LEAKAGE. Do not know wur its coming from

[etlsport]

keep tuggin away! mine took forever to get off of there.. i used a 1 foot ratchet + about a 2 foot pipe and even then took all sorts of effort.. just make sure u are turning it to the left

[Ascinder]

Give the plug a couple good hits with a 5 lb. hammer to help jar the threads, then put the breaker bar back on the plug and hit the end of the handle with the same hammer. Sometimes things that are threaded get a little stuck/rusted/gooed into place and just need that tender loving whack to convince them to move again.

[JHarris1385]

Will do tonight. Going to order that seal tonight and tackle this job in the morning.

[JHarris1385]

Upon getting that fill nut off the fluid in both the front and the rear the oil was lightly pouring out (which means full right). So far I put just under 2 quarts in the rear with the LSD additive. The manual says 2.3 quarts but it look less than 2.

I did not get to the front fill up yet by the time I post this but I did take pictures of the current state.

[Ascinder]

There's pretty much no doubt about it. That is definitely the oil seal. Don't worry at all about only 2 quarts going into the differential. There is probably still a little(like .3 quarts ) probably in the bottom. It is almost impossible to get out unless you have a professional suction gun with a very flexible tip.

[JHarris1385]

Anyone have any last minute tips or how to's to throw in here?
I am going to tackle or attempt to tackle this job early tomorrow.

[JHarris1385]

Lets just say this story here as turned into a nightmare....Im going to another shop this morning for them to look at this as well.

The oil leakage just stopped after a while and held off for months and now all of a sudden its on overload.

1 question: the pictured ball bearings/holder - I could not find them for purchase at my auto parts store, so I only purchased the inner bearings thus far to take with me to this new mechanic.

[tom4bren]

John,

I see you're back in this mode again. I just wanted to add my .02 in this thread.

You don't need to tackle the job of repacking your wheel bearings in conjuction with the axle bearings. I'm of the opinion that it's better to do that as a dedicated task at another date.

Follow the instructions for installing CV boots to the point where you pull the brake assembly out to disengage the CVs from the outer race (green cup). Then follow the instructions from starchild (Isuzu forum) to drop the axle & remove the axle seals & bearings.

I highly recommend that you get a Pitman arm puller to use when taking apart ball joints rather than a ball joint fork (likely to tear the boot using it). It's readily available at any parts store for about $20.

I am far from being a mechanic & I got'r done. You can do this. I'll warn you though, my diff drop took me about 20 hrs.

I'll PM you my cell number in case you need any advice while wrenching (or before).

Tom

[nfpgasmask]

The whole problem for me is the time. I would be willing to do this job if I had a 2nd vehicle that I could depend on. This is the kind of detailed fix I would like to have as much time as necissary to leave my VX in the garage and work on.

Otherwise, I would rather just have a pro shop do it. But then I assume we are talking bux.

So, with this leak, is it "safe" to just keep periodically checking my front diff fluid level to make sure there is enough juice in there? At least until I have the resources to get this leak fixed? I hate leaking fluid all over the world more than you could imagine, but...

Bart

[tom4bren]

Bart,

Absolutely. The oil leak can wait as long as you keep it topped off.

The only problem is that you will get absolutely no warning that your CV boot is about to tear. Once your boot tears, further driving is not recommended. The boot is just a rubber cup to keep the grease in & the dirt out. If you keep driving tho, you can trash a CV rather quickly (depending on the environment you're in).

If you have confidence in your boots, wait till you're ready.

Tom

[nfpgasmask]

Yeah, I check my boots regularly for any signs of tearing or cracking. I think I have been lucky thus far. I probably should order a set of boots and keep them on hand so when mine do eventually go, I have all the needed stuff to get this repair done quickly.

Bart

[tom4bren]

Sounds like a plan.

[tom4bren]

I'm a tad confused. Since the Proton was lifted by PO, I have no basis for determining stock from OEM. I'm starting to think that my crossmember is aftermarket (Calmini). Does anyone have a pic of a stock crossmember that I can use for comparison. Or can someone look at the crossmember pix in my gallery & tell me if it's aftermarket?

[JoFotoz]

Hi Tom

Doesnt look like a Calmini Crossmember...at least not like mine!

I have one fitted ,and its a one piece fabrication with no welded ends.

I'm a tad confused. Since the Proton was lifted by PO, I have no basis for determining stock from OEM. I'm starting to think that my crossmember is aftermarket (Calmini). Does anyone have a pic of a stock crossmember that I can use for comparison. Or can someone look at the crossmember pix in my gallery & tell me if it's aftermarket?

BTW...while checking my Crossmember...I discovered a newly torn CV boot...

I'm glad you asked the question!!!


jo

[tom4bren]

Joe,

Thanks for checking. LittleBeast indicated that mine is definitely not OEM. The crossmember has 1 1/2" drop brackets installed in those pix so those weld lines are not part of the aftermarket crossmember. Wish I'd taken some pix before install. I should find out this week if the drop brackets will work with the OEM crossmember.

Bummer about the CV boot. Are you next on the diff drop list?

Tom