan is probably going to be a much bigger undertaking than it looks to be.

Bart

had the same problem used 6 wraps of plumbers p,t,f,e tape around threds and used a softer aluminiun washer tape takes 600 degrees centrade so no problem with heat