Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 18

Thread: Rear Speakers......

  1. #1
    Member Since
    Aug 2003
    Location
    99, black, 1628
    Posts
    50
    Thanked: 0

    Rear Speakers......

    Well I finally did it, I finally changed out the rear speakers. I didn't have much of a choice due the fact that the driver rear was badly blown so I will give my mod and some problems that I ran into in this thread since I always see a lot of people asking about it.

    First off Speaker Size. This was a big issue for me since I like to have a bigger driver behind me. Everywhere I looked seemed to say that 4 inchers would fit into the back without any major modification and basically be a plug and play. They were to small for me. I always liked the sound out of a 6.5 way better and it does make a big difference. So out shopping I went. I decided to buy online considering since its always cheaper, but before I bought I went out and looked at the speakers in the store first and checked them out. I had a budget of around $100 and I just wanted a 2-way 6.5 since in my opinion with the seperates up front thats all that you need behind you.

    I mostly used Best-buy.com, Circuit-City, Crutchfield and the manufacturers websites to narrow it down to either Kicker 07DS600 or Polk Audio db 650 after a lot of looking. That was just my choice. They both make very good speakers and when I listened to them it was really hard to tell the difference, but since I had a set of Polk seperates in my Rodeo which I loved and since they were on sale 59.99 on crutchfield I went with them. I paid $68 with shipping and had them in two days since I live NY. Just a note these speakers retailed in Circuit City for over a hundred and after looking around online, the best deal that I found was the Crutch one.

    Now I knew that crutchfield always sent out directions for installation but what I got really did blow me away. They had detailed, with PICS of the VX, instructions for not only removing the dash panel, door panels but also for removing the rear panels where the speakers were going. I have to see if I can scan them for anyone interested in seeing them.

    Now for the disaster. Let me first say this. BUDGET OUT THE WHOLE DAMN DAY FOR THIS! It is a pain in the ***. Also make sure that you have tools on hand. You will need, 2 different size flat head screwdrivers, a panel popper, a philips head, a T-50 torx head driver, Assorted Metric Sockets, Soldering Gun ( I bought a 16 dollar battery operated one at Home Depot that worked great), A set of Tin Snips or some type of Spiral saw, And lastly a power drill.

    Some advice from experience. I recommend removing the seat when doing this. It makes life a lot easier, I did the drivers side without it and it was a pain, so on the other I decided to remove the seat and it went way better. The seat is only 4 bolts, 15 mm socket if I remember right, and if your VX is old like mine it'll give you a chance to vacuum out years old crap from under the seat, so just do it it will give you way more room.

    You need the t-50 torx head for removing the seat bolt anchor. IT IS A PAIN IN THE ***. I bought one that was a socket attachment for like 4 bucks at autozone. Be very careful because if you don't hold it Dead straight it will slip, and to initially break the threadlock requires a lot of force. Also remove the lower seatbelt bolt at the floor, another 15 mm I think it was. DO NOT LOOSE ANY OF THE WASHERS ON EXTRA PIECES. Next remove the Oh Sh*t bar, two phillips screws under the plastic covers, lots little pieces here so be careful.

    Next remove the door jam trim, I think its like 4 or 5 phillips screws. Next remove the pin thats just above your head and the seat belt anchor, Be gentle and don't break it. Theres also one more pin at the top rear of the panel.

    Now start pulling the panel loose, don't be afraid, the little white plastic clips will not be staying on the panel when you pop it by the way, which makes for more of a pain in the *** later, but continue popping working your way from the front top to the rear back. Lastly when you come to the rear of the panel, Midway down on the back edge directly under the little rear window there is a peice that hooks into another spot. When you pull the panel off you will hear the piece pop off. DON"T LOOSE IT. I ddin't even know it was there till I heard it drop off. It is a Brass looking clip. The piece is important because without it your panel will not stay tight to the body when you put it back on.

    Once the panel is off simply position it forward of you so that you can work. The speakers are inside of a housing. ETlsport has the pics of those. There will be two Phillips heads in the front, and two in the rear buried under the next rear panel. I didn't want to remove the rear panel totally so I just popped the front portion of it so that I could get to the screws, just have a nubby screwdriver on hand. There are also 2, 10 mm I think bolts on the speaker housing. Remove all of these and the housing will lift right out. If your just putting back the same size then you shouldn't have to go through all that hassle of removing them, just instead unplug the speaker and remove the four screws holding to the housing. The holes on the new speaker should match up, just be careful of the screw size. (keep reading for + - connections......)

    Now that you have the housing off, remove the speakers and draw a circular outline of the new size opening, I think mine had a circumfrence of like 5.25 inches, and begin to trim. I just used tin snips, took a little longer, but that was all that I had on hand, I know some have used roto-zip etc. Just be careful because the metal does get sharp. Also don't be afraid to cut out the old mounting holes, your gonna make new ones. The housings have just enough material left after trimming out for a 6.5 in speaker, anything bigger than that will require some custom Fab work.

    The Polks like most speakers came with a foam stick on O-ring that I stuck around the hole and then dropped in the speaker. With the Drill I made new holes, mounted it up and went back to the car.

    Before you screw back in the housings, you have to make the connections, + and -, Luckily on the back of the stock speakers you will notice a + on one side. Just remember which wire went to the plus side. If you forgot, you can take the old speaker back over, plug it in and look, the + will be directly under the wire. Mark it, cut and strip. Make your connections, I always solder mine.

    Test out the speaker, if all is working, Put the housings back. Remember to screw back all the screws and bolts! MAKE SURE ALL IS WORKING AND HOUSING IS BACK RIGHT BEFORE GOING FURTHER. you don't want to be pulling the panel all over again for something stupid.

    One other thing that you can do is to clean in the inside steel. Mine was a filfthy after almost 10 years so I wiped it down real quick before I went on.

    Now for putting the panel back. Most of the white plastic clips didn't stay on the panel but remained in the steel of the car. A regular panel popper only worked on two of them, the odd shape of the steel made it impossible to pop the rest. They had to removed by first using a flat head to pry up one side a little, and then lifting and grabbing the center pin from underneath with a small pair of pliers and pulling, This usually did the trick for me without break them, but even if you do I think that they can be bought at pep-boys in such. After you get them all out, reposition them on the door panel, they simply slide into place. Now put the panel back and start from the top and work your way down. I found that it was easier to put back the Oh-Sh*t bars first to hold the panel in place. It takes a few tries to get the holes to line up right but you'll know when you got it, then simply pound the panel into place you'll hear the clips popping into the holes.

    Lastly attach the seat-belt bolts, and the little brass clip that I mentioned earlier. This clip slides onto the plastic piece of the panel, I will try to get a pic of it, but it should be self explanatory when you see. Push that clip back into place.

    Thats pretty much it. I was gonna take pics of the process but I was so damn frustrated In how long it took I didn't. But Etl's pics are pretty good.

    The speakers by the way sound great! But I still need to add a sub. For those of you who want a nice upgrade that isn't that expensive this is the way to go. If you want a little more bang add a sub later which is my next project. More on that later.

    I think that just about covers it, I know this email is rather long, but I tried to get it all in there as a how to, since the one thing that always frustrated me here on some stuff was good how-tos and experiences. So here it is.

    Anyone with questions feel free to ask. I don't check this everyday, but I do check my myspace and real email everyday. Thejerseyfish@aol.com and www.myspace.com/jerseyfish.

    Hope this helps.
    99 Ebony Black
    The Jersey Fish
    East Rockaway NY
    NYPD's Finest

  2. #2
    Member Since
    May 2006
    Location
    2001 Foxfire 1232
    Posts
    234
    Thanked: 0
    I plan to do the same job to mine pretty soon. Not looking forward to it

    Plan to add dynamat or something similar though as long as I have the panels off...

  3. #3
    Member Since
    Mar 2005
    Location
    01 Ebony - #0379
    Posts
    793
    Thanked: 0

    Thumbs up

    aaaahhhh, memories...

    Nice job! But you didn't make it challenging enough - next time schedule the work a few days before Moab!

    I found myself ripping the panels apart after a few weeks as the bulbous speaker terminals began to ground out on the wheel well... Had to stick something stiff and non-conductive between the speker and wheel well.


    As for Dynamat Zorak - be careful if you're doing the floor. I put 2 layers down (and Ensolite) and had a fun time cramming the panels back on as they jammed at the bottom with the extra thickness under the carpet. I also had to cut the mat from around the clip points to get the panels to fasten.

  4. #4
    Member Since
    Aug 2003
    Location
    99, black, 1628
    Posts
    50
    Thanked: 0

    Luckily....

    Yeah luckily no problems with the grounding out. I usually always wrap electrical tape around the connections when I solder them, just to give a little bit extra insurance so that doesn't happen, and in this case I did the same so that I wouldn't be pulling the panels back off.

    As for the Dynamat has it really killed the road noise that much for ya? Thats one thing that I would like to eliminate but its just so damn expensive.

  5. #5
    Member Since
    Mar 2005
    Location
    01 Ebony - #0379
    Posts
    793
    Thanked: 0

    Smile

    Road Noise? What's that?

    I have a performance exhaust and you don't hear road noise, and with a touch of the pedal - I can't hear my wife beside me either .

    I did RAammat and ensolite to try and deaden some exhaust noise. But what it really did was kill vibrations (pounding sub) and silenced the stereo outside the car. I can crank it to the max and just barely hear it outside the car with the doors closed. When I open the doors you can hear it almost a block away.

    I'm sure though with a stock exhaust, a few layers of mat and foam will do a nice job cuting down on road noise.

  6. #6
    Member Since
    Oct 2003
    Location
    2001, Foxfire VX,
    Posts
    43
    Thanked: 0
    I plan on doing this job (modding for rear polk 6.5" speakers) next weekend.

  7. #7
    Member Since
    Jan 2008
    Location
    1999 Astral Silver 0481
    Posts
    2,672
    Thanked: 0

    Arrow

    Quote Originally Posted by Thejerseyfish View Post
    Yeah luckily no problems with the grounding out. I usually always wrap electrical tape around the connections when I solder them, just to give a little bit extra insurance so that doesn't happen, and in this case I did the same so that I wouldn't be pulling the panels back off.

    As for the Dynamat has it really killed the road noise that much for ya? Thats one thing that I would like to eliminate but its just so damn expensive.

    I went thru the same pain as you,but didn't removed the rear bench.

    In regards of the rear 4" speakers what i did was take the two mounts had a body shop widen them so i fitted two 6.5" speakers same as the front.

    By the way there was a mini meet in fort lee today,but we planning to have a big one in july,stay put
    Dakar was just the begining.

  8. #8
    Member Since
    Jan 2005
    Location
    2001, Ebony Black, 1153
    Posts
    2,264
    Thanked: 2
    Quote Originally Posted by Kenny View Post
    aaaahhhh, memories....
    yes great memories, I did this when a hurricane knocked out power in Houston for over a week:
    http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...peaker+install

    Did you take pictures?

  9. #9
    Member Since
    Aug 2008
    Location
    2001, PROTON YELLOW, VehiCROSS, 1451
    Posts
    1,955
    Thanked: 0
    Quote Originally Posted by Gussie2000 View Post
    In regards of the rear 4" speakers what i did was take the two mounts had a body shop widen them so i fitted two 6.5" speakers same as the front.
    x2. Yup, taking the OEM 4" rear speaker mount housings and modifying them to accept a low profile (with shallow magnet) 6.5 speaker is the consensus of most VX owners here on the forum. Fellow member "ROWHARD" has an excellent close-up picture of this mod conversion to rear 6.5's using the OEM rear mounting bracket in his Photo Gallery, Page 10, Picture Entitled: "IMG_00152". Luckily; my factory speakers are fine, so I haven't experienced the PITA you guys have (and hope I never do, as it doesn't sound like fun).

    I concur on the laudable comments about Crutchfield.com. Over the years; I've ordered many car audio speakers for some of my other vehicles from them, and Cructhfield's enclosed step-by-step instructions are pure state-of-the-art with detailed pictures, and pinpoint tool list for each specific car. In addition, Crutchfield's prices are rock bottom in the industry and they always ship-out immediately the same day the order is placed.

    Of special mention-- Crutchfield is famous for their "speaker connector adapters" that simply clip onto the "+" & "-" speaker terminals and then the adapter directly plugs into the OEM factory speaker wiring harness without any splicing, cutting, or soldering whatsoever (these "adapters" are FREE just for the asking when initially ordering your car speakers; however, if you don't ask for them, then you don't get them). The "adapters" are also available for seperate purchase for your specific vehicle from Crutchfield if you already have custody of aftermarket speakers elsewhere. Just FYI.
    Last edited by Riff Raff : 05/23/2011 at 12:22 AM

  10. #10
    Member Since
    Oct 2003
    Location
    2001, Foxfire VX,
    Posts
    43
    Thanked: 0
    Finally did mine... was much needed. http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=14168

  11. #11
    Member Since
    Feb 2010
    Location
    99 silver vx 1144
    Posts
    197
    Thanked: 0
    Just did mine about a month ago, just removed the rear panel left the front alone only took about 3 hrs for both did 6.5" cheap sony's. Worked great but the cheap sony's was a mistake rear driver side is blown again. FML! Yay another weekend project.

  12. #12
    Member Since
    Jun 2002
    Location
    2001, Proton Yellow, #0580
    Posts
    1,887
    Thanked: 5
    Has anyone tried mounting oval speakers in the same location in the rear? Asking because I've got an extra set I'd like to use...
    All of my speakers have bit the dust, so to speak...
    John Eaton
    Original Owner
    2001 Proton Yellow #580
    Atlanta GA

    http://wildtoys.com/vehicross/
    http://vehicross.blogspot.com/

    "Metaphors be with you"

  13. #13
    Member Since
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Former Owner 0216
    Posts
    863
    Thanked: 1
    Just did mine over the weekend. Stayed with the 4" size, but I of course went for a bit more quality than stock. Only $150 including installation at Best Buy and they removed the seat.

  14. #14
    Member Since
    Jul 2011
    Location
    2000 Proton Yellow #0586 CROSSCHECK
    Posts
    288
    Thanked: 0
    I did mine this past Saturday too. Must be the thing to do around this time of year. I went with 6.5" Sony Explodes from walmart. I had them in my Subaru and was pleased enough. Cutting the holes was crazy challenging. I have no shop or anything. Just an apartment countertop and I had to buy a jigsaw....But I got it done.!!!!
    "Therefore we conclude that a man is justified by faith without the deeds of the law. -Romans 3:28

  15. #15
    Member Since
    Nov 2008
    Location
    1999,Astral Silver,VX,1238
    Posts
    269
    Thanked: 0
    Quote Originally Posted by crager34 View Post
    Just did mine over the weekend. Stayed with the 4" size, but I of course went for a bit more quality than stock. Only $150 including installation at Best Buy and they removed the seat.

    What speakers did you get? My rear driver's side just blew yesterday. I've got some Best Buy gift certificates sitting around so $150 with installation sounds good to me!

Similar Threads

  1. Installing new rear speakers is so much fun!
    By Triathlete in forum VX Talk...
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 10/24/2009, 07:36 PM
  2. CD PLAYER & REAR SPEAKERS
    By jamessmith in forum VX Troubleshooting...
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 12/09/2006, 08:37 PM
  3. Rear Speakers
    By Mark B in forum VX Talk...
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 11/16/2006, 12:18 PM
  4. Blown rear speakers....
    By Ebony1433 in forum VX Talk...
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 07/09/2005, 09:38 PM
  5. rear speakers
    By Amack76 in forum VX Modifications...
    Replies: 18
    Last Post: 01/06/2005, 06:38 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
$lv_vb_eventforums_eventdetails