I don't know, maybe this isn't a good idea, but what about some teflon tape around the threads?????
I don't know, maybe this isn't a good idea, but what about some teflon tape around the threads?????
Greetings, Earthling. We come in peace... Never mind "Paris to Dakar", the VehiCROSS looks ready for the Martian desert.
Not sure if the teflon tape will hold up to the heat. If you could find a plug slightly larger you could re-thread the hole. Just have to be sure to get ALL the shavings out of the pan!
Billy Oliver
15xIronman
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Drop the oil again, & feel the inside of the drain hole with your finger to see if there are any sharp edges...if you draw back a bloody stump, you prolly did some damage to the threads.
OR I suppose you could put a rag over your finger & see if it snags on the sharp edges that used to be your threads, & forgo the whole "bloody stump" thing.![]()
I wouldn't use a Fumoto valve until you get a belly pan, to prevent removal by a rock.
If it's just buggered up a little, you may be able to chase the threads with the appropriate size tap...coated with grease or vaseline to trap any shavings.
Thanks guys. What about replacing the pan? Is that a stupid idea because it costs too much? I mean, I don't care about the money, as long as it isn't astronomical.
I don't know how I could have stripped it, but something ain't right here.
Bart
I don't know how hard it is to pull the pan, as I've never had mine off, but it would seem the method of last resort to me.
Of course, I'm kinda lazy & always try the E-Z fix first.![]()
Ldub, me too,.. on the E-Z fix. That's why I suggetsed the teflon tape. Not sure if there are different spec tapes, but I remember the Hyd. folks using it on aircraft hyd's, and those systems can get pretty hot.
If you lose a Fumoto valve to a rock you've already lost a lot more to be concerned about.Originally Posted by Ldub
Have you tried a plastic oil-drain washer? That's what I used before the wondrous Fumoto valve, and they're available at AutoZone and similar for less than a buck.
Over 20 years of Isuzu enjoyment...
Hey Joe,
Right now I have a new copper washer on there. Its only dripping every so slightly, but the problem is I can't seem to get it to seal. I am afraid to try to tighten it more.
I have heard of rubber plugs too, but I don't know how that holds up to the heat either.
Is replacing the oil pan really that big of a deal? Looking under there it just looks like a bunch of bolts and you are home free. But trust me, I don't want to make matters worse.
Bart
Originally Posted by Joe_Black
I don't think I'd tap it, or run a thread chaser thru there with it in place...pull it, run a larger tap thru there, and fit the corresponding bolt and washer to it. Or, just spend the $162.00, and pick up a new one...since you got it off and all![]()
Yeah, if its $162 for a new pan, and the labor is something I can tackle myself, I would much rather go that route.
Bart
Originally Posted by Chopper
The labor is nothing, really. Don't over tighten the pan bolts. Go to Ace, or Home Depot and buy a 30 buck torque wrench, and use it. The torque numbers are in the shop manual. Pick up the new gasket too.The Torque wrench will come in handy, when you do your wheel bearings and such.
Not to hijack the thread but --
If the pan is so easy to remove, then access to the rod bottoms should be easy. If that is so, then replacing the rod bering inserts from the bottom might be a good PM at 60+K? Yes?? I thought a bunch of hardware was in the way, but I never looked hard. I just turned 60K.
Roy
Nothing against the Fumoto valve Joe, I have one myself & think it's the greatest thing since sliced bread...however, I use the one with a nipple on it & it does hang down almost an inch lower than the bottom of the pan.Originally Posted by Joe_Black
In my usage application, every inch of ground clearance matters & any unprotected protrusion is a potential strap ride back to civilization.![]()