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Thread: LEAKAGE. Do not know wur its coming from

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  1. #1
    Member Since
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    John,

    I see you're back in this mode again. I just wanted to add my .02 in this thread.

    You don't need to tackle the job of repacking your wheel bearings in conjuction with the axle bearings. I'm of the opinion that it's better to do that as a dedicated task at another date.

    Follow the instructions for installing CV boots to the point where you pull the brake assembly out to disengage the CVs from the outer race (green cup). Then follow the instructions from starchild (Isuzu forum) to drop the axle & remove the axle seals & bearings.

    I highly recommend that you get a Pitman arm puller to use when taking apart ball joints rather than a ball joint fork (likely to tear the boot using it). It's readily available at any parts store for about $20.

    I am far from being a mechanic & I got'r done. You can do this. I'll warn you though, my diff drop took me about 20 hrs.

    I'll PM you my cell number in case you need any advice while wrenching (or before).

    Tom
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

    Put a smiley after you say that Bub.

  2. #2
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    The whole problem for me is the time. I would be willing to do this job if I had a 2nd vehicle that I could depend on. This is the kind of detailed fix I would like to have as much time as necissary to leave my VX in the garage and work on.

    Otherwise, I would rather just have a pro shop do it. But then I assume we are talking bux.

    So, with this leak, is it "safe" to just keep periodically checking my front diff fluid level to make sure there is enough juice in there? At least until I have the resources to get this leak fixed? I hate leaking fluid all over the world more than you could imagine, but...

    Bart

  3. #3
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    Bart,

    Absolutely. The oil leak can wait as long as you keep it topped off.

    The only problem is that you will get absolutely no warning that your CV boot is about to tear. Once your boot tears, further driving is not recommended. The boot is just a rubber cup to keep the grease in & the dirt out. If you keep driving tho, you can trash a CV rather quickly (depending on the environment you're in).

    If you have confidence in your boots, wait till you're ready.

    Tom

  4. #4
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    Yeah, I check my boots regularly for any signs of tearing or cracking. I think I have been lucky thus far. I probably should order a set of boots and keep them on hand so when mine do eventually go, I have all the needed stuff to get this repair done quickly.

    Bart

  5. #5
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    Sounds like a plan.

  6. #6
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    I'm a tad confused. Since the Proton was lifted by PO, I have no basis for determining stock from OEM. I'm starting to think that my crossmember is aftermarket (Calmini). Does anyone have a pic of a stock crossmember that I can use for comparison. Or can someone look at the crossmember pix in my gallery & tell me if it's aftermarket?

  7. #7
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    Hi Tom

    Doesnt look like a Calmini Crossmember...at least not like mine!

    I have one fitted ,and its a one piece fabrication with no welded ends.



    Quote Originally Posted by tom4bren View Post
    I'm a tad confused. Since the Proton was lifted by PO, I have no basis for determining stock from OEM. I'm starting to think that my crossmember is aftermarket (Calmini). Does anyone have a pic of a stock crossmember that I can use for comparison. Or can someone look at the crossmember pix in my gallery & tell me if it's aftermarket?

    BTW...while checking my Crossmember...I discovered a newly torn CV boot...

    I'm glad you asked the question!!!


    jo
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