How "screwed" am I, literally.

[Joe_Black]

I wouldn't use a Fumoto valve until you get a belly pan, to prevent removal by a rock.

If you lose a Fumoto valve to a rock you've already lost a lot more to be concerned about.

Have you tried a plastic oil-drain washer? That's what I used before the wondrous Fumoto valve, and they're available at AutoZone and similar for less than a buck.

[nfpgasmask]

Hey Joe,

Right now I have a new copper washer on there. Its only dripping every so slightly, but the problem is I can't seem to get it to seal. I am afraid to try to tighten it more.

I have heard of rubber plugs too, but I don't know how that holds up to the heat either.

Is replacing the oil pan really that big of a deal? Looking under there it just looks like a bunch of bolts and you are home free. But trust me, I don't want to make matters worse.

Bart

If you lose a Fumoto valve to a rock you've already lost a lot more to be concerned about.

Have you tried a plastic oil-drain washer? That's what I used before the wondrous Fumoto valve, and they're available at AutoZone and similar for less than a buck.

[Chopper]

I don't think I'd tap it, or run a thread chaser thru there with it in place...pull it, run a larger tap thru there, and fit the corresponding bolt and washer to it. Or, just spend the $162.00, and pick up a new one...since you got it off and all

[nfpgasmask]

Yeah, if its $162 for a new pan, and the labor is something I can tackle myself, I would much rather go that route.

Bart

I don't think I'd tap it, or run a thread chaser thru there with it in place...pull it, run a larger tap thru there, and fit the corresponding bolt and washer to it. Or, just spend the $162.00, and pick up a new one...since you got it off and all

[Chopper]

The labor is nothing, really. Don't over tighten the pan bolts. Go to Ace, or Home Depot and buy a 30 buck torque wrench, and use it. The torque numbers are in the shop manual. Pick up the new gasket too.The Torque wrench will come in handy, when you do your wheel bearings and such.

[newthings]

Not to hijack the thread but --
If the pan is so easy to remove, then access to the rod bottoms should be easy. If that is so, then replacing the rod bering inserts from the bottom might be a good PM at 60+K? Yes?? I thought a bunch of hardware was in the way, but I never looked hard. I just turned 60K.
Roy

[nfpgasmask]

I will replace my pan if:

1) I can get a NEW one for under $300

2) I can do the work myself with out too much hassle

So Chop, have you dropped the VX oil pan before? It looks like all the bolts should be accessible and the cross member shouldn't be in the way. That is my only concern. I would imagine a new pan should come with a new gasket.

The annoying thing is that I have been changing my own oil with no leaks, and no problems for well over a year now and all of a sudden I have this problem? Maybe last time I changed my oil I somehow started the plug in at a slight angle and didn't notice or something....that's the only thing I can think of.

Bart

[Raque Thomas]

What about the product they use for stripped spark plugs - is it helicoil? I'd sure hate to pull that pan if there was an easier method that was pretty fool proof. They use this stuff for spark plug holes, so I'm sure it can stand the pressure and heat.

[Ldub]

If you lose a Fumoto valve to a rock you've already lost a lot more to be concerned about.

Nothing against the Fumoto valve Joe, I have one myself & think it's the greatest thing since sliced bread...however, I use the one with a nipple on it & it does hang down almost an inch lower than the bottom of the pan.
In my usage application, every inch of ground clearance matters & any unprotected protrusion is a potential strap ride back to civilization.