How "screwed" am I, literally.

[tom4bren]

I've never pulled the pan from the VX but I have pulled one on a Dodge (eons ago). Remember that the pan is just in fact that - a pan. The oil pump reaches all the way to the bottom of the pan to suck up oil. There may be a screen on the end as well which would be about as big as half a coke can - then again there may not be.

The bottom line is that the pan will probably have to be lowered at least the depth of the pan in order to clear the intake. If you don't have that much clearance between the bottom of the pan and the crossmember then the crossmember will have to be moved/removed.

I think I would try the nylon washer route before swapping out the pan.

[nfpgasmask]

Hey, well, I got another reply back from Tobert and he said it is a little tight but shouldn't be a problem to remove. The cross member isn't really in the way.

But anyway, I am going to try a new plug today or tomorrow and see if I can get away with that.

Bart

I've never pulled the pan from the VX but I have pulled one on a Dodge (eons ago). Remember that the pan is just in fact that - a pan. The oil pump reaches all the way to the bottom of the pan to suck up oil. There may be a screen on the end as well which would be about as big as half a coke can - then again there may not be.

The bottom line is that the pan will probably have to be lowered at least the depth of the pan in order to clear the intake. If you don't have that much clearance between the bottom of the pan and the crossmember then the crossmember will have to be moved/removed.

I think I would try the nylon washer route before swapping out the pan.

[VehiGAZ]

Re: #3) Yes, you risk shaving metal into the engine, but yes, the filter should remove it. Still, you never know...

Re: "If the threads get stripped, is it usually the threads on the plug or the threads in the pan or both?" Good engineering practice would be to make the smaller removable piece (the plug) out of a softer metal than the larger and harder-to-remove piece (the pan) so that the plug gets sacrificed. But I don't think they always do that.

Examine the threads on the plug closely - use a magnifying glass if you can - and see what there is to see. Are there some threads that seem crushed in? Are there some that look like uneven compared to the rest? Do any show a glint of fresh metal? If you've stripped the threads or cross-threaded it, you should see some sign of unnatural wear.

If the problem is the threads, a plastic washer isn't going to help. You'll need a new plug.

Good luck!!

[Triathlete]

If your worried about the shavings when you put the new plug in you could always buy one of the magnetic plugs. Then screw it in, take it back out, remove any shavings stuck to it, reinsert and fill with oil!

[nfpgasmask]

Yeah, that is probably the route I will take....

Thanks- Bart

If your worried about the shavings when you put the new plug in you could always buy one of the magnetic plugs. Then screw it in, take it back out, remove any shavings stuck to it, reinsert and fill with oil!

[Tone]

The motor WILL have to lifted part of the way out to change the main oil pan. I have a spare if it gets to that - let me know.

[tom4bren]

"If the problem is the threads, a plastic washer isn't going to help. You'll need a new plug."

I don't agree. If the threads were the sole means of sealing the drain then spiral leaks would be a constant issue and teflon tape would be used to make the seal. The seal should be the washer (be it copper or nylon).

Just my 2 cents worth.

[nfpgasmask]

Hey Tone,

Have you changed out the bottom oil pan before? Looking at the bottom half of the oil pan, it looks like all the bolts are accessible, and it looks like the pan will clear that cross member. From everyone I have talked with about it, it looks like we shouldn't have to do any "extra" work, but that aside, I haven't really gotten any 100% confident info from anyone.

So, what does lifting the engine a little entail? Is this because the bottom half of the pan won't clear the cross member with enough room to get it all the way off?

I'm hoping I don't have to go this route to begin with, but just in case I do, I have a new bottom oil pan on the way.

Thanks,

Bart

The motor WILL have to lifted part of the way out to change the main oil pan. I have a spare if it gets to that - let me know.