How "screwed" am I, literally.

[tom4bren]

"If the problem is the threads, a plastic washer isn't going to help. You'll need a new plug."

I don't agree. If the threads were the sole means of sealing the drain then spiral leaks would be a constant issue and teflon tape would be used to make the seal. The seal should be the washer (be it copper or nylon).

Just my 2 cents worth.

[patrick cooper]

had the same problem used 6 wraps of plumbers p,t,f,e tape around threds and used a softer aluminiun washer tape takes 600 degrees centrade so no problem with heat

[nfpgasmask]

Hey Tone,

Have you changed out the bottom oil pan before? Looking at the bottom half of the oil pan, it looks like all the bolts are accessible, and it looks like the pan will clear that cross member. From everyone I have talked with about it, it looks like we shouldn't have to do any "extra" work, but that aside, I haven't really gotten any 100% confident info from anyone.

So, what does lifting the engine a little entail? Is this because the bottom half of the pan won't clear the cross member with enough room to get it all the way off?

I'm hoping I don't have to go this route to begin with, but just in case I do, I have a new bottom oil pan on the way.

Thanks,

Bart

The motor WILL have to lifted part of the way out to change the main oil pan. I have a spare if it gets to that - let me know.

[nfpgasmask]

Well, then you have to change out that tape every time you change your oil, right?

I am really hoping a new plug and a softer washer will do the trick. This whole business of changing out the oil pan is probably going to be a much bigger undertaking than it looks to be.

Bart

had the same problem used 6 wraps of plumbers p,t,f,e tape around threds and used a softer aluminiun washer tape takes 600 degrees centrade so no problem with heat

[Joe_Black]

I am really hoping a new plug and a softer washer will do the trick. This whole business of changing out the oil pan is probably going to be a much bigger undertaking than it looks to be.

Bart

For the small amount of money and effort a new plug and plastic washer take you'll likely find it an adequate solution. The threads are probably buggered up a bit, but it'd literally take months and months of dripping without you ever checking the oil to lower the level significantly and it's not like the oil pan is under any kind of pressure that would blow out a sizeable bolt that has marginal seating. Yes, it's annoying to have some oil on the ground. Drive a Detroit Diesel 8V71 for a while and you'll never pay any attention to a drip or two ever again.

[nfpgasmask]

BUT JOE! ITS MY VX!!!!

Yeah, I know it isn't that serious. Its just annoying because I like my VX in top shape! I'm gonna try a new plug this week and pray it works for me. Aside from oil on my garage floor, I really don't like spilling it all over the road either....

I am just getting worried that changing out the pan is going to be a much, much bigger task and probably something I should not attempt myself, even though I am eager to learn and do these things. Too bad my VX is my only form of transportation...at the moment (the Falcon isn't here just yet).

Bart

For the small amount of money and effort a new plug and plastic washer take you'll likely find it an adequate solution. The threads are probably buggered up a bit, but it'd literally take months and months of dripping without you ever checking the oil to lower the level significantly and it's not like the oil pan is under any kind of pressure that would blow out a sizeable bolt that has marginal seating. Yes, it's annoying to have some oil on the ground. Drive a Detroit Diesel 8V71 for a while and you'll never pay any attention to a drip or two ever again.

[psychos2]

The washer is what seals the drain plug, not the threads. A new washer should take care of it unless the plug is going in at an angle so the gasket cannot seal.
shawn

[IndianaVX]

if you remove the pan, i would suggest this item for an easier installation. or i think easier, havent done it on a vx, but when i replaced my pan after an new engine install, i either found, or they came with the pan gasket these little clip things. turn your imagination on here........these things are about 1/4" round, and about 1 1/2" long. they are threaded on one end, and have little "barbs" on the other.

what you do is this,
you screw 4 of them in the bolt holes for the pan on 4 corners, in the block.....then, you lay your gasket, or in our case apperantly, bead of silicone around the pan.
then, you get under the truck, and line up the clip thingies with the corrosponding holes in the pan, and push up until the little barbs click the pan in place, and hold it there. now you can free up your hands to install all the other bolts snug, then remove/unscrew the clippy things, and install the last 4 bolts in their place. then tourqe everything down.
with these clips, once your pan is "clipped" in place, you dont have to worry about scraping the silicone off like you would if you were laying under your truck, bolts in your mouth, pan on your belly, hoping you can line up a hole and get a bolt in there and not smear silicone everywere but where its supposed to be trying to get another bolt from your mouth to its appropriate hole.
am i making sense? like i said, i dont know if autozone carries these, or if i got them with a gasket, but they sure made things easy-peasy. maybe someone else knows what they are called, and where to get em. i still have mine if you cant find em, and want to use them, ill send em to you. but i might want to check on thread size. its probably the same.
i will try to post a pic of these gems for clarification purposes

david

[nfpgasmask]

David, sounds like an interesting little tool tip!

My problem is that now Tone is telling me the engine will need to be lifted a little to remove the pan, and I have no idea what that entails, and I really don't think that is a task I can do myself. So, I am really hoping a new plug and gasket will do the trick.

Bart

[JHarris1385]

I would say a softer washer (nylon,rubber,plastic) will do the trick. Something that compresses slightly easier than copper to create a better seal. Then if that works, get a fumoto, or autozone actually has some for $12.99 but by a different manufacturer.

On the other hand, unbolting the crossmember does not seem to difficult and from the looks of it, that is all at most that would need to be done to get that pan off. I give this opinion becuase I almost dropped my pan last oil change just to re-seal it and clean off some gunk that resides around the front bolts on the pan.

[nfpgasmask]

Yeah, I am probably going to try to fix it tonight with a new plug and washer.

I would just like to talk with a mech who has dropped the pan before who knows absolutely the process here, because I have heard too many mixed opinions to know for sure. The last thing I want is to go under there, unbolt everything and knock loose the pan and then find out I can't get it all the way off. Then I will REALLY be screwed.

But I agree. From the looks of everything, the pan bolts are all accessible and it looks like there is enough room to drop it without doing anything other than unbolting.

Bart

I would say a softer washer (nylon,rubber,plastic) will do the trick. Something that compresses slightly easier than copper to create a better seal. Then if that works, get a fumoto, or autozone actually has some for $12.99 but by a different manufacturer.

On the other hand, unbolting the crossmember does not seem to difficult and from the looks of it, that is all at most that would need to be done to get that pan off. I give this opinion becuase I almost dropped my pan last oil change just to re-seal it and clean off some gunk that resides around the front bolts on the pan.

[nfpgasmask]

So, I went to Kragen and bought a magnetic oil pan plug with nylon gasket.

Got home, unscrewed the old plug and OMFG! How in the h3ll did I do this:



The threads on the old plug were basically completely flat!!!

After the oil drained out, I cleaned up around the drain hole and then jacked up the front end, and shined a flashlight into the hole. I could see a little piece of stripped metal around the inner threads which I pulled out with some needle nose pliers. Behold:



I waited a little while until the pan and oil cooled a little, and then I stuck my finger up the hole and the threads of the pan felt fine. So I then screwed in the new plug. It went in smooth and easy, and I did thread it in and out a couple times, using the magnetic tip to extract a few more tiny metal shavings from the pan threads.

After this thorough job, I closed everything up, and then changed the oil filter and refilled with fresh oil.

NO LEAKING!!!!

So, in the end, somehow I must have cross threaded the plug in last time I changed my oil and not just buggered up a little, but completely destroyed the original plug. Lucky for me, the threads on the inside of the pan did not suffer and significant damage, and my VX isn't bleeding anymore.

Whew. I'm happy now. Thanks everyone for all your help and knowledge.

Bart

[Ldub]

Said it before & I'll say it again...I just LOVE a happy ending!

Well done Bart, also, nice photography!

[etlsport]

what size plug did u get.. is there just a 22mm oil pan plug on the shelf? id like to find one of those since im constantly worried about metal in my oil... although i guess w/ an aluminum engine a magnet wouldnt do much good...

anyway glad it worked out for u!

[IndianaVX]

good job bart.....well, not on threading the origonal bolt in, but ...glad you got it fixed!!
and might i add....GREAT PICS!! *self* ((i cant hijack barts thread to find out what camera was used....yeah david, dont do that, i must not hijack, i must not hijack, let him bask in the joy of fixing his oil lead sucessfully))

job well done......