You should be able to get a torque wrench to rent from most auto parts stores. Like etl said though, you can pick one up for pretty cheap at harbor freight and they work just fine. I personally use a harbor freight wrench, and being a little skeptical about the quality and accuracy took it to my old work out at the Nat'l Guard base and checked it for calibration on our special testers. It performed better than anything else in the competition including craftsman and Snap on. I see what you are saying about the gear oil, but having personally used it I think that Wiki is full of crap. Anyone who has handled gear oil and motor oil can tell you right off that gear oil is heavier, almost the consistency of fresh honey. Also, the operating parameters are different by far if you read the rest of the article. What bolt are you referring to when you say that you cant get it off? Often times a length of pipe over the end of your socket wrench is you friend to loosen things. Another almost essential item is a pair of duckbill pliers for all the cotter pins you'll be dealing with. They make the job so much easier IMHO. You don't need an air compressor for anything on here as I mentioned before. Just make sure the torque wrench you get ahold of has a fairly broad range of settings. Go through the reassembly procedures you will be performing in the manual and see what torques you will be dealing with to get a better idea. DO NOT CONFUSE inch pounds and foot pounds. You can seriously damage things if you do. I think there are very few inch pound torques on the VX anyways. On the nuts you will be taking on and off it is usually the preferred method to start at the lowest torque setting(if there is a torque range) to try and line up the cotter pin hole. If it isn't lining up within the range you either need to add a thin washer to help align it, or feel ballsy enough to just crank down till it lines up. Use new cotter pins, they are cheap.